The clutch on my car stuck to the floor. I check the reservoir was completely empty. I have a feeling the slave cylinder is filled with air. I'll need to get the schematics to see how to bleed the clutch. clutch pedal sticks to floor

Air in the hydraulic clutch release System. The system consists of the clutch master cylinder, line, hose and clutch slave cylinder. Check the level at the clutch master cylinder. The fill reservoir is along the firewall on drivers side with a black cap. It uses DOT 3 brake fluid. Add fluid if low and pump pedal. If low you have a leak. If full you have a master cylinder internal seal bad so you have to have the master cylinder for the clutch replaced.

this symptom would typically be solved with a new cluth slave cylinder. Check to make sure the fluid is full in the master cylinder reservoir. If the fluid is empty then there is either a leak, or the clutch is has worn. filling the reservoir and bleeding the system may get you back on the road.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

I recommend bleeding the clutch using instructions pasted from autozone.com below. As for the engine light, please get the computer scanned and send us the diagnostic trouble code.
Hydraulic System Bleeding NOTE
It is necessary to bleed the clutch hydraulic release system if the system has lost an excessive amount of fluid and has allowed air into the circuit. Air in the system typically results in a spongy pedal feel, and/or improper clutch release. If air cannot be removed from the system using this procedure, it is necessary to replace both the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder assemblies.

Except Turbocharged Models

1. From driver's seat, actuate clutch pedal 60-100 times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system. Perform the following procedure:
2. Verify fluid level in clutch master cylinder reservoir. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
4. Remove clutch slave cylinder assembly from the transaxle case, but do not disconnect from the system. Allow the slave cylinder hang, making it the lowest part of the system.
   CAUTION
   While slave cylinder is detached from the transaxle, DO NOT actuate the clutch master cylinder. Damage to the slave cylinder will result.
   
5. Depress slave cylinder pushrod until it bottoms and then release. Repeat this at least ten times, forcing trapped air upwards and out of the system.
6. Re-install slave cylinder into position. Torque slave cylinder to case bolt to 168 inch lbs. (19 Nm).
7. Carefully lower the vehicle.
8. Check and adjust clutch master cylinder fluid level. Actuate clutch pedal thirty (30) times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage, air is still trapped within the system. Repeat Step 3 through Step 7 until air is purged. If several attempts at purging air from the system are unsuccessful, replace both the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder assemblies.
9. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
10. Carefully lower the vehicle.
11. Top off clutch master cylinder fluid level with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.

Turbocharged Models

NOTE
Due to the angle and design of the turbo hydraulic system components, gravity and pedal bleeding are less effective and less efficient than the reverse fluid injection method (reverse bleeding). Reverse bleeding is recommended for this system, and requires the use of commercially available injection bleeding equipment.

Alternate Procedure (Pedal Bleeding)

1. Remove reservoir cap and inspect fluid level. Top off with DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times. Verify release system function. Repeat. If release system is still inoperative, continue with procedure.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Remove clutch bellhousing access cap to expose system bleed screw.
   WARNING
   Use care not to allow fluid to drain into clutch bellhousing. Excessive fluid will be agitated and sprayed around inside the clutch bellhousing by the rotating flywheel, contaminating the flywheel, disc, and pressure plate, resulting in poor clutch engagement.
   
4. Using suitable socket/wrench, loosen bleed screw. Immediately install rubber hose to bleed screw to prevent fluid from entering clutch bellhousing. Tighten bleed screw gently with suitable wrench.
5. Lower vehicle.
6. Have helper actuate clutch pedal to floor.
7. Place collection container at end of hose to capture expelled fluid.
8. Using suitable wrench, break bleeder screw loose and tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
9. Have helper release pedal, returning it to at-rest position, and then actuate pedal to floor.
10. Break bleeder screw loose and tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
11. Repeat procedure as necessary, keeping master cylinder reservoir full during the process, until air bubbles are no longer visible in collection container.
12. When air bubbles are no longer visible, actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times.
13. Verify release system function and top off fluid as necessary.

Recommended Procedure (Reverse Bleeding)

1. Remove reservoir cap and inspect fluid level. Top off with DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times. Verify release system function. Repeat. If release system is still inoperative, continue with procedure.
2. Remove reservoir from bracket and empty into collection container.
3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
4. Remove clutch bellhousing access cap to expose system bleed screw.
   CAUTION
   Use care not to allow fluid to drain into clutch bellhousing. Excessive fluid will be agitated and sprayed around inside the clutch bellhousing by the rotating flywheel, contaminating the flywheel, disc, and pressure plate, resulting in poor clutch engagement.
   
