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I have a 1999 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport, 2.2 liter w/AT. My issue is that it doesn't want to accelerate until I hit 3500 rpm, then it will take off like a rocket until it shifts and the rpm's drop. It then slowly creeps back up to the magical 3500 rpm and the cycle repeats itself. This issue fluctuates in terms of severity, and occasionally will completely go away for a short while. I recently replaced my battery and upon connecting it back up, the car ran perfectly for a few miles and then back to it's same old tricks. I tried disconnecting the battery again and it worked again... for a little while. Whenever I disconnect the battery and the ECU resets it works flawlessly for 2 or 3 miles. I've replaced the Front O2, PCV, TPS, and Knock Sensor. I've exhausted my best guesses and thought I would give someone else a try. Any suggestions?
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remove the door panel,bring glass down until you are able to se bolts that hold it to reulator,remove them and remove glass now remove 4 bolts holding regulator unit in and rtermove regulator and put in new regulator bolt it up put glass back in and bolt glass in test it and if works fine put door panel back on and your done.
Remove the rear wheel. There's a plastic road dirt cover over the filler tube. The top of the tube is secured with 2 or 3 small (M6) bolts, in the filler door area. The tube has another 2 or 3 M6 bolts, and is clipped into a rubber hose on the bottom end (this hose goes to the tank).
basic voltage drops will affect the running of any electronic ignition system..change the battery with a good one and this should go away..have the battery tested at the parts store and they can tell imediately if its bad..
If you have any of the large chain auto parts stores in your area, call them and ask if they do free scans; most do.
If Subaru has maintained the same procedures for a while, and you have checked fluids, etc., you can try resetting the light via the ignition switch:
-Turn on the ignition (don't start)
- switch it rapidly between the 'ignition on' and 'ignition off' positions three times.
If the error has cleared itself (not uncommon), the check light will reset. If the problem is still present, it will either stay or come back on.
Our Su has done this a couple of times and with the scanner we have on hand, there was never any particular repeated problem.
Just a computer glitch/hiccough -
Most Subarus have a coating on the bottom of the chassis called Cosmoline, which is an anti corrosion compound sprayed on at the factory to protect them during shipping. The only thing I can recommend is to have your brakes inspected for siezed caliper slide bolds, severe rotor deterioration, and sway bar end links that may be broken or are about to break. You should also have the exhaust looked at because that is usually the first to go and the biggest pain when trying to get it emissions tested. I hope this info helps...
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