My 2001 oldsmobile aurora sticks on a high idle randomly. When I put the transmission into part my tach revs at 2.5-3. I need to ride my brakes to slow down and I really need to keep the brake on at stop lights and stop signs. Again the is random. It can happen 2-3 in a week and then not for weeks.

Hi,
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NOTE: In order to perform a meaningful diagnosis, it is necessary to utilize either a code scanner or code reader. A test light, ohmmeter, digital voltmeter, vacuum gauge and jumper wires may be required. You do not need any of the aforementioned items to inspect vacuum hoses, wiring, or disconnected plugs or adapters. All of these items can be borrowed from AutoZone -- FREE!
Before undertaking any repair or diagnostic work, be sure to inspect wiring for proper connection, burned or worn/chafed spots, and cuts.
Be sure to check hoses that are hard to see beneath the air cleaner, compressor, alternator, etc.
It sounds to me like your idle relief valve and/or the throttle position sensor is malfunctioning.
The throttle position sensor is used by your on-board computer to determine the amount of throttle demanded by the driver.
Detailed Explanation: The Throttle Position (TP) sensor is connected to the throttle shaft and is controlled by the throttle mechanism. A 5 volt reference signal is sent to the TP sensor from the ECM. As the throttle valve angle is changed (accelerator pedal moved), the resistance of the TP sensor also changes. At a closed throttle position, the resistance of the TP sensor is high, so the output voltage to the ECM will be low (approximately 0.5 volt). As the throttle plate opens, the resistance decreases so that, at wide open throttle, the output voltage should be approximately 5 volts. At closed throttle position, the voltage at the TP sensor should be less than 1.25 volts.
The idle air relief valve does a lot of good things but is a pain when not functioning.
• Regulates the amount of air entering the engine during idle. • When not replaced, vehicle could experience high or low idle, engine dies at idle and/or severe high idle possibly causing internal engine damage and safety issues.
Please understand that these are mere suggestions and a comprehensive analysis requires a code scanner or code reader as stated above.
The steps I'm going to outline are the same as we use in my shop for hesitation, sag and stumble. Out of the box, I'd say that you have a problem with the fuel management system. However, there's a good chance that it's something simple and inexpensive like a clogged fuel filter or water in the fuel tank.

All of the tools required can be borrowed from AutoZone at NO COST!
Sensors:
• The sensors can be checked with an OBD-II code scanner borrowed from AutoZone. Pay special attention to an TP (Throttle Position) warnings. The sensor can be manually checked for binding or sticking. • Check the Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) found near the firewall and screwed into the exhaust manifold for signs of corrosion on the threads. That will cause a faulty ground.

Fuel System:
• Check the fuel pressure with that fuel pressure gauge from AutoZone. You reading should be 40-45 PSI and holding steady. • Contaminated fuel is a constant problem and if the pressure does not hold steady, replace the fuel filter.
Additional Checks:
• Make certain that the engine thermostat is functioning and is the correct temperature. • Make certain that the alternator voltage output is not less than 9 volts nor more than 17 volts.

Here's a little general information that will assist you in comprehending the readouts from the code scanner. This is simply for your edification. You may be aware of all this but we've never done business before and all assumptions are off the table.
All the best,
Ben