Front axle how to remove half shaft

Try Autozone's loan-a-tool deal. The typical half-shaft remover is a fork that fits between the inner CV's housing and the transaxle case. The fork is attached to a slide hammer, only takes a blow or two to pull the half-shaft free.
Another way is to get a large screwdriver or pry bar or punch, use it against the inner CV's housing, tap it outward with a hammer. If you can get a good whack on it, it usually frees the axle. There is a circlip (ring) in a groove on the inner end of the shaft. This circlip fits in a corresponding groove in the transaxle gears. Once the ring clears the groove, the axle will slip right out.

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see this vdio

Lift and support front end on suitable jack stands preferably on frame. Remove right front cv axle, stub shaft, and seal. You will need to pull the right front brake caliper assembly loose and place to the side. Then remove bolts from shock and upper control arm and hub nut to do this. Next, remove axle lock actuator on passenger side of front axle. Place a drain pan underneath front diff cover and remove cover and drain axle. In the center of differential there will be an 8 mm head bolt holding spider gear cross-shaft. Remove bolt and cross-shaft only! Push inner axle in until clip clears inside of passenger spider gear. Set clip aside and push/pull axle shaft straight out to passenger side.

im not sure of your question. ?
that is a drive shaft and or propeller shaft, off
fist start by saying, what you are doing? we dont know.
What is the goal, ????
my guess is, removing the axle carrier from the axle housing?
you must remove both axles to do that.
here is a 2004 , axles being pulled. (im guessing what you are doing)
http://www.fixkick.com/axles/axle_rear_R&R.html

c keeps simply pull right off

you have to remove the four bolts in the brake back plate ,then remove the rear cover on the diff ,then strip the planet gears ,then on the end of the half shaft is a horse shoe shape clip ,pull this out then the half shaft comes out

The cable from the differential to the accumulator should move somewhat freely. If it does not, then the cable may be froze up. You can lubricate it with some penetrating oil and work it to free it back up. You may have to remove it to free it up properly.You may find the cable shield towards the bottom end is broke off and the cable may completely be froze up, it's common on the Blazers. You can try pulling on the rod that the cable clips into in the front diff to disengage the front axle. If you cannot get it to engage that way, then you will likely have to pull off the passenger side extension housing to access the engagement collar and fork. If you cannot get it to engage by pulling on the fork in the axle, then you will likely have to disassemble it.

You will likely have to file down the leading edge of the gears. They should be beveled on the sides of the spline to aid in engagement. Hopefully yours is not chipped like the one in the front of my old S10. Mine chipped the splines on the axle and split the collar from being partially engaged under power

The right axle and has splines at the end of it. The Output Shaft slides into the carrier and has large teeth on the other end. The collar it has large teeth inside it that mate with the Output Shaft with the Fork.

The collar rests on the axle, the fork wraps around the collar. Then you push the 4x4 button or shift your transfer case into 4x4 it starts spinning the front drive shaft, which spins the carrier and the short shaft. Now your in 4x4, BUT the front axle needs to lock the right axle with the carrier. A switch on the transfer case routes engine vacuum to a diaphragm under the battery tray, that diaphragm pulls a cable which pulls the collar and forces it over the short shaft. Now your front diff is locked. When you take it out of 4x4 the vacuum switch closes and a spring pushes the fork and collar off the shaft unlocking the front diff.

The problem with mine I think is that the large teeth on the Output Shaft and the inside of the collar are worn at the tips, not allowing them to join together, and the more I drove it around with it clicking, thinking it would lock eventually it just wore the tip of the teeth more.

If that is the problem, You should not have to mess with the differential case. You should be able to get the passenger axle extension tube off, but it may require popping a ball joint, then disconnecting the CV shaft from the axle extension tube, which would allow you to then pull the extension tube.

Good luck and hope it's just the shift cable retaining clip in the housing that broke.

jack rear end pull wheels & tires brake drums or rotors put truck in neutral pull cover turn drv shaft till you see a 5/16 bolt head or 8mm on right hand side pull bolt out a pin should fall out if not get a hammer & hitt diff in axle once or twice (not the gear the case that gear is attached) remove fallen out pin, push axle shafts in remove a horse shoe retainer from both sides, now pull both axle shafts out, remove the four bolts with caps (warning don't mix caps up) get big pry bar pop diff case out..go to auto zone web sight the have basic help manuals

well you need to pull rear cover and pull rotors or drums off and there are two clips in side the diff but you need to pull the center shaft out AND PUSH THE SHAFT IN WORD AND REMOVE TWO CLIPS AXLE WILL SLIDE OUT

I cannot see it, but I am guessing that you need to replace your axle seal. To do this,you have to pull your CV shaft out. Remove the tire, remove the caliper from the top of the rotor. Using a hammer on the back, remove the rotor. Take off the spindle (axle) nut, separate the axle (CV shaft) from the hub. Replace seal. It should pop right out. Good luck!