kawasaki ZZR 1100 - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues - Page 7

check plug leads and caps, and the small resisters inside the caps

It is not necessary to release the alignment adjusters to remove the rear wheel so you need have no fear about that.

The first thing I do is put the bike on the centre stand with an inch thick plank of wood under the stand to give a bit of extra clearance when removing the wheel.

The only tricky thing is having the appropriate tools to undo the axle nut. If you don't have the original tool kit you will need to go and do some shopping for large allen keys.

Now all you have to do is remove the two retaining clips, slacken and remove the axle nut and pull out the axle - it can help to tap this from the nut end with a piece of broom handle or similar, and another pair of hands can be useful as the rear wheel is not light weight and needs a little manoeuvring.

Lift off the chain and hang it on the swinging arm and the wheel can be lifted out. Take care not to rest the wheel on the brake disc!

www.ajcyclesalvage.com - 610 521 6700

think what i would try first is a fuel additive to see if you possible might have gotten a little moisture or dirt in tank , I like sea-foam brand available @ advance auto or other auto stores but i would try this first and see results , black plugs could mean rich mix not enough air or moisture in fuel the latter is easiest to eliminate

small guide Keihin CVKD40

most are on the intake manifold capped by rubber end cap

There are two safety switches that you may need to test. 1) Neutral safety switch- this switch is what tells the bike that it's in neutral and allows the starter to engage. 2) Kickstand safety switch- this switch will not allow the bike to run in gear if the kickstand is down. My initial guess is the neutral safety switch. If the neutral safety switch is bad, then you will not be able to start the bike with the kickstand down because the bike thinks that it's in gear (even if in neutral). This also may explain why the initial intermitent problem of not starting when warm since the metal contacts will expand and possibly not make contact when warmed up. Are you trying to start the bike with the kickstand up or down? If it were the kickstand safety switch, the bike would probably start okay and then die when you put it in gear.

hi there it sounds like the battery connections could be dirty,clean with sand paper ,if does not change check all your wiring connections they could be dirty and check the earth leads to the frame and the fuses.hope this helps

are you sure theres no power?...check with a tester....or is it the fuel pump thats not working??

if the spark is orange it is week. It should be whiteish blue. Pull back the rubber boot on the cap at the wire end. unscrew the cap and remove, cut about 1/8 inch of wire off and screw the cap back on.check again for spark.check all 4 plugs seperatly. take a flat head screw driver and tighten clip inside plug cap were plug goes. NOT TO Tight you can crack the cap. If this does not help you might need a new coil.

do you mean the sump plug ??? to let the oil out when you give it a oil change??...if so its on the sump on the bottom of the engine...

look on colorrite.com for it.........I looked but couldn't find it but sometimes bikes have two different "names"

Hope you find it

keep the tank above minimun level--or u can disconnec a fuse in the accesorie--or u can remove bulb--ur going to need a repair manual for details-sayonara

Bottom of motor there is about a 31/2" round cover with a bolt through the middle thats the filter you may have to remove the exhaust to get to it on your bike

FIRST REMOVE 3 BOLTS ON CLUTCH ACTUATOR FROM LEFT SIDE ON FRONT CHAIN COVER THEN REMOVE4 BOLTS FROM CHAIN COVER WIGGLE BACK AND FORTH WITH PULLING PRESSURE AND IT SHOULD COME OFF

A warped brake disk is usually the cause.

this could be a number of things have a compreshion test done on the engine if its very low say 100 psi or less the starter cant turn the engine over that fast to build up compreshion to start the bike up or it could be just a week starter not turning it over as fast as it should

Here is the fallback method that has always worked for me: have the float arms (that part of the float which attaches the floats to the hinge) parallel to the float bowl gasket surface just as the float valve contacts the float - without depressing the spring loaded tip on the valve. Frankly, I have used float gauge maybe once in my life - this method is much faster and easier.

yes some time u need the rite tools but some times u dont give it a try will only work 1 way

try swaping 1 spacers around

you need to check your tyre and it may also require balancing as it is a big bike.The bearing do not normally cause this but it is a good and safe thing to check it.