Toyota RAV4 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 7

Confirm that you have power reaching the motor windings. If positive, then the anomaly is centered around the motor.

The relay is the ECM relay and it's in the fuse relay center under the hood near the battery. there is an EFI fuse alson and then theirs two more fuses after the relay ones fuel pump the other ECM. If the check engine light doesn't come on with the key the relay or the ECM fuse is blown if only the fuel pump does'nt work then the fuel pump fuse is blown or the fuel pump is bad.

check fuel pressure. change fuel filter. Replace pump if necessary

There is a ground wire on the back of the dash cluster that may be broken, you'll have to remove the dash cluster (phillips screwdriver and tabs) and check it with a multimeter. ( 0 ohms from a known good ground is perfect).

The battery itself isn't holding a charge or the car won't start? It is easy to see if the battery is dead with a simple voltage meter at any auto parts store. Most RAV4s need a new battery after about 8 years on the road in my experience. If the battery still has a charge but the car won't start, you have a problem with the cables from the battery to the starter.

CV joint - wheel side needs to be replaced :) right wheel, a lot of people drive like that for a while before they fix it so don't worry, also it shouldn't be soooo expensive

try the owner manual.

You can take it back to the dealer, and have them change the battery, or go to Autozone, buy the battery and do it yourself. They can show you how to do it. And which battery it takes. It's not hard to do. Good luck.

1) PO123 IS TPS throttle position sensor. this problem mean adjust in the voltage see the diagram use the VOM, in other model is self calibration by BCM.2)P0504 SWITCH brake.

Check fan relay

follow exhaust under vehicle and after the cat conveter will see what looks like a spark plug in the exhaust tube with wires and corrector thats the one you want

Where is the reverse switch located on Toyota rav4

WORLD STANDARD AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID -- TC010-07 June 28, 2007

Page 2 of 2

S 100,000 Maintenance Interval - Inspection only; ATF-WS does NOT require any

flushing or changing during the life of the vehicle.

S The use of Genuine Toyota ATF-WS is recommended.

S The use of additives or aftermarket fluids that are considered compatible

or substitutes may result in shift concerns and damage to the internal

transmission components.

S ATF-WS is NOT compatible with T-IV or Dexron ATF.

S Containers storing Toyota ATF-WS should always be sealed - If exposed to the

atmosphere, ATF-WS may absorb moisture and potentially cause shift concerns if

used in operation.

S One time use only.

S When performing repairs on ATF-WS equipped transaxles, it is important to use

only new, clean ATF--WS when refilling the ATM.

S ATF-WS equipped ATMs may use the overflow type procedure - Any fluid

drained from the overflow plug should be discarded following proper local

regulations and never reused. Failure to do so could result in shift concerns and

damage to the internal transmission components.

Important
Information

Here's what the codes mean:
P1135 Air/Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P1155 Air/Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit. (Bank 1 Sensor 2

This is mainly related to the oxygen sensors. It maybe the sensors themselves or an open wire going to te sensors. They are mainly located on the exhaust pipe. One before and on after the catalytic converter.

My Rav4 did the same thing and I am posting all over the forums what fixed mine. It was a bad fuse! It was a 10amp fuse that had gone bad on my 2001 rav4 base model 2.0 2x4. I hope this helps someone before they spend too much!

possible the way to go is to have the fault codes read to see if any transmission sensors have failed