kawasaki KLX 300 - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

check to see if the choke is stuck or the carb could be dirty (gummed up)

You cant check the compression on those bikes due to the compression release on the exhaust cam. 75psi is ok. 64 to 125 psi due to the fluctuation caused by the release mechanism. Please dont say things that aint true. People that need help may tear down a goid engine due to your bad advice.

Hey Bently, sorry, there is no way to do anything to the transmission without tearing the engine down,,, DO NOT ride this atv again ,,you WILL cause more damage to the engine/transmission... It could/possibly be in the drive train...either way - take it to a qualified professional...

if your lucks good. try this. drain your oil. gas may have seep by piston. and the crank case has to much liquid in it. "BINGO" might be your lucky day !!!

sounds like that the piston o-rings are warn out. replace them on the master cylinder and get your self a 12 inch tube and a small glass jar loosen the bleeder valve put the tube on the bleeder valve and the other end in the jar put brake fluid in the jar and put it in the reservoir don't let ether run out and keep moving the brake lever it will get the air out of the lines quicker, repeat this for the other side

Hope this helps. Bob kawasaki hd3 wiring diagram Google Search

take plug out and rotate the motor in gear, place a screw driver in the pot and feel it moveing up n down stop when it hits the top, can use a spanner on the crank nut

G'Day b shrum,
You can download a service manual for the bike here, (click on "free user") I checked the link working fine for now at least. Get a copy for yourself while the link is hot.
The Kawasaki shop manual suggest Engine Oil as SE Class SAE viscosity of 10W40, 10W50, 20W40, 20W50 Is really a subjective thing, use the oil that suits your riding conditions, and climate. 10w40 for lower temps, 20w50 for hotter heavier duty conditions. Thicker oil protects better, thinner oil makes you go faster :)
I suggest using any good quality synthetic oil engineered for motorcycles. The brands here are endless. Chose what you can afford, but always get good quality oil and change it and the oil filter every 1000 k's
regards robotek

That could possible be a drain back tube or vent tube. May also be overflow tube. Follow tube back from carburetor and see where it goes.

Not familiar with this exact model but I have tested other stators. There should be 3 wires of the same color at the connector. This would be a 'Y' wound stator, all 3 are connected to each other. I f you don't have the ohm specs just check for resistance with an ohm meter. All 3 should show continuity to each other no matter what order you test. And, NONE should show continuity to ground. If the stator is removed, ground would be to the iron stator core.

check your throttle cables,may need lubrication,especially near carb linkages,clean &lubricate,no wd-40.

Several possibilities, including, throttle not returning to idle position due to bent or damaged cable from throttle to carburettor.This cable may also need lubricating with light (thin) oil. Idle setting on carb may need reducing. Finding the trouble should not cost a lot if you require someone else to dignose. If you have a work book for your vehicle (recomended), just go through the troubleshooting section for that problem. It could be an easy fix yourself at no cost.

Hi Kieron, you can download the workshop manual here where you can find out how to tension the chain... KLX MANUAL HERE

replace the fuel line , remove tank and remove fuel tap and clean out ! might be a good idear to strip the carb too ! sounds like the bike not used enough and the fuel gone off ! 6mths and fuel is off and only good for cleaning dirt off parts !! P....

Plz Check Full Cable Condition. Sounds Broken From Throttle Handle To Carb

clean the air filter and carburetor and change the spark plug

Dont worry about specs as they are done up as tight as you can do

Often times this is caused due to the line being too old/damaged and needs to be replaced. Also check the condition of the clamps if any on the line to ensure they still smug up. In cases where the bike is fuel injected, their is a pump inside the tank that can have hoses rupture internally. These can be a chore to replace, but with proper tools, and patience they can be done at home.

it sounds like the needle is sticking in the seating area,pull the carby apart agian take the float out and underneath shold be the needle and seat ,if it has a rubber needle end may need to replace if you can not clean it out properly,and check the rubber diagphram on the slide ,you can damage the diagphram buy blowing air into the carby,if that has a rip in it replace the slide cheers

I'm not familiar with all quads and all the kill switch locations. Does it have a tip-over kill switch? Is it working? Is the quad in neutral? Is the neutral light on? Many engines will not spark if the neutral light is not on. Are the headlights off when starting?

How good is your battery? A low battery can kill spark. Test for spark by grounding the threads of the plug against the cylinder. Have a friend kick the bike while you watch for spark. Assuming no spark, then check all the kill switches with an Ohmmeter to be sure each switch is working properly. Sometimes a switch goes bad. Try disconnecting all kill switches then check spark.

Check the wiring harness, even under the gas tank and seat. Are all the connectors clean and with a tight connection? Any abraded wires? Check the ignition switch also. The switch can go bad as well. Are the flywheel coils good > is the battery getting a charge?

Still no spark? If CDI then get it checked.
If points then file or replace them along with a new condensor and reset the gap then time the engine. >> I hope this helps.

Please rate this answer. Thanks trsrhntr!