Ducati Motorcycles - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

When your 2016 Ducati X Diavel doesn't start, there are several steps you can take to try and diagnose and resolve the issue. Here are some troubleshooting steps you can follow: 1. Check the battery: Ensure that the battery is charged and in good condition. Check the battery connections to make sure they are secure and clean. If the battery is weak or faulty, consider charging or replacing it. 2. Ignition switch and kill switch: Verify that the ignition switch is turned on and the kill switch is in the "Run" or "On" position. Sometimes, these switches can accidentally get bumped or turned off, preventing the bike from starting. 3. Fuel level and fuel delivery: Confirm that there is enough fuel in the tank. Additionally, check for any clogged fuel filters or fuel lines that may be restricting fuel flow. If necessary, clean or replace these components. 4. Kickstand position: Some motorcycles have a safety feature that prevents the engine from starting if the kickstand is down. Ensure that the kickstand is fully retracted and try starting the bike again. 5. Spark plugs: Examine the spark plugs for any signs of fouling, wear, or damage. If needed, clean or replace the spark plugs according to the manufacturer's specifications. 6. Fuses: Inspect the fuses to see if any have blown. Replace any blown fuses with the appropriate type and rating. 7. Immobilizer system: If your Ducati X Diavel is equipped with an immobilizer system, ensure that the key you are using is programmed correctly and recognized by the system. Consult your owner's manual for specific instructions on the immobilizer system. If the issue persists after these steps, it is recommended to consult a professional Ducati technician or authorized Ducati service center. They will have the expertise and specialized diagnostic equipment to diagnose and resolve the problem with your 2016 Ducati X Diavel.

does it start and run when you jump start it? if so, you probable need a higher cranking battery. sounds like the battery isnt powerfull enough.

Go back to basics to figure this out. An engine needs 3 things to start and run. Air, Fuel and Spark. Remove any one of these and it won't start. Try this. What EXACTLY does it do when you press the start button -Nothing at all or a slow sluggish crank is most likely a flat or bad battery issue. Charge or replace the battery. Cranking at normal speed but not trying to start is possibly a spark supply issue. Test for spark at the plugs and work through the ignition from there. Cranking, coughing and trying but won't idle is commonly a fuel supply issue. Check you actually have fuel in the tank. Yes, I've made that mistake! I've also forgotten to open the fuel valve. Check you are getting fuel to the cylinders. A way to do this is by removing 1 plug wire and cranking the engine for 1 to 2 seconds. Remove the spark plug on that side and sniff it. A working set up and it'll smell of fuel. Refit the plug and the wire and repeat this for the other cylinder. From there work backwards through the fuel system checking the injector, fuel pump and the fuel pipe lines.

you dont --repair problem

Aparts store or dealership. Look on pinterest or utube also

You may likely have to program a new key as it has a chip. The SBB key programmer on Ebay is great for cars but not sure about bikes but perhaps! Make sure your model is available in the indications given by the SBB programmer site on Ebay.

Switch is worn . First take som rubbin alcohol and pour it on the switch. It can bring electrix back to life. But umay hav to buy part on acyclsalvage site or dealership

to check to see if its an electrical problem it the starter button it self find the starter relay take a wrench or a screw driver and make contact between the 2 copper posts that are sticking out from the relay if it turns over than you will know that it is the push button if it doesn't turn over than you know that its the starter. LARRY B

Carburetors could be dirty/blocked. Open throttle and spray carburetor cleaner in them, wait a few minutes, then start. Also spray carburetor cleaner again when revving. Should fix it. Also, try starting with no choke and no throttle. It could be flooding. Clean spark plugs.

You have this posted in the car and truck problem category. Please re-post.

Clearance issues aside, you need the proper mounts. If they make them, they will work, aside from tank clearance issues. If they don't make the proper kit, just don't do it. Handlebars are not something to experiment with when you're traveling down the highway at 60+ mph. Ever had a simple grip come off? Not fun, trust me.

