BAD IGNITION COIL CONNECTION TO WIRING HARNESS
It seems that the connector gets old and brittle after time. Becomes an intermittent problem. It is probably common and why there are so many posts about this. It was a devil to figure out.
I had a similar issue on my 1998 Hyundai GL (stick shift). After replacing the battery, fuel pump and relay, fuel filter, checking all the sensors, checking out the ECU which gave no codes, and paying a lot of different mechanics who couldn't figure it out I decided to try replacing the ignition coil. After that is seemed to work, then went a little funky. I discovered that it was running on just 2 cylinders. When I wiggled the wires to the ignition coil it resolved the problem which then came back. Upon swapping back the original ignition coil to test I found that the connector from the wiring harness was very brittle and after fiddling with it I realized that this was a problem. Not able to find a replacement connector easily I drove it around on 2 cylinders with one of the leads hard wired. It then consistently ran - but on only 2 cylinders. I then hard wired the other 2 yesterday. That seems to have fixed the issue. It was as simple as that. Intermittently bad connection to the ignition coil.
If you need to replace that connector it is "Ignition Coil Wire Harness For 96-00 Elantra, 97-01 Tiburon 27367 23000" Beware that Hyundai uses the same part number for the condenser part - so verify that. I had to wrong part sent to me twice before I gave up and hardwired it. That part costs about $30 if you can find it. Thought I would share...
Months later. No more issues. This appears to have fixed the issue.
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It sounds like this could be your fuel pump sensor also as mention in the earlier post the click could be the pump relay reseting allowing the pump to come on to deliver fuel to the engine. You may also want to check the ignition relay in the fuse box under the hood, a weak relay can heat up and need time to reset before letting the engine start, at the dealership they may not give it time enough to heat up to cause the problem. When the problem occurs again turn the key and listen for the pump to come on if it does come on, then move to the next solution. Hope this helps.
Sounds like it could be a similar issue to what I just went through. My car wouldn't start on two separate occasions after I had refilled my tank. First time happened a little over a month ago, the starter would crank, and crank, but no signs of life in the engine. Tested the spark plugs, I was getting spark, but the ****** wouldn't start.
Had it towed to the dealership, and they said after 4 long attempts, they got it to start. I took it home, and the next morning I couldn't start it again. Towed it back a second time, and it started right up for them. Drove it back home again and a a month later things started acting up again.
A few days ago the wife pulled the car out of the garage, where the car was level, stopped the car on our slanted driveway and when she came back to start it just minutes later, it hesitated, but did turn over. I filled up the tank and the very next morning, I could not start my car again.
Called for a tow from AAA, and the driver said "let me try something". Pulled out a hammer, and wacked the bottom of my gas tank 4 or 5 times. The tow guy gets in, tuns the ignition to engage the fuel pump (didn't turn the key all the way), he does this about 4 times, then the very next turn of the key it starts right up. The driver said it sounded like a bad fuel pump.
I drive the car back to the dealership (this is the third time) and talk to the same guy I had dealt with all along. He calls me later in the day to tell me they finally got it to not start and were able to isolate the problem to the fuel pump sensor. They replaced the fuel pump assembly and I was off and running.
Hope this helps!
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