Bmw rear door window replacement- How do I slide the new window into the frame without removing the corner window?

1. Begin by removing the trim panel from the inside of the rear door. This will expose the vent window assembly.
2. Remove any screws or bolts that are securing the vent window assembly in place. There may also be clips or retaining tabs that need to be released.
3. Carefully remove the vent window assembly from the vehicle.
4. Remove the old vent window from the assembly. This may involve removing screws, clips, or other fasteners.
5. Install the new vent window into the assembly, following the reverse of the removal process.
6. Reinstall the vent window assembly into the rear door, making sure it is properly aligned and secured.
7. Replace the trim panel on the inside of the rear door.

Armrest Door Pull
Remove Rubber Cover
Remove 10mm ***** The first step is to pry out the plastic trim plate behind the chrome colored door release handle using a small flathead screwdriver.Then remove the 10mm ***** behind the plate using a ratcheting wrench with an extension bar attached.
Next pry out the rubber cover at the bottom of the door pull located in the center of the arm rest. Use a Torx T-25 (star bit) screwdriver to remove the two screws.
Remove Torx T25 Screws
2 T-25 Torx & 1 10mm *****
Pry Up Arm Rest Panel Use a flathead screwdriver to pry up the rear of the plastic arm rest panel. There is a plastic hook at the front of the panel, so only pry it up from the rear edge.
Lift Rear End First
Plastic Hook At Front of Panel
Power Window Connector After you lift out the arm rest panel, you'll need to disconnect the power connector for the window and door lock switches.
Push Connector Release Tab
Power Connector Unplugged
Two More T25 Screws Push on the release tab with a flathead screwdriver and pull out the power window / door lock connector.Use a Torx T25 screwdriver to remove the two screws located below the arm rest panel.
Remove T25 Torx Screws
Outer Edge of Panel
Push In Center of Fastener Then move to the outer edge of the door panel and locate the two small round fasteners. Use a small screwdriver to pop in the center pins of the two fasteners.
Pull Out Plastic Rivet
Black Plastic Fastener Removed
Remove Lower Fastener Pull out the two plastic rivet fasteners and set them aside in a safe place.
Pull Panel Away From Door
White Plastic Pop Rivets
Pull Off Sail Panel Grab the door pull in the arm rest and tug it towards yourself to disengage the pop rivet friction fasteners that hold the panel to the door frame.Move to the top corner of the door panel and pry off the triangular "sail" panel. On some vehicles, the sail panel contains the tweeter speaker.
Lift Panel Off Door Lock
Pull Out Door Pull Cable Lift the door panel off the door lock button and tilt the top of it out towards yourself.Use a pair of needle nose pliers to gently lift the metal ball at the end of the door opener cable out of the mechanism.
Disconnect the door cable from the back side of the door panel.
Door Pull Cable Removed
Disconnect Power Mirror Then disconnect the power connector for the side view mirror by lifting up on the release tab. Slide the power connector off the plastic anchor on the metal door frame.
Slide Connector Off Anchor
Unlock Connector
Connector Detached Look behind the door panel and locate the large wire connector with the pink lever lock. Swing the lever open to unlock the connector and separate it from the socket.


Door Panel Removed
Power Window Motor
10mm Bolts Now the door panel can be completely removed by lifting it up and off the door frame.To replace the power window motor, remove the 10mm bolts.
Stock OEM Door Speaker
Remove 7mm ***** The stock "OEM" speaker is held in place by a single 7 mm *****. Remove it with a socket and ratcheting wrench.
Pry Off OEM Speaker
Speaker Removed
Disconnect Power Plug If the speaker is stuck to the door frame, gently pry it off with a small flathead screwdriver.Disconnect the speaker's power plug by pressing the release tab with the small flathead screwdriver.
Fits 5.25", 6.5", 6.75"
Re-installing Door Panel According to the Crutchfield website, the 2008 to 2012 Chevrolet Malibu's front door speakers can be replaced withaftermarket speakers in the following sizes: 5 1/4", 6 1/2" or 6 3/4" speakers with the use of a bracket.If you'd like to reduce road noise, make your car quieter and also improve the sound from your speakers, I'd recommend applying some Dynamat Sound Deadener on to the metal door frame.
Re-Attach To Anchor
Plug In Power Side View Mirror
Re-Insert Power Connector To re-install the door panel, first hold the panel close to the door frame before re-connecting the large wire plug. Swing the pink lever closed to lock it in place.Slide the socket for the power side view mirror back on to its anchor and insert the power plug.
Lock Power Connector
Pink Lever Locked
Re-Insert Door Pull Cable Ball Insert the metal ball at the end of the door opener cable back in to the door handle mechanism.Slide the black plastic cone part of the cable back into the slot in the door opener assembly.
Door Opener Cable Reinstalled
Hang Door Panel On Frame Gently lower the door panel down on to the edge of the door frame with the door lock switch through the opening at the top.
Line Up White Plastic Fasteners
Push On Sail Panel
Push Door Panel In Place Move to the bottom of the door panel and line up the white plastic pop rivet fasteners with the holes in the metal door frame.Push all around the door panel to re-insert the pop rivet fasteners.
Re-attach the sail panel at the top corner of the door frame.
Push Panel Flush Against Frame
Insert Side Edge Fasteners
Insert Larger Piece First Next move to the side edge of the door panel and first re-insert the larger piece of the two fasteners. Then insert the smaller "pin" piece of the fastener into the middle of the larger piece.
Insert Small "Pin" Piece
Install Lower Edge Fastener
Tighten 2 T25 Torx Screws
Re-Attach Power Connector
Insert Front Hook First Insert and tighten the two Torx T-25 screws located under the arm rest.Re-attach the power connector to the plastic arm rest panel.
First insert the hook at the front of the arm rest panel and then snap the rear end in place.
Pop Arm Rest Panel In Place
Tighten 2 T25 Screws
Replace Rubber Cover Insert and tighten the two T25 Torx screws into the door pull cup. Then replace the rubber cover over the two screws.
Tighten 10mm Door Handle *****
Replace Door Handle Trim Plate
Malibu Door Panel Replaced Replace the 10mm ***** that goes above and behind the door opener handle and tighten it. Pop in the plastic trim plate behind the door handle.