Hey I'm looking for someone that can reboot my dash I have a monster 620 2006 I live in Harlem

You'll get a lot of opinions on what tire pressure to run but the correct tire pressure for you is not a matter of polling other rider's opinion. Here are the basics you'll need to decide for yourself. Start with the BIKE (not the tire *see below) manufacturer's recommendation in the owners manual or under-seat sticker. This is the number they consider to be the best balance between handling grip and tire wear. Further if you're running alloy wheels on poor pavement, consider adding 2 psi to the recommended tire pressure just to reduce the likelihood of pothole damage. Just as you would for a car, increase the pressure 2 psi or so for sustained high speed operation (or 2-up riding) to reduce rolling friction and casing flexing. Check your tire pressure regularly, as they say. In order to get optimum handling a tire has to get to its optimum temperature which is different for each brand of tire. Unless you own a tire pyrometer that will measure tire temperature directly, you’ll need to measure it indirectly by checking tire pressure since tire pressure increases with tire temperature. Tire temperature is important to know because too much flexing of the casing of an under-inflated tire for a given riding style and road will result in overheating resulting in less than optimum grip. Over-pressurizing a tire will reduce casing flexing and prevent the tire from getting up to the optimum operating temperature and performance again suffers. Sliding and spinning the tires also increase tire temperatures from friction heating. A technique for those wanting to get the most out of their tires on the street is to use the 10/20% rule. First check the tire pressure when the tire is cold. Then take a ride on your favorite twisty piece of road. Then, measure the tire pressure immediately after stopping. If the pressure has risen less than 10% on the front or 20% on the rear, the rider should remove air from the tire. So for example, starting at a front tire pressure of 32.5 psi should bring you up to 36 psi hot. Once you obtain this pressure increase for a given rider, bike, tire, road and road temperature combination, check the tire pressure again while cold and record it for future reference. Each manufacturer is different. Each tire model is different. A tire design that runs cooler needs to run a lower pressure (2-3 psi front) to get up to optimum temperature. The rear tire runs hotter than the front tire, road and track. So the rear tire cold-to-hot increase is greater. Dropping air pressure has the additional side effect of scrubbing more rubber area. When I used the tire pressures recommended by Ducati (32.5F/36R) for my 916 on my favorite road, I got exactly 10/20% on a set of Bridgestone BT-012SS. So I guess I'm an average rider and the BT-012SS runs at an average operating temperature compared to other brands. For the track you'll have to drop the cold tire pressures an additional 10/20%. Track operation will get tires hotter (increasing the cold-to-hot pressure range) so starting at say 32/30 psi now should bring you up to the same temperature (and pressure) that 35/39 psi gave you for the street. Don't even think about running these low track cold pressures on the street. Finally, dropping tire pressures on street tires for track use has its limitations, so street compound tires on the track often get too hot and go beyond sticky to greasy. That's why you have race tires. Race tire compounds are designed for severe operation at these higher temperatures for a limited number of thermal cycles. On the other hand, a race tire on the street usually won't get up to the appropriate temperature for good performance. At street speeds, the race compound often won't perform as well as a street tire. Finally, a tire that is inflated to a lower pressure than recommended will have a tire profile that will sag slightly in the middle. This sagging profile results in increased rolling friction and causes the tires to run hotter. This will reduce tire life but it will also increase tire traction or grip. Depending upon racing conditions and the overall setup of the bike the increased grip may be necessary to be competitive even at the cost of tire life. * Tire Manufacturer's Recommendations Japanese sportbikes seem to have an extra 4-6 psi specified for their tires, compared to the equivalent Ducati. Why? A tire manufacturer will recommend a pressure that is a balance between tire life and grip. When a bike manufacturer is developing a new model their test riders will determine what pressures in their opinion, best suit the new model. The recommended pressures are the best for general street (not track) riding, so you can increase grip somewhat by reducing pressures. But to answer the question about higher recommended tire pressures for Japanese in-line fours versus Ducati twins - in-line fours heat up their tires more than a twin so a higher starting pressure is needed to prevent overheating the tires, particularly the rear tire. Years ago, superbike racers discovered that it was easier to modulate the power to prevent wheelspin on the Ducati V-twins than it was to do the same on the Japanese inline-fours. This is because there is a longer interval (in terms of both time and crankshaft rotation) between cylinders firing, which gives the rear tire a break - time to recover traction and match its speed to that of the motorcycle. More recently, more sophisticated traction control systems have been tried to reduce tire temperatures, improve tire life and lap times,,,

Change the spark plugs and it should work good

If you have a dealer near by, go and measure the 2 bikes frame size. I think that would be the only difference. The 800 might have a bigger frame in pipe diameter size, The bolt pattern should be the same, but I don't know for sure. I have a 99 750 and 02 S4 and the difference in frame size is unbelievable. I think the 620 was built along the lines of the 400 frame, and the 750/ 800 was in a class all by itself. Then the 900's were another size up. Ask a mechanic at the dealer. They should know this stuff. Or call one up and bug them. I do it all the time. Hope this helps.

Is this a how too or what hose to buy ?

Find out with your meter where the high amp draw is coming from and why.

The turn- bank sensor may think you have wrecked or just tipped over the bike. It may need to be replaced. Have you had to lay it down lately? Usually they reset after being turned on again after a lay down. It might not be resetting. Good Luck with that one.

Page 124, 127 and 128 of manual electrical diagram Looks like power from battery goes from battery to ABS fuse and then to ABS ECU https://s.productreview.com.au/products/manuals/153785_563aec7e6df9f.pdf Manual may provide some help. I do see a method of disabling abs but it resets every time you restart.

Manufacturer Spark Plug Gap A spark plug part number might fit hundreds of engines and although the factory will typically set a gap to a pre-selected setting this gap may not be optimum for your particular engine and may not take into account modifications that you may have made to the engine. Spark Plug Gap – Bigger is Better The larger the spark kernel that is generated by a spark jumping the electrode gap, the more likely and complete the fuel burn will be, and the smoother the engine will run. That is, the larger the spark gap that’s exposed to the air/fuel mixture, the easier it is to initiate combustion. This translates directly into improved throttle response. So, the larger the plug gap you can run (without misfires) the better. Unfortunately, the greater the plug gap, the higher the voltage requirement to jump the gap. The difficulty lies in that, any added gap creates more strain on the other ignition parts. Coils, for example, may not have enough stored energy to cross the gap, creating a misfire. Old plug wire insulation can break down at the higher voltages required to fire a larger gap. The stock Ducati coils are good enough to fire a 0.044-inch plug gap. Any gap larger than this will likely result in more misfires (there’s always a few) and subsequent power loss. The correct new plug gap is specified at about 0.024-inch (0.6mm). But, remember, as a plug wears, the gap opens up further. If you use conventional sparkplugs, start with the recommended gap and try opening the gap up in 0.002-inch increments. You should note a progressively smoother throttle response if not more power. When the bike begins to lose power, go back 0.001 - 0.002 inch and this will be your optimum gap. I don't know offhand what the DCPR8E plug comes pre-gapped at but as a good rule-of-thumb, if you go more than 0.008 inch over the out-of-the-box gap you won’t maintain parallel surfaces between ground and the center electrodes. So if you reach that point, change to a plug that starts at a larger gap. The NGK dash 9 series starts at a 0.9mm (0.035-inch) gap, and is used for that reason. If you run iridium or platinum electrode plugs, start with the 0.035-inch gap that they are shipped with. Don't run them at smaller gaps or you'll loose throttle response. If you have a older bike, you may arc over the plug wires before you can reach the optimum plug gap. If the spark plug wires have inadequate insulation, the wire cannot maintain a high enough voltage across the insulation and will arc to ground before firing the plug gap. The factory spark plug leads are stranded wire covered with an EPDM jacket and although the wire itself will last a long time, the jacket will start to break down after a couple of years which is why most good aftermarket wire is insulated with silicone rubber. If this is the case, replace the stock spark plug wires with a set of Magnecor or similar quality wires. This will allow running a larger plug gap without a concern for insulating the higher voltage needed to jump the gap. Ducati 916 Magnecor #2549 wires, for example, run $67. Ignition Amplifiers Running a larger gap is the main benefit of installing an ignition amplifier, such as the one sold by Evoluzione for Ducati's. The Evoluzione ignition amplifier increases the primary voltage to the stock Ducati coil from the existing battery voltage to either 16 volt or 18 volt (user selectable). A higher primary voltage means you get a higher secondary voltage applied to the wires and plugs. The higher the secondary voltage - the larger gap it will jump across. Evoluzione recommends that for best throttle response, you run a 0.060 inch plug gap. One reservation that I have about ignition amplifiers as a group is that they could possibly cause overheating and eventual failure of the stock coils or wires. This reliability consideration has to be balanced against improved performance. An independent test by Road Racing World magazine on a GSXR 1000 saw only about a 0.2 HP improvement, but throttle response is the major benefit.,,,