My opera lights does not light up i replace the lights &the 110 volt vac they still do not work

is this when the shasta is plugged into a 110 volt hookup or are you running a generator try turning everthing off and taking a 110v extension cord and plugging it into the plugin in question then go inside try any of the 110 v lights tv plugs ect is there connection there ok then plug is working what about breakers fuse ect. you can take the battery loose and turn everything off take a car battery hook 2 wires to it,(2wires) plug one into the one side of plug (not ground) and hook the other up to a wire hooked to the ground' then go inside take a 12 volt test light try and find if the voltage front that side is at fuse box if so note it ',if not switch the wire you hooked to the other plugin prong hole (not ground) do same test inside with test light okay is voltage there you can assume something from such measurements but not from the 1 volt it is inconclusive as to whether running a new wire is necessary or not

Typically, the 110 Volt will go into a power center which should include a small amp battery recharger. Your 12 volt lights should run off a 'house' battery which should be isolated from the truck battery, yet, the truck alternator should charge the "house" battery on the road. The device that allows this is called a Isolator. You may find a manual switch instead. You definitely don't want the house and truck battery to both run yourf coach with no recharge capability. Some systems have a 'emergency start" switch which allows you to use the house battery to start the engine. All 12 volt house stuff should run off the house battery and the battery should be recharged by the truck or the small battery charger. Do you have an evap frig? Runs on propane or electricity? It needs 12 volts whether it is running on gas or 110 Volts. The 12 volts runs the control panel and the heat to make it work is supplied by the gas or by a electric calrod if 110 is available.

I am pretty familiar with these electrical systems ... I seriously doubt you will find any information on your 20+ year old motor home. Typically, the printed specs and equipment and the data is obsolete before the ink is dry because the manufacturers use what is available as they build. If you have additional questions simply click on the "add comment" or the "reply" link and I will take a look-see.

I hope this answers your current question. Thanks for your interest in FixYa.com

no fuse for the lighting system for it works off a power invertor which steps up 2 volts to 110 volts. That will work direct so it the bulbs are not working check the power leads to the light with a volt meter. If power does show on the meter replace the light assembly

Yes, check the fuse and brake light relay in the engine compartment relay box. See my tip at http://www.fixya.com/TipsAndTricks/posttipandtrick.aspx?thid=6053280 and let me know if you have questions

The third brake light switch works off a module for it is a sealed unit with a inverter that takes 12 volts beefing the voltage to 110 volts for the light emitting diode lights in it. It these terms you will need a new brake light switch located by the brake pedal

If the light does not work either the power invertor is at fault or the lamp needs to be replaced as a complete unit. These are light emitting diodes instead of bulbs inside this sealed lamp. The invertor takes 12 volts and beefs it up to 110 volts to operate the lamp

The third brake light will need a replacement on your car. They are sealed units with a power invertor that takes 12 volts and runs the lights at a higher voltage. Most top self vehicles have this now including most Japanese built cars as well. Remenber the old car with opera lights? They had this system too although the invertor was sold separately from the light