kawasaki ZZR 1100 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 7

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For 93-00 Kawasaki ZZR1100, the oil pressure switch wire is blue/red.

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Bottom of motor there is about a 31/2" round cover with a bolt through the middle thats the filter you may have to remove the exhaust to get to it on your bike

could be valve noise valves should be check at regular intervals a chance it may be a wearing cam chain

look on colorrite.com for it.........I looked but couldn't find it but sometimes bikes have two different "names"

Hope you find it

do you mean the sump plug ??? to let the oil out when you give it a oil change??...if so its on the sump on the bottom of the engine...

hi there it sounds like the battery connections could be dirty,clean with sand paper ,if does not change check all your wiring connections they could be dirty and check the earth leads to the frame and the fuses.hope this helps

www.ajcyclesalvage.com - 610 521 6700

if the spark is orange it is week. It should be whiteish blue. Pull back the rubber boot on the cap at the wire end. unscrew the cap and remove, cut about 1/8 inch of wire off and screw the cap back on.check again for spark.check all 4 plugs seperatly. take a flat head screw driver and tighten clip inside plug cap were plug goes. NOT TO Tight you can crack the cap. If this does not help you might need a new coil.

are you sure theres no power?...check with a tester....or is it the fuel pump thats not working??

Only 280.There must be a problem.Try some nitrious or a blower.Clean the air filter and you might need a bigger set of man tonsils:)

this could be a number of things have a compreshion test done on the engine if its very low say 100 psi or less the starter cant turn the engine over that fast to build up compreshion to start the bike up or it could be just a week starter not turning it over as fast as it should

Since your engine has a horizontal split in the crankcase, the top end does not need to be torn down. Yes, a bent shift fork is likely to be the problem. Before going too far, first check the index wheel and spring on the end of the shift drum. The mechanism may be loose and/or the spring broken. If you are lucky, you may not need to split the case.
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keep the tank above minimun level--or u can disconnec a fuse in the accesorie--or u can remove bulb--ur going to need a repair manual for details-sayonara

A warped brake disk is usually the cause.

you need to check your tyre and it may also require balancing as it is a big bike.The bearing do not normally cause this but it is a good and safe thing to check it.

FIRST REMOVE 3 BOLTS ON CLUTCH ACTUATOR FROM LEFT SIDE ON FRONT CHAIN COVER THEN REMOVE4 BOLTS FROM CHAIN COVER WIGGLE BACK AND FORTH WITH PULLING PRESSURE AND IT SHOULD COME OFF

Here is the fallback method that has always worked for me: have the float arms (that part of the float which attaches the floats to the hinge) parallel to the float bowl gasket surface just as the float valve contacts the float - without depressing the spring loaded tip on the valve. Frankly, I have used float gauge maybe once in my life - this method is much faster and easier.

try swaping 1 spacers around

There are two safety switches that you may need to test. 1) Neutral safety switch- this switch is what tells the bike that it's in neutral and allows the starter to engage. 2) Kickstand safety switch- this switch will not allow the bike to run in gear if the kickstand is down. My initial guess is the neutral safety switch. If the neutral safety switch is bad, then you will not be able to start the bike with the kickstand down because the bike thinks that it's in gear (even if in neutral). This also may explain why the initial intermitent problem of not starting when warm since the metal contacts will expand and possibly not make contact when warmed up. Are you trying to start the bike with the kickstand up or down? If it were the kickstand safety switch, the bike would probably start okay and then die when you put it in gear.

the fuse box is under the seat alongside the junction box..