Question edited for FULL maker and model name.
Question moved to correct category.
When you disconnected the battery, all the information stored in the ECU was lost. It has to learn everything again. The fault light was transient, it came on and went off. You only need to worry if it stays on.
Loss Of Ignition Diagnostic Module Input To PCM is the generic description for the P1356 code, but the manufacturer may have a different description for your model and year vehicle.
P1356 code possible causes
The compensator nut is the part (the nut) that attaches the front sprocket to the motor crank.
When a cylinder of a v-twin fires there is a very strong power pulse.
To keep from shaking the bike and rider apart these pulses have to be
"smoothed" out. Harley does this by NOT solidly attaching the front
sprocket to the engine - they use a "compensating sprocket".
A crank shaft extension, double sprocket, sliding cam, and a stiff
spring together form a "compensating sprocket". When a cylinder fires,
the power stroke is smoothed out by the action of the compensator cam
and springs.
The compensator nut is what holds the compensating sprocket assembly on the crank.
There are a LOT of forces acting on this nut and sometimes the nut
loosens up. A loose compensator nut results in a compensating sprocket
that can move laterally on the crank. A loose compensator nut therefore
is one potential source of engine vibration.
Harley-Davidson issued service bulletin a while back that changed the
procedure for tightening the compensator nut, after a spate of bikes
had problems with this nut working loose.
Check with your local Dealer to get the correct torque spec and procedure for your year bike.
Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:1. Fouled spark plugs.2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.4. Loose connection at the ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.7. Faulty pulse coil.8. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.9. Faulty ignition switch.10. Faulty run/off switch11. Tilt sensor needs a reset.12. Security alarm failing to disarm needs resetFor more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/716354-no-spark-ran-last-week.htmlhttp://www.mediafire.com/file/n32mo9rud2vadf4/2002_Harley_Dyna_Service_Manual.pdf/filehttps://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmchttps://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally
Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Turn Signal Light Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amps causing the battery to be faulty and must be replaced, "AGM" batteries fall into this category more so than lead-acid types, also before diagnosing any turn signal/running light/parking light issue make sure the bulb is good and the light fuse has continuity with a test light. If you have replaced your OEM lights with one or all LED lights you are going to need a load equalizer.
If no turn signals are working the cause could be a faulty turn signal module/flasher or the connector going to it, look for, corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets. Contact spray cleaner is great for removing corrosion.
If your turn signal comes on but takes several seconds before it starts flashing you may have dirty contacts in the turn signal switch/button, the switch needs to be opened up and cleaned also the flasher may be starting to fail. It should be noted that cold weather will only exacerbate the situation especially when temperatures drop down below freezing and the location of the component, turn signal switches on the handlebar are at the mercy of the oncoming freezing 70 mph wind and makes it hard for the contacts to do their job covered in frozen grease/grime
If all four turn signals flash at the same time like hazard lights even though you only pressed one turn signal button then you have a LED light in the circuit and need a load equalizer that can be purchased from any motorcycle parts supplier.
If your speedometer does not function properly it will have to be fixed first because your turn signal module gets the data from the speedometer for normal turn signal function.
If your front turn signals don't work use a test light to check for power and ground at the bulb socket, then start backtracking the wiring through every wire connector to the turn signal switch/button and check for continuity, go all the way back to the fuse if necessary to find the cause of the malfunction.
If your rear turn signals don't work check your rear fender wiring harness connector first, for corroded, broken, loose pins/sockets, power, and good ground, the harness connector is usually located under the seat on the front of the rear fender then keep tracing the wiring look for obvious harness damage caused by the rear tire.
If you still can't find the malfunction backtrack from the rear fender wiring harness connector.
If one side does not work you could have a faulty turn signal switch or module check for continuity.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OIqlT9HNGU8http://www.mediafire.com/file/l8mk1291i3fiprh/2000_Harley_FXD_Servive_Manual.pdf/filehttps://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmchttps://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally
Hi, Anonymous external oil deposits fall into 3 categories:
1. WEEPAGE is the oil that is sweated past gaskets, seals, o-rings, and crankcase seams, it's covered by dry dust and is normal for older engines with lots of miles, no repair is necessary.
