2004 Honda Odyssey: Rear window (vent type)is stuck open. Is there a way to close it manually, then disable it so it can't be opened again? I REALLY need to know how to get it closed before it rains tomorrow.

I have a relatively simple, permanent, safe inexpensive fix I developed for the rear window problems with the Honda Odyssey in an easy to follow .pdf document with step by step pictures. How can I post this to you. I don't want to manually email this document over and over. Thanks.

I have 2001 Odyssey with same problem...assuming the system hasn't changed too much to the '04... Quick Solution: The window cannot be manually forced shut due to the worm-drive gear system...pushing on the window will likely make the problem worse due to binding the worm-gear. My suspicion is allowing the van to cool in the shade may allow you to get the windows shut in an emergency. Long Analysis: I found, after tearing it all apart AND splitting open (bonded shut) the gearbox/motor assembly that there appears (it is visible in the inside of the connector bonded into the metal prong) to be a protection 'element' (a variable resistor which measured a low of ~15ohms to >40ohms right after trying to run the stalled motor for a bit, as the element would sit, the resistance would slowly drop) in series in the end-cap/connector that plugs onto the end of the electric drive motor power prongs. This is not the plug that stays attached to the power wires. If the connector is removed and 12V power is applied directly to the motor power prongs, it drives the gear box no problem. The 'element' appears to increase in resistance as the motor runs (or tries to, presumably heating up the 'element'), thus providing a simple stall protection current limiter. Unfortunately, when I had it apart, I didn't think to confirm the heat sensitivity by observing the resistance while I force heated/cooled the element. Anyway, the problem seems to be that either the resistance is going up too quickly due to element aging/failing (or the nominal resistance has gone up, I don't know what its supposed to be) or the motor may be getting weak enough with age that the same amount of drive voltage no longer generates enough torque. Being unable to immediately find a replacement for this end-cap/connector (which I assume is the problem), I TEMPORARILY shorted out the protection element, now there is NO protection from burning out the motor if the switch is held while driving against the stop or the motor otherwise stalls. I am NOT recommending this as a solution...if you bypass or otherwise alter the stall protection element, you do it at your own risk as it could burn up the motor, the wiring or worse, cause a vehicle fire! This is simply my analysis of the problem for your information. Honda will only sell the entire assembly for >$100. If anyone knows where I could find a replacement end cap/connector for this, I'd love to hear about it. I don't know if its a separate part or part of the motor which says Johnson on it. I checked Johnson motors website, but have not been able find a similar motor or end cap/connector. The only number I could see on the connector was 320-0.

Try this: turn the window master switch off for about 30 seconds then turn it back on and immediately operate the rear window switch. The window may move some and then stop. Repeat until you can get the window closed. It worked for me.

Another method I've seen is with ignition off, pull no. 13 fuse on passenger side fuse box for ten seconds then replace. This "resets" the car's computer (and also the clock). Apparently this has worked for some people. I don't like to use it because then you must do the "idle learn" procedure for the car's computer to be normalized.

And that procedure is: Make sure all electrical items are off. Start engine and rev to 3,000 rpm (in park or neutral) until radiator fan comes on or coolant warms to 194F (normal range=thermostat open). Then let the engine idle for at least 5 minutes with no load. If the radiator fan comes on during this time, the fan on time must be subtracted from the 5 minutes. This lets the computer learn what a no load idle situation is and it will remember this when making idle adjustments for electrical loads being on.

To temporarily disable and keep close the rear vent window, remove the plastic cover that is attached to the glass and you will see a screw and you may remove it. Then remove the locking pin located close to the screw with a flat screw driver. You will notice a ball-and -joint looking portion after removing the pin. After separating the two, save the screw and pin by putting it back the way you remove it and tape the glass tight back to prevent it from rattling while driving and the rain also from getting in. Honda will replace it for $285+tax. They said there is a motor problem.

My sister just got the same model and both of her's are very very weak or don't work at all. I blame the problem on that there is no limit switch like I've seen on other mini vans or SUVs. A limit switch stops the motor from operation when the arm reaches it's outer or inner most position. If you can hear the click, the solenoid switch is receiving a signal and is working. It signals the motor to operate. It sounds like the motor is burn out or bad.
Let's say you go to close the vent window and traffic is crazy, the kids are yelling. Then you realize you had been pushing the vent window buttons down for the last Min and a half due to the craziness. You were frying the motor and din't know it. Or you opened it while driving and couldn't really tell if it was completely open,, Again the same thing. Motor was getting super hot. It doesn't take long to burn any electric motor out with it in a bind. This is were a limit switch comes in to play. It would have stopped the motor and help save it's life.
On top of all this it could also be a poor design of the motor. Very easy to change with a few skills. Hope this helps.

We also have this same problem with our Honda Odyssey that we bought used last week.  It sounds like Honda screwed up on their rear vent windows.

Here is a link to the document: http://ifixit-documents.s3.amazonaws.com/ptZoYsnRXHL4TNJP.pdf

Look at this and see if you want to try it.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Honda-Odyssey-Rear-Window-Motor-Repair/

Yes, the heat resistor element is the culprit. It is within the gear assembly, attached to the motor (you have to remove the electric motor within the assembly, and pull the prong that is inside the motor). If you google "Honda Odyssey Rear Window Motor" you'll find a "how to" solution that includes using a light bulb to replace the resistor (sounds wierd, but it does work). The quick fix is to short out the resistor, but I wouldnt recommend that as a long term fix as you may accidentally burn out the motors.