Ford 2004 e250 after cleaning/removed battery terminal, won't start or engine won't running, fuel 1/2 full, this happen after disconnect +/- battery terminal remove.

First thing to try with any diesel that won't start is to do a diesel system bleed. This one should be before the HP fuel rail type so start by bleeding the lift pump, then the fuel filters, then the main injector pump to lines to the injectors and lastly the injectors. Good luck.

Check all cable connections for corrosion and clean everything you have connections from the battery to the starter relay the actual cables to the starter and also check the starters ground strap at the nose of it if it's frayed or broken you found it this is a contact problem and clean and tighten everything do not use wire brushes 4/0 that's 0000 steel wool =liquid wrench=pb blaster will all help the wire brush rips apart the terminals and battery post causing loose connections they must be tight no air gap good luck stephen

check coolant and oil level.check battery and connection,starter,fuel filter,fuel pump,spark plugs and coils.

I'd clean the MAF sensor and maybe replace the fuel filter.
When you get it running again,put a can of the best fuel system cleaner in the tank and run it a while.
Anytime you disconnect the battery the computer relearns your driving habits the next few times you run it. It might even run a little rough the first few miles.
Also,run that stored(old) gas out and then refill with quality Marathon or Shell.
No check engine light? don-ohio

The alarm system somehow got activated , this is usually because the battery becomes discharged or disconnected try doing this:
Remove the key from the ignition
disconnect the negative battery terminal
put the key back in and turn to ON
exit the truck and leave door open
reconnect the battery terminal
get in and leave door open, if the alarm horn stays off it should start.

Not too sure about Toyota's but sounds like the computer has "forgotten how to idle". Fords do this when the battery is disconnected, as did some Cadillac's. Ford's solution is to let it idle for 15 minutes to "re-learn" operational characteristics of the engine. Found the following elsewhere:
Disconnecting the battery (for longer than a few moments) causes the onboard Engine Control Computer to reset and forget all the calibration data for your car. (In much the same way that you might have to re-program your favorite radio station push-buttons again.)

When you re-connect the battery and re-start the car, it has to "re-learn" all the correct settings for your particular car's engine all over again and the only way that happens is by actually using the car. Taking the car to the dealer as someone else suggested won't do any good, unless you like paying $65+ per hour for the mechanic to drive your car around and get it all warmed up. :-)

After about the first 10 miles, the idle will be much better. It will take 30-50 miles for the entire re-calibraton to finish. Take a 25 mile interstate road trip one way, turn around and come back home.

Your problem may be one of the following:
First check or just replace the fuel filter. Usually located under the car in front of the rear axle, drivers side.
Next, the fuel pump may be worn out. Usually they get loud or stop working (running).
Next, check the fuel pressure regulator. Usually located on the front fuel rail, drivers side.
Is the vacuum line attached? Not leaking or rotted?
Also, do you smell a strong fuel odor when it won't start? May be one or more stuck-open injectors, or the coil pack is bad.
Checking these in the order listed will more than likely fix your problem.
The clicking noise indicates the battery can no longer run the starter, which also means the fuel pump won't run either.
It could be a fuel issue. How old is the fuel filter? Can you hear the pump run for a few seconds when you turn the key on? Try turning the key to ON without trying to start engine three times waiting for the pump to stop running each time. Then try to start the engine. If it starts, Its a form of Vapor lock caused by the extreme heat we have had lately, and a weak fuel pump.

If none of this works, try a new fuel filter first. From there have someone check the fuel pressure regulator and then the pump. If you are in need of a new pump, take my word for it and spend the money to get one from a Dealer, and not from your favorite parts store. Most parts store parts are made in China and they are JUNK.

If both the alternator and the battery are good, either the alternator isn't turning fast enough (slipping belt or engine idle speed too slow), or you have a wiring problem.

To check your wiring, look for the "1" terminal on the back of the alternator (left side of spade terminal connector). When you turn the ignition key to the run position without starting the engine, the alternator warning light should be at full brightness. If the bulb is burned out, the alternator will not get the excitation current it needs to start up (it goes through the bulb). With the engine running, you should measure 12 Volts at the 1 terminal (this is the excitation terminal).

Another thing to check is whether the battery charge wire is good. If it is corroded inside at the battery clamp end or burned out, you won't get charging even though the alternator appears to be working. If you don't have an ohmmeter, you can make a quick test by adding a new 8 AWG wire between the output terminal and the battery clamp. If the battery now charges, the original wire is bad. If this works, I recommend installing an inline fuse at the alternator end no larger than the largest size used in your electrical system, just in case something happens to the jumper wire. That way you won't burn out your alternator.

The heater/AC issue could very likely be a separate problem, but inadequate power may keep that system from running properly. (Note: low idle speed or belt problems will also be detrimental to AC performance.)

It will start when cold, and after driving and then parking, the starter will not turn over? Replace your starter/solenoid.