5. Using suitable socket/wrench, loosen bleed screw.
   
   
   Fig. Location of the bleed screw for the 2.4L engine
   
6. Quickly attach hand operated bleed apparatus to bleed screw. Use care not to over-fill reservoir and spill fluid into engine compartment.
7. Operate bleed gun sufficiently to expel air upward through circuit and out of master cylinder reservoir. Fill and empty reservoir three times.
8. Remove bleed apparatus and tighten bleed screw to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
9. Carefully lower the vehicle.
10. Top off reservoir with fluid, then return the cap.
11. Verify system operation. Actuate clutch pedal 50 times. If necessary, repeat procedure until road test confirms that shift issues no longer exist.

sounds like the master cylinder reservoir is empty of fluid. re-fill with fluid and bleed all air out of system all the way to the slave cylinder,,, this will / should restore the system.
also,, check to make sure there is not fluid dripping from under the truck when you press in on the clutch pedal ( could be a leak or bad slave cylinder (?) ),, but I would say that the system just needs to be bled.

c...

on the transmission there is a slave cylinder that works like a brake cylinder, when you apply pressure to the clutch pedal a rod inside the vehicle under the dash pushes into a clutch master cylinder, (almost like a brake master cylinder without the reservoir, as the clutch master cylinder works off the brake master cylinders reservoir) the plunger in the clutch master cylinder applies fluid pressure to the slave cylinder,(located down on the trans near the clutch fork assembly) which projects a piston rod into the clutch fork dis-engaging the clutch. To bleed the clutch slave cylinder locate the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder,break loose so it loosens and tightens easily. Check fluid in brake master cylinder reservoir,fill if needed, while bleeder on the slave cyl is closed have a helper push clutch pedal to floor and back 7-8 times, (At first the clutch might stay at the floor, just pull it up by hand or foot and continue) after several pumps with no rest time push pedal to the floor and hold down with foot pressure, at this time loosen the bleeder on slave untill fluid leaks out, watch for air bubbles, close bleeder and repeat untill there is no sign of air bubbles, (make sure to check fluid in the brake master cylinder and keep fill as needed, do not let fluid get less than 1/2 empty as it might **** air and you will have to start over) If this does not bring clutch to operate then you need to check if slave cylinder is reachig its full extension of push rod or not. If it is not then you will have to replace the clutch master cyl or the clutch slave cyl or both as seals are bad and wont hold pressure. Or you need to inspect the clutch fork,the throw-out bearing, or the pressure plate fingers and clutch plate for failure or broken bent parts. I hope it turns out to be a easy fix on that clutching thing.

You have a hydraulic clutch. It may be that the slave cylinder has been leaking and has run the reservoir dry thus allowing air into the system. Check the fluid level in the reservoir. If empty, look for leak at slave cylinder or elsewhere along the line from the master to the slave. Replace the slave cylinder or otherwise repair the leak, refill the reservoir and bleed the system. Any questions, please reply. I will paste diagram below.

It is most likely a hydraulic clutch, and it is most likely leaking at the clutch slave cylinder. Check the clutch master cylinder for fluid, it should be a small master cylinder looking thing with a fill cap next to the brake master cylinder and booster unit. If it is empty fill it with the same dot 3 brake fluid that you use for your brake master cylinder, and make sure that you are pouring the fluid into the clutch master cylinder reservoir and not the rubber seal that should be under the fill cap. After filling the clutch master cylinder up with fluid, then try and pump up the clutch pedal. It might take a while to pump up hydraulic pressure, and you might also have to work the pedal a few times by hand at first.

Also, you might have to bleed the clutch at the slave cylinder if it will not build up enough pressure to release the clutch.

Check the slave cylinders fluid level in the reservoir It will have a cap on it marked clutch fluid. If empty fill it and pump the clutch 25 times and then try it out. If the leak persist the slave cylinder will need to be replaced

first fill the clutch reservoir with brake fluid.get some body to help you.besure dont let clutch reservoir fluid get low during this procedure.get a clear vinyl tube.connect it to bleeder plug on slave cylinder.put the other end of vinyl tube in a container filled with half clean brake fluid.now get helper to open bleed screw on slave cylinder just a hair.now you pump clutch pedal 10 to 15 times.with out bringing pedal the full way up.do this until you see no air bubbles in vinyl tube.when all air is out.before tighten bleed screw make sure you keep slight pressure on clutch pedal to keep air from going back in line.when job complete clutch pedal fill firm check slave cylinder brake fluid level. check for leaks.you all set to go.

Bleeding the clutch is similar to bleeding brakes. You'd pump the clutch pedal several times to get the pressure up, and then open the bleeder on the slave cylinder (mounted down on the transmission). Repeat and add fluid as needed until no air comes out.

Two things - first off, some cars have more than one bleed point (the Nissan 300ZX is one of those), so be sure there is only the slave cylinder to bleed. Second, if it went right to the floor, something failed - either the slave cylinder or the master cylinder. Changing the slave is relatively easy - usually two bolts and it comes off, you put on a new one, and bleed it as described above. Often the slave cylinder is less than $30, so it's worth it to try changing it if you can't get the pedal to come back off the floor on its own. A clutch master is significantly more expensive and more difficult to change, so start cheap and easy and replace the slave cylinder if you can't pump the pedal to get pressure built up for a bleed.