Question about 2001 Chevrolet Silverado

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Rotated & balanced tires. new driveshaft & center carrier bearing u-joints new shocks front & rear replaced rear axle bearings and seals new left rear rotor parking brake shoes new disc brake pads all of this looking for vibration 45mph on in rear also had driveshaft balanced,what esle could itbe

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You will need to check things logically. Run the truck in the air and note where the vibration is at. Take the wheels OFF and put a few lug nuts to hold the rotors on, take the truck to 45mph or whatever the vibration is the worst. is it still there? if its gone, check wheels/ tires. if its still there, check rotors, axles. A drive shaft will make a rapid vibration at low speeds since it turns 3 to 4 times faster than the wheels. does it vibrate on or off the gas? Can you power through the vibration like go 60 and then coast back through? You have replaced a lot of parts that would not cause vibrations. Are you just changing parts willy nilly or is someone actually checking and verifying that these parts really bad?

Posted on Aug 26, 2011

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1 Answer

I have a 2006 honda ridgeline that has a shimmy at highway speed only starts at 73 74 and does not stop.


Is there any evidenced or knowledge of this vehicle having been in an accident? It's possible that a half shaft is bent (although seemingly unlikely) or maybe the carrier bearing for the driveshaft is bad.

If none of the parts you replaced made a difference, I'd be considering bearings. Is the shimmy felt mostly in the body of the vehicle or in the steering wheel? If mostly in the body, the issue is probably related to the rear axle. If the steering wheel shakes, the issue is likely related to the front axle.

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Could be carrier bearing(s), worn gears, or bad driveshaft joints.

Jul 18, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

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Carrier baring


1) Flat level surface, chock the front tires.

2) Jack the rear up just until the tires clear.
USE jack stands. (DO NOT EVER just depend on a jack)

3) Remove the rear bolts holding the rear U-joint in.
Carefully use a tool to pry one of the U-joint cups, until the U-joint comes loose. DO NOT drop the cups off. Keep one hand wrapped around the cups as you pry the U-joint loose.

When U-joint is removed, suggest use black plastic electrical tape, and tape across the two cups, so they do not drop off.

[GOOD time to see if they are dry, and the U-joint is in good condition. DO NOT loose needle bearings ]

4) Remove the bolts that hold the Carrier Bearing Support to frame.
(Put the nuts back on a few threads of the bolts, after putting them back through the holes, in the Carrier Bearing Support strap. This way you won\'t lose them)

Lay the Support strap, and rubber aside.

5) Slide the driveshaft out of the back of the tranny. (Transmission)
It would be a real good idea to go to an auto parts store first, and rent a plug tool for the back of the tranny, once you remove the driveshaft. Keeps the tranny fluid from leaking out. Manual or automatic. (It is plastic, and a cheap rental)

The rear half-driveshaft slips out of the front one.
BEFORE removing make a mark on the front half-driveshaft, and a matching mark on the rear half-driveshaft. The driveshaft is a Balanced unit. Should be put back together the same way, it was taken apart.

Take the driveshaft with the carrier bearing on it to a shop, so they can press the old one off, and the new one on.

Reverse your steps.

(Owner of 1994 GMC Sonoma 2-wheel drive, extended cab. Civilian mechanic on Army base. Work on ALL wheeled vehicles, and track up to, but not including, Abrams M1A2 tank )

Regards,
joecoolvette

Dec 17, 2012 | 1991 GMC Sonoma

1 Answer

We took our 05 equinox to the shop for rear wheel bearing replacements, the owner of the shop called and said the center carrier bearing was really really bad and he could replace it. We said ok to the...


That work should ONLY be done by a
Drive Shaft Specialty Shop ,that repairs
& balances lots of things,not just driveshafts

I will agree with you, as I don't know

But a dealer will sell you the whole deal,
so I never recommend them for even a car wash

There may be,just saying,don't know, a very few that
can't be repaired.

I would pick it up & personally take it to a driveshaft
shop & not pay anything for that part of the work
agreed to.

I never had those issues when i had my trans shop,
because I followed my rules & I was a machinist
before, so there isn't much I can't do

Flywheel,Clutch &Driveshaft Balancing & tire
mounting I personally take out of shop & stand by
to see the work getting done.

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2000 ford exploorer v-8 awd eddie bauer edition new wheels and tires new ball joints new tierods new shocks 3 front front end alignments started having a vibration in the front end at about 70+ mph had the...


Hello, I see you may a lot of changes and replaced a lot of parts. We leased an Explorer the same Year as yours. In our case there was a slight noise as well as vibration. The problem was the Front Hub bearings, They were bad at 18000 miles.

There are a few things I want to suggest. The spinning of the wheels on the lift will not load the bearings. A Dyno table can get everything turning with a load on it. As your vehicle is a 4x4, most Dyno's were 2 wheelers. You would have to call to find one for a 4x4.

Next, if the new Hubs do not help, have a look at the rotors. They are also balanced. You can spin balance the Wheel and rotor as a unit with a floor motor. It's not the best way to Balance because tire rotation or even shifting the Wheel on the lugs will UNbalance it. But this method CAN pinpoint a problem if a Balanced tire does not spin true when bolted to the vehicle. You will know the Rotor is off-balance and which axle is causing the problem.

Would be interested to see a Post of what you found.

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could have bent rim,,even thow,,balance was done,,depends on how mush weight was used to balance?? rotate tires from frt to rear,,see if problem still exits,,ck bearing play,,hoped it helped

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Part names


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