kawasaki ZZR 1100 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 6

I've only dismantled a '96 600 brakes but they looked almost the same as these exploded views. For each piston there are 2 seals. If you look at the seal you will see that they are asymmetrical - looking something like the letter G is cross section. To install them you put the bottom one with the channel down in the groove and the second one with the channel up on the lip - it's there to act mainly as a dust boot, the first one is the actual oil seal.

It is not necessary to release the alignment adjusters to remove the rear wheel so you need have no fear about that.

The first thing I do is put the bike on the centre stand with an inch thick plank of wood under the stand to give a bit of extra clearance when removing the wheel.

The only tricky thing is having the appropriate tools to undo the axle nut. If you don't have the original tool kit you will need to go and do some shopping for large allen keys.

Now all you have to do is remove the two retaining clips, slacken and remove the axle nut and pull out the axle - it can help to tap this from the nut end with a piece of broom handle or similar, and another pair of hands can be useful as the rear wheel is not light weight and needs a little manoeuvring.

Lift off the chain and hang it on the swinging arm and the wheel can be lifted out. Take care not to rest the wheel on the brake disc!

Your motorcycle is about 20 years old. There is normal wear ... This is not a serious condition at this time ... expect it to decline.

You dont say how many miles are on the machine ... and you dont say anything about the maintenance it has received in the past ... and you may not know ... The oil light is on because there is insufficient oil pressure. Pressure is down because of the wear and/or because of the weight of the oil. You dont say how old the oil currently in the engine is.

You may want to use a LITTLE BIT of high mileage engine treatment, insure you follow the manufacturers recommendation concerning oil changes and other maintenance items. Your Kawasaki dealer may have suggestions for you, just ask them.

It obviously sounds like its being starved for fuel, you said that you replaced the pump and the filter, what about the carbs ? has anyone checked them out ?

If the bike has been sitting over the winter and the carbs were not drained or if the fuel wasn't stablized then you might have some dirty carbs, you can try draining the float bowls and then adding fresh fuel see if that helps, if not you'll likely have to pull your carbs and clean then. Todays fuel doesn't las that long before it goes bad.

hiya unfortunatly you have to remove the fuel tank, which means removing the plastic infill and quite a few fixings around upper fairing and such. Have fun.

It shouldnt be any problem.European models wear 180/55/17.

a) new bulb b) remove fasteners between upper and lower fairings so upper fairing can be removed c)remove windshield d) remove mirrors (which hold on upper fairing) e) remove and replace headlight bulb
f) replace everything

try using a line locker close to master cyclinder ,lever should go rock hard if it has no air in system,work line locker down lines to see if lever stays hard.
also check the lever travel to make sure that lever is pushing on master cyclinder plunger as a lot of after market levers dont have correct casting and have to travel in a long way before brakes work even when system is bled. also check to make sure calliper carriers are not bent and pads not sitting square on rotors.
hope this helps

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, charge and load test the battery.

Offhand with a fully charged battery, jump the 2 big terminals of the starter relay. If the starter motor spins, then faulty starter relay.

Good luck and thank you for asking Fixya.

you do it

The regulator is fitted behind the cap on the alternator/generator. It can be done on the bike, but I find it easier to remove the unit from the bike (it is the round unit on the left hand side of the engine. Undo the alternator plug where it joins the main wiring loom. There are three bolts (13mm socket I believe) two at the top, one at the bottom towards the front of the engine. There is a little bit of resistance as the unit comes out as there is an o-ring oil seal around the body of the alternator. Once off, take off the three 8mm nuts and remove the vented cap. The regulator looks like this:
http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://images.wemoto.com/full/REGULATOR_RECTIFIER/10011327.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/Kawasaki/ZZR_1100_ZX_1100_C1-C3/90-92/picture/Regulator/&usg=__dVtymnCcO5oqTkBwhPVA_QcS5CQ=&h=268&w=540&sz=15&hl=en&start=1&itbs=1&tbnid=67t-hktrN73o6M:&tbnh=66&tbnw=132&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dzzr1100%2Bc1%2Bregulator%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG%26tbo%3D1%26gbv%3D2%26tbs%3Disch:1
Hope this helps, Pete.

Probably you best bet is to Google " motorcycle salvage Kawasaki "

oil filter is next to the drain plug underneath ( circular dish with fins and a hex head bolt ) unscrew this and paper filter is inside....and oil level hole is on opposite as most kwaks ( below front sprocket cover and clutch slave cylinder ,

where can i find a geunie parts catalogue for a 93 zzr1100

Have theignition module checked out
That maybe the cause or a bad connection in the connectors to it

When we answer a question you will get an email with a link back to the question you posted. Once you are back you will see the answer.

Use the highest octane gasoline you can find.

If the bike is running great, there will be no "benifits" in changing plugs. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. You can follow that advice or simply fix the bike until it is broken. Same difference. Best wishes, Tombones

Plugs are placed under the air filter housing.You have to remove the fuel tank and the air filter housing....the oil filter located under the engine but you have to remove at least one or the lower fairings

check plug leads and caps, and the small resisters inside the caps