This problem is caused by the drivers door lock actuator. It spikes the lock/unlock driver, causing the bcm to shut it down. For a temp repair, pull the only red fuse in the PDC (engine bay) for 2 min and then refit. The fault will reoccur but the cost to repair is not worth it.This problem is caused by the drivers door lock actuator. It spikes the lock/unlock driver, causing the bcm to shut it down. For a temp repair, pull the only red fuse in the PDC (engine bay) for 2 min and then refit. The fault will reoccur but the cost to repair is not worth it.
You can't post conmments that contain an email address.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Look at the end of the dash and between the drivers side door for a second fuse panel. I think everything you mention works on one data bus. You can remove the button pad on the drivers door. Since it gets used all th3 time i# might have gone bad messing up the works.
It might be a coincidence with the sun roof, but all makes and models of cars have window and door lock problems with age. Two things happen as a car ages. In most cases, the drivers door opens and closes more often than the rest of the doors, also your more likely to leave the drivers window open and it rains in on the controls. The majority of the time, it's the wiring at the door hedge that bends back and forth & breaks when you get in and out of your vehicle. Everyone's situation is different depending on use/mileage.
Example: Delivery driver, miles 50k window/door lock problem.
Highway daily driver 150k miles with no problems.
You can sometime check this your self. Turn on your ignition where the windows should work. "engine does not have to start" Sit in the drivers seat, hold down the window up/down button while moving the door in question to open & close. If the window tries to move at any time, the wires are wore in half. This does not always work, but I have had great luck trouble shooting electrical door problems using this method. If you have doors with no wires, clean the contact points. Hatchbacks & minivans use this system. Hope this helps.
If the switch is a all in one meaning the lock switch is integrated in with the Windows switch. Problem is not a fuse could be a defective switch or something wrong with window system
you do have an electrical problem. check the connections on the door panel for driver and passenger side. you will have to take the panel loose for this.
The last couple of times I have seen this complaint, the "Lock" button on the master (driver's door) switch had been depressed. Unlatching the lock button (pushing it again) solved the problem. On most cars, when the lock button is depressed, the windows can still be operated by the driver, but prevent the windows from being operated by the passengers. Toyota is different. If the lock button is depressed, nobody, including the driver can work the wndows.
Look in the Engine bay fuse box at Fuse #12 this should be for the power windows.
If this checks out OK, it could be a fault with a bad ground wire in driver's side door harness.
You should be able to pry the runbber boot from the drivers door, and check the larger Black wire that goes through it. These have been known to break after a few years use. If it is the cable, cut neatly, strip the ends anu use a crimp splice.
Hope this is a quick and easy fix for you.
If it helps you solve the problem, Please take a moment to rate as Fixya! Thanks.
×