WARNING: WHEN SERVICING THE STARTER MOTOR (11002) OR PERFORMING OTHER ENGINE COMPARTMENT WORK NEAR THE STARTER MOTOR (11001) , BE AWARE THAT THE HEAVY GAUGE BATTERY INPUT LEAD AT THE STARTER SOLENOID (11390) IS "ELECTRICALLY HOT" AT ALL TIMES. BE SURE TO DISCONNECT BATTERY GROUND CABLE (14301) BEFORE SERVICING STARTER MOTOR .

2.0L Engine Starter Removal

1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Remove engine intake air resonator and air box.
3. Disconnect the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor and mass air flow (MAF) sensor.
4. Remove three starter motor retaining bolts and ground wire.
5. Raise vehicle on hoist.
6. Remove integral connector retaining nuts and wires from starter solenoid.
7. Disconnect the knock sensor.
8. Remove the axle shaft bearing bracket bolts and position the bracket aside.
9. Remove the starter motor.
   

Installation
NOTE: When installing lower starter motor retaining bolts, be sure to install ground cable.

1. Position starter motor to transaxle and loosely install lower retaining bolt.
2. Install axle shaft bearing bracket. Tighten to 21 Nm (15 lb-ft).
3. Connect knock sensor.
4. Install integral connector retaining nuts. Tighten B-terminal retaining nut to 11 Nm (97 lb-in). Tighten S-terminal retaining nut to 5 Nm (44 lb-in).
   
5. Lower vehicle to floor.
6. Install starter motor retaining bolts and ground wire. Tighten to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft).
7. Install engine intake air resonator and air box.
   
8. Connect the IAT and MAF.
9. Connect battery ground cable.
   

2.5L Engine Starter Removal

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the idle air control (IAC) valve hose from the intake manifold.
3. Remove the IAC valve hose locator from the upper radiator hose.
4. Remove the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hoses from the air cleanter outlet tube.
   
5. Disconnect the intake air temperature (IAT) and mass air flow (MAF) sensor electrical connectors.
6. Disconnect the air cleaner inlet tube from the air cleaner housing and the outlet tube from the throttle body.
7. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
8. Remove the air cleaner housing support bracket.
9. CAUTION: Do not carry an open flame of any type when working on or near an open fuel system. The fuel system remains under pressure for long periods of time after engine shutdown. The fuel pressure must be relieved before performing any service to the fuel system.
   
10. Remove the protective service valve cap and connect the Multiport Fuel Injection (MFI) Fuel Pressure Gauge T80L-9974-B to the fuel pressure service valve, located on the fuel injector rail. Slowly open the valve and relieve the fuel system pressure. Remove the gauge and install the protective service valve cap.
11. Remove the safety clips and disconnect the fuel line couplings using disconnect tools D87L-9280-A (for 3/8-inch lines) and D87L-9280-B (for 1/2 inch lines). Install protective caps and position the fuel lines out of the way.
12. Remove the transaxle selector cable bracket retaining bolts and position the bracket (with cable attached) aside.
13. Disconnect the starter motor solenoid electrical connectors. Secure the battery cable harness and the heater hoses aside.
14. If equipped, remove the starter motor support bracket.
15. Remove the starter motor.
    

Installation

1. Install the starter motor. Tighten the bolts to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
2. If equipped, install the starter motor support bracket. Tighten the retaining bolt to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft). Tighten the retaining nuts to 17 Nm (13 lb-ft).
3. Connect the positive battery cable and solenoid harness to the starter motor solenoid. Tighten the battery cable retaining nut to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft). Tighten the solenoid terminal retaining nut to 5 Nm (44 lb-in).
4. Install the transaxle selector cable bracket. Tighten the bolts to 20 Nm (15 lb-in).
5. NOTE: Inspect all O-ring seals and garter springs for damage, prior to assembly. If either O-ring is damaged, both O-rings must be replaced. Replace the O-rings or garter springs only with the appropriate replacement parts. Lubricate the O-rings with clean engine oil, prior to assembly.
6. Remove the protective caps and connect the fuel line couplings. Install the safety clips.
7. Install the air cleaner housing support bracket. Tighten the bolts to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
8. Connect the air cleaner housing to the air cleaner inlet tube and the outlet tube to the throttle body. Install the PCV hoses to the air cleaner outlet tube. Connect the IAC valve hose to the intake manifold and securely tighten the retaining clamp. Install the IAC valve hose locator to the upper radiator hose. Connect the IAT and MAF sensor electrical connectors.
9. NOTE: When the battery is disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the vehicle relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 16 km (10 mi) or more to relearn the strategy.
10. Connect the negative battery cable.
    

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

start by getting the car to run...If you played with the fuses and battery, this is where to start. Clean the battery terminals and tighten them after cleaning...test the fuses-the tester is about ten bucks at most autoparts stores...If after that no start, then you will need to break out a multimeter and find the short circuit.