Remove interior door trim. There will be screws as well as plastic pins that have to be pried out. Wind the window all the way down. There will be some tracks in the lift mechanism with rollers that are attached to the window frame. Locate and remove the bolts that secure the frame. The window should then come out.

Remove rear door panel, reconnect power window switch, looking at bottom edge of glas you should see two 10mm bolts roll down window until bolts are accessible. Remove bolts and tilt window around 10 degrees top edge out/in. if still to tight to slide out put glass in lowest position and remove window frame weather stripping and it should slide right out the top, careful not to scratch tint.

I suspect you mean the glass runs that get all deformed at the top rear corner and front corner by the mirror?

Open the door and lower the glass all the way.

Grab the rubber at the top center of the door frame and dig it out of the channel with your finger nails.
Once you have a bite, pull it off to the corners, then at the front and rear corners pull upwards to pull the rest of the run out of the rail.

To install, it helps to lubricate the back edge of the new glass runs with silicon spray or similar.
Place it into the rail and grabbing a fistful near the top push doward with firm force to slide the rubber down into the rail. It will get more difficult once you reach the glass.
If you get to a point where you can not get it to down any further yet you have further to go, run the window up partially, then while pushing down on the down window switch, force the rubber to slide with the window. The glass will help carry the run the rest of the way down.
When you get the front and rear to the correct heights so the corner line up, peel the tape off the front corner by the mirror and stick the run full into the rail at the mirror and the rest of the way over the door to the rear corner If it is a little short you can tug on it to get a little slack.

You'll have to drop down one corner of the headliner, like the left rear.
Removed the grab handle, and the c pillar trim, and drop it down a bit, and slide the bracket out.

I would suggest replacing the whole regulator. They do offer the plastic slide pieces seperatly but usually the regulators bend and cause premature breakage of new component. If you can just replace the slides-remove the regulator and drill out existing piece if it is broken off in regulator. Next take a ball peen hammer and peen new metal into a mushrrom to secure it to existing regulator. I would remove the slider from the glass and push window all the way up and secure with a suction cup to keep it from falling down. Then take off the 2 screws securing the motor harness(disconnect the battery because one wire is hot and pay attention to the placement of the wires when they are resecured-it will just work in the opposite fashion if the polarities are reversed). Then take out the nuts and bolts securing the regulator to the door frame. If you figured out how to take off a 126 door panal you should be able to figure out the regulator position in the shell. Once the regulator is out remove the motor and secure it to the new regulator. Inspect the teeth on the motor and lube with grease (white lithium grease is what I use-wheel bearing grease is fine but it can be messy). Then "fish" new regulator into the door and secure nuts(use red locktight so they do not loosen up in the future).Then slide window down and slide in new plastic slides into window glass frame-you will want to leave the regulator loose and may have to start one of the slides before you secure regulator to door. Lube up the run channels and slides with grease. Snug regulator and operate window with regulator partially loose to let window find the best position with the lease stress and then secure regulator. It isn't as bad as it looks and with a new regulator it will be more self explanitory. Worse case senario remove the other rear panal and copy that regulator position. Good luck I hope I have been helpful.