2. SEEPAGE is the same as weepage except the deposit is wet and confines itself to a specific area, the repair is optional depending on the owner's cleanliness criteria, the deposit location and the weight of his bag of "DRACHMA"
3. LEAKAGE is the same as seepage except it is enough to drop to the ground leaving a spot. Repair as necessary.
To find the source of your oil leak, start at the point where you see oil and trace its path going up and forward, blowing baby powder from the palm of your hand will help in those difficult to see areas if there is too much oil present then buy a spray can of engine degreaser apply it to the affected area then rinse off with a pressure wand or garden hose, use compressed air to blow off excess water or just let it drip dry, take your bike for a 15-minute ride and check for the leak.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8iISgZYUHXkhttp://www.mediafire.com/file/g3h2vn0nvw3b5wb/2001_Harley_Dyna_Service_Manual.pdf/filehttps://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmchttps://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally
Hi, Anonymous I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision. 1. Bearings---SCREECH---WHINE2. Belts---CHIRP3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ4. Cam Chains---CLICK5. Clutches---CHATTER---GRIND6. Cylinders---PING7. Fairing Panels---WHISTLE8. Fenders---SCRAPE9. Flasher Unit---Beeps10. Fronk Forks---Plunk11. Fuel pumps---WHIRR12. Gears---WHINE13. Head Gasket---HISS14. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP15. Instrument Clusters---BUZZING16. Kick Starter---GRINDS17. Pistons---SLAP18. Power Valves---CLINK---RATTLE19. Radiators---GURGLE20. Rear Chains---RATTLE21. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK22. Relays---CLICK---BUZZ23. Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK24. Shaft Drives---WHIRR25. Shifting Trans---CLUNK26. Solid Lifters---TICK27. Speedometers---bzzz28. Starters---CLICK29. Starter Clutch---GRIND---WHIRR30. Warning Lights---BEEPFor more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below.Good luck and have a wonderful day.https://www.hdforums.com/how-tos/a/harley-davidson-dyna-glide-engine-noise-diagnostic-guide-413949http://www.mediafire.com/file/l8mk1291i3fiprh/2000_Harley_FXD_Servive_Manual.pdf/filehttps://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmchttps://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally
Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. The following is a list of usual suspects that will cause your bike not to turn over.1. Ignition Switch is in the "OFF" position.2. Ignition Switch is faulty.3. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.4. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.5. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.6. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.7. FOB battery low or dead.8. Faulty ignition switch.9. Faulty starter button.10. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch. 11. Security alarm needs a reset.12. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.13. Starter armature or field coils have failed.14. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.15. Faulty ignition relay.16. The electric starter is working but the starter clutch has failed.17. Check for engine trouble codes.For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uR8hBfSsKkkhttp://www.mediafire.com/file/jl8r784mf99v62w/2007+Harley+Dyna+Service+Manual.pdfhttps://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmchttps://ownersmanuals2.com/harley-davidson/wide-glide-2007-owners-manual-66493https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally
Hi, Anonymous I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision. 1. Bearings---SCREECH---WHINE2. Belts---CHIRP3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ4. Cam Chains---CLICK5. Clutches---CHATTER---GRIND6. Cylinders---PING7. Fairing Panels---WHISTLE8. Fenders---SCRAPE9. Flasher Unit---Beeps10. Fronk Forks---Plunk11. Fuel pumps---WHIRR12. Gears---WHINE13. Head Gasket---HISS14. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP15. Instrument Clusters---BUZZING16. Kick Starter---GRINDS17. Pistons---SLAP18. Power Valves---CLINK---RATTLE19. Radiators---GURGLE20. Rear Chains---RATTLE21. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK22. Relays---CLICK---BUZZ23. Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK24. Shaft Drives---WHIRR25. Shifting Trans---CLUNK26. Solid Lifters---TICK27. Speedometers---bzzz28. Starters---CLICK29. Starter Clutch---GRIND---WHIRR30. Warning Lights---BEEPFor more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below.Good luck and have a wonderful day.https://www.hdforums.com/how-tos/a/harley-davidson-dyna-glide-engine-noise-diagnostic-guide-413949http://www.mediafire.com/file/g3h2vn0nvw3b5wb/2001_Harley_Dyna_Service_Manual.pdf/filehttps://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmchttps://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally
