All questions in Cars and Trucks need 'year make model' please.But this could be a generator, chainsaw, leaf blower or mower in which case 'make model (what is is).On a vehicle, remove sparkplugs and try and turn the engine by hand using the big nut on the crankshaft pulley. Broken timing chain or belt and the piston is hitting the open valves. However, NO cars have a starter that has a belt, they are gear driven...
in what country is this truck. 25,950 GVW (sized)
the service manuals are by country, and VIN code
the dealer sells service manuals. buy one.
most trucks and cars, 99%
open the glove box
remove users guide
open index page
see the word FUSE or Relay.
most times the relay is near the fuse. can be.
Did you scan the OBD2 port for errors first. (we do it first)
the check fuses.
then hunt Relays if it has one at all.
if you read the lids it tells the names
in all these places
https://youtu.be/TuovjweoA14
the manual also says some countries, there is no horn at all.
(the manual say where found)
clearly
or it has AIR Horn OPTION, listed in the manual too.
says too, under options steering wheel without horn option.
yeah.
my guess is , the fuse and relay are part of the Horn kits
I see them listed in the parts pages.
best is buy the book, or search for relays all over the truck
as the video shows.
You need to determine where the noise is coming from. Check your power steering fluid and make sure it is full. Remove your serpentine belt and see if the noise goes away, That will let you know if it is coming from the engine or an accessory or pulley bearing. If the noise goes away whith the belt removed, check the alternator bearing and pulley bearings. If the noise is still there whith the belt removed, that means it is either in the engine or transmission.
Some potential solutions:
EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation): You mentioned that you cleaned the EGR, but it's still showing as a fault. The EGR system recirculates exhaust gases back into the intake manifold to reduce emissions. If the EGR valve is malfunctioning or clogged, it can affect engine performance.
Here are some steps to consider:
Check for Vacuum Leaks: Inspect the vacuum lines connected to the EGR valve for leaks or cracks. A vacuum leak can disrupt EGR operation.
Test the EGR Valve: Use a vacuum pump to check if the EGR valve opens and closes properly. If it doesn't, consider replacing it.
Clean the Intake Manifold: Sometimes carbon buildup in the intake manifold can affect EGR flow. Clean the intake manifold thoroughly.
Thermostat: You've already replaced the thermostat, which is good. A faulty thermostat can cause overheating or poor engine performance. Make sure the new thermostat is functioning correctly.
System Voltage Low: This could be related to the charging system (alternator, battery, or wiring).
Here are some steps to troubleshoot:
Check Battery Voltage: Measure the battery voltage when the engine is off and when it's running. It should be around 12.6V when off and around 13.8-14.4V when running.
Inspect Alternator: Ensure the alternator is charging properly. If it's not, consider replacing it.
Check Grounds and Wiring: Loose or corroded connections can cause voltage issues. Inspect battery terminals, ground connections, and wiring.
Idle Issues: If the engine won't idle properly, consider the following:
Idle Air Control Valve (IACV): The IACV controls idle speed. Clean or replace it if necessary.
Throttle Body Cleaning: A dirty throttle body can affect idle quality. Clean it using throttle body cleaner.
Vacuum Leaks: Check for vacuum leaks around the intake manifold, hoses, and gaskets.
Timing Chain: The B12D1 engine uses a timing chain. However, if it's stretched or worn, it can cause issues like poor performance or stalling. Consider having the timing chain inspected and replaced if needed.
Remember that diagnosing engine issues can be complex, and it's often best to consult a professional mechanic or use diagnostic tools.
An engine misfire is unlikely to cause that scenario. You need to know what the codes are, but there is more to this. A professional scan tool computer can diagnose the reason. A small hand held scanner is not enough. The pro version can record what happens to make it turn off.
https://www.google.com/search?q=auto+electrician+near+me
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There is an oil seal at this area that delivers the rotational power of the engine to the transmission. There is an additive that you can add to your oil that can help to regenerate the oil seals by softening them up. I am guessing the shady mechanic did this rather than replacing it.
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Question edited for clarity.
The most common cause of the P0720 code and its related codes is usually a defective or damaged output or input speed sensor. Sometimes, corroded wiring causes the code to set, as well as loose connectors surrounding either sensor.
the spark plug tips will look , LIKE A HORRORon the offender cylinder. there is one good sign and USA ? car, the OBD2 scans show the leaking cylinders are gross misfire DTC error P030x where tells witch cylinder is getting wet. (called misfire)the bank leaking OBD2 fuel trim way off the scale. radiator leak down test Fails. (a tool with same name) first off the gasket would have to be a double failure to leak to intake runners, water side to air side there are 2 parts, here the plastic top and aluminum main bottom intake manifold. evidence 2 if the gasket leaks below the HLA Lifter area gets wet . and the engine oil looks just like chocolate milk shake. nasty oil , MILKY for sure. if the wet ports fail water hits the pan too. also is not the upper plastic side, dry. and only bottom is coolant wet. see my threat vector photoas you can se , it be a double failure of the gasketif sucking oil see white smoke at tail pipe endor see steam from water (coolant burned) same place.
If you're experiencing issues with the cooling fan relay in your 1998 Plymouth Voyager, there could be several reasons behind it. The cooling fan relay is responsible for controlling the operation of the cooling fan, which helps regulate the engine temperature by dissipating heat.
Here are some common reasons why the cooling fan relay might be causing problems:
Relay Failure: Over time, relays can wear out or become damaged due to electrical faults or excessive heat. If the cooling fan relay has failed, it may not properly engage the cooling fan when needed, leading to overheating.
Electrical Issues: Faulty wiring or connections can disrupt the flow of electricity to the cooling fan relay, preventing it from functioning correctly. Inspect the wiring harness and connections for any signs of damage or corrosion.
Temperature Sensor Malfunction: The cooling fan relay is often triggered by signals from the engine's temperature sensor. If the sensor is faulty or sending incorrect signals, it may not activate the cooling fan relay when necessary.
Faulty Cooling Fan Motor: If the cooling fan motor itself is defective or worn out, it may not respond to signals from the relay, even if the relay is functioning correctly. Check the cooling fan motor for any signs of damage or wear.
Blown Fuse: In some cases, a blown fuse can cause the cooling fan relay to malfunction. Check the fuse box for any blown fuses related to the cooling fan system and replace them if necessary.
To diagnose the exact cause of the issue, you may need to perform some electrical tests or consult a mechanic with experience in automotive electrical systems. They can use diagnostic tools to pinpoint the problem and recommend the appropriate repairs or replacements.
post all things that fail and work both
all maters
engine starts , runs , drives ok ,day or night?
all other electrical things on the car ,as in ALL do in fact work correctly?
or just the RADIO on the car fails.
many cars now the RADIO is part of the CAN , the car Area Network. and if that fails so does the RADIO.
if is in fact a factory RADIO there from MB.
what to do.
well
check all fuses first. never skip the easy first step and a 50cent cure..
next scan the USA? OBD2 scan port, and look for Radio errors
like COMM failures codes.
can I assume this RADIO is not SDAR , satelite radio
if is did you path the subscription bills? $$$$$$
or
the RD is base Radio and both are in fact CAN bus controlled
so yes, it must be scanned first, after fuses
sorry this is no simple 80s radio, not at all
and is antitheft protected too.
i request this post be moved to cars and not computers.
here is more than 1 fuse, the RD shows 2, F1 and F2
my online docs, are not so good, on all MB.
get the car scanned in any shop.
see the DTC error codes. next.
Start with the silly, obvious things first. Check the coils packs are the correct ones and are seated correctly. Check the wiring connectors are also seated correctly.
Have you checked for spark on all of the coils? This will test to see if it is the coils themselves or further back in the ignition system. Have you had the vehicle scanned for OBD trouble codes? This will help find out if it's a sensor causing the issue.
Next you need to check for voltage going to the coil packs. Check them all to make sure it isn't just one or two causing the issue. After this I would suggest getting a good Auto electrician to look at it as it could be an issue inside the vehicle's electronics.
As long as the trunk is open, It won't work. The top has it's own computer. Have the codes read. Takes a scanner. These have like 20 sensors and switches for the top and trunk. You can try to close the latch on the trunk with a screwdriver to get it to work. Another thing is there is a cover that pulls out . This has to be pulled out and latched in place. This will keep it from working also.