Gary, I had the same problem with my 1999 F150 xcab. I first ran water from a hose over the roof toward the back window. Start at one side and look for water trickles at the top of the window. Don't stop at one place but do the whole window. I found mine leaking at the upper corners and a small trickle at the slider window ends.
I removed my headliner to gain access to the nuts that hold in the window. There are two sets of nuts, one set for the windows molding outside and the other for the window itself. The factory seal was shrinking on the upper corners allowing the water to pour in. The window had to be removed. If you take off the nuts slide a utility knife between the body metal and the window frame, it will release. Be careful not to push too hard on the glass when removing (it may crack the frame and / or the glass itself) just use a steady push and make sure you cut the seal well with your knife.
After you have the window out, clean off the old seal with a plastic scraper so as not to damage the window frame surface, then clean with rubbing alcohol. Do the same with the tucks cab metal where the window seals to the cab. Be sure NOT to scratch the paint. If you so you will need to touch it up before you reinstall the window. Check your window for stress cracks in the frame. You can seal them with the butyl tape you will get at the parts store. If you cna't seal the stress cracks you will have to replace the window. You can also seal sround the outer edge of the window frame between the glass and the inner edge of the window frame that mounts against the truck body. The butyl tape should work for that as well, it is self adhesive.
Go to your local autoparts store and get new sealing material (butyl tape 1/4" or smaller). It comes in a roll. Place the seal around the edge of the window frame, making sure the tape is on the outside edge of the studs, and place the window back in the opening. (hold the window in by opening the slider) and replace the nuts on the inside. Snuggly tighten the nuts starting from the closest to the centers and working your way to the outside corner nuts. Once you have the window reinstalled you can water test your window right away, the sealer is waterproof immediately. If the window is sealed you may reinstall the headliner and any panels you had to remove.

The window should slide right in from the top of the window.. you may have to angle it in... but you shouldn't have to remove the corner window...

this is the link to the information http://www.swisco.com/Screen/how-to-repl...

Opening your patio sliding glass door should be an easy task. If your sliding door is giving you a work out every time you open it, most likely it is your rollers that are causing the problem. The rollers are located on the bottom of the sliding door and give the door the ability to slide. Often times they get dirty and wear out, making it difficult to open the door. If you have an older sliding glass door your rollers may have become rusty because sliding door units did not always use stainless steel rollers.

Hiring a professional to replace your rollers could cost you around $100 not including the cost of the replacement parts. Below are detailed steps containing all the information you will need to know to replace your patio sliding glass door rollers yourself.

* Before you start, understand that you need to take the sliding glass door out of its frame to work on the rollers. The sliding glass door is heavy. You may need the assistance of another to help you remove the door.

1) Your patio glass door will have two separate glass units. One unit is the door that you slide and the other unit is stationary. First, stand outside your house and look at your sliding glass door. If the stationary unit is between you and the sliding unit you will most likely have to remove the stationary unit so that you can get to the glass sliding unit.

Before you go through the trouble of removing the stationary unit, first try to go inside your house and see if you can remove the sliding unit. Usually you cannot because there is a lip along the bottom of the patio glass door frame (it keeps moisture out of the house) that prevents the sliding glass door from being removed from the inside.

If the rollers on the bottom of the door are difficult to get over the lip, you can adjust them to help you create more room (go down to step 2). If it is not the rollers but the sliding unit�s frame preventing you from pulling the sliding unit out of the door frame, you are going to need to remove the stationary unit first before you can remove the sliding unit.

To remove the stationary unit, you first need to take out your screen door (if you have one). Lift one end of the screen door frame and use a screwdriver to lift the roller on the bottom of the screen door frame off of the track. Do this to both ends of the screen door and your screen door will pull out of the door frame.

The stationary unit is held in place by a metal piece that runs along the bottom of the track from the corner of the stationary unit to the bottom of the side jamb (there is a chance this piece is missing but if you do have one remove it from the track). After you have removed the metal piece, look for screws holding the stationary unit frame in place. After removing all of the screws try pulling the stationary unit out of the door frame. If you are having trouble pulling out the stationary unit, try placing a screwdriver between the stationary unit�s bottom frame and the track it is resting on. Lift up on the screwdriver while you have a helper pull out the stationary unit from the door frame. Be careful not to use too much force with the screwdriver so that you do not damage the door track.

2) You may need to create more room when you attempt to remove the sliding unit from the door frame. To create more room you can adjust the rollers on the bottom of the sliding unit. By turning the adjusting screws on the rollers clockwise the wheels move up into the sliding unit�s frame giving you more room. The adjusting screws are located either at the bottom of the sliding unit�s frame or in the sides of the frame. There is a chance that there are plugs covering the screws.

After you adjust both rollers (one on each side of the sliding units frame) try to remove the sliding unit from the door frame. If the unit is still getting stuck you may need to get someone to help you. Have your helper lift one side of the unit and pull outwards while you try to pry the other side of the unit over the track.

3) To remove the rollers from most sliding units you need to remove the bottom of the sliding units frame. Most likely the screw that holds the roller in place is the same screw that holds the frame together. Remove the screw from both sides of the unit. Then try to remove the bottom piece of the frame off of the sliding unit; you may need to use a rubber mallet or a piece of wood and tap on the bottom of the frame until it comes off of the sliding unit.

Now that you have removed the bottom of the frame you can take a close look at your patio glass door rollers. Remove one of the rollers and match it up with one of the rollers on this page http://www.swisco.com/page/SI/CTGY/patio...

It is a good idea to replace both sliding door rollers at the same time to prevent extra wear-and-tear to one new roller, which will have to work twice as hard when paired with an older roller.

4) After your new rollers come in, replace your old rollers with the new ones. To make it easier to install the sliding unit back into the door frame, adjust the rollers to be all the way up into the frame. Once you have the sliding unit back in the door frame you can adjust the rollers for optimal performance. Keep adjusting the rollers until the door is sliding back and forth easily