According to a book, I don't know, but my rule of thumb is to put red loctite (Loctite 277) on all bolts for flywheel or anything ataching to the crank that I don't want comming off. Then again I work on diesel applications so my rule of thumb for auto could be off base. One thing though, when using loctite you take the dry torque spec of the bolt and multiply by 75% or 0.75 and that is your new torque spec. also anything touching a crankshaft or camshaft i would sugest using new bolt and or nuts.
SOURCE: broken crankshaft pulley bolt on
The only possibility I can suggest is that which is called and 'Easyout.' These are available at parts stores and come (normally) with a sized drill and a special bit with left-hand threads.
First a hole is drilled with the provided drill bit, then the removal bit is screwed into the new hole and turned counter-clockwise which further inserts the removal bit and, if the removal bit does not snap, the broken threaded shank should back out.
I would suggest soaking the broken part with penetrating lubricant first and allowing it time to seep into the threads of the broken bolt.
SOURCE: inner crankshaft pulley moves 1/4 '' in and out
i think you need a new harmonic balancer. good luck.
SOURCE: 1998 Saturn SL idler pulley broke off and bolt is stuck in engine
The idler pully can be removed without removing the engine. I have replaced mine in my 97 SL2. As to the bolt breaking off, that is strange. I assume that if the bolt broke off, then the idler pully also fell off. If I remember, the space is somewhat limited, so getting a removal tool in there could be very difficult, especially if the bolt is flush with the mounting hole. That doesn't sound like a fun project. If bolt protrudes, maybe you can get some vise-grips on it and turn it out.
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