1999 Mercury Grand Marquis Logo
Posted on May 24, 2011
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Had brakes done 4 wks ago; had them rechecked 7 days ago due to excessive squealing. I was told that I needed new ball joints, upper & lower. $800 later, my brakes still squealed and my left front wheel feels like it clunks over bumps, instead of the usual soft glide. Took it back, they drove it and then told me tires were overinflated and that gave me too much bounce on bumps? Whatever! That didn't help! I don't feel the clunk unless I go over manholes, road ripples, road striping, or other bumps. What should I have them check / fix?

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  • Master 1,056 Answers
  • Posted on May 24, 2011
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Joined: Jun 27, 2009
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The squeal is not caused by the ball joints. A lot of times it is caused by the kind of brake pads put in there or the brake disk needs to be turned. Honestly you should take it to an ase certified shop who knows what they are doing.

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0helpful
1answer

How do I replace upper ball joint

I guess you never used You Tube Video

After Googling your automotive questions,
you go to you tube

You replace the upper control arm with the joint,
on most ford products,only the lower ball joints
can be pressed out & replaced

If your doing the upper joint, do both sides & if
you have to do the uppers, the bottoms are shot
a long time ago,so do all 4 & both wheel hub bearings
if they have a 100,000 on them
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Vibrating steering wheel & pedals

I would replace ALL motor & transxale mounts if they are
over 8 years old
I would suspect, as usual, the shops don't remove rust or lube
a thing on brakes,I would do that Take them apart again
Recheck all work that was done
I would drag the brake while on the gas, when it
vibrates, to turn off the trans torque converter clutch
& see if that is an issue.
Could have a bad axle joint
I would in no way trust any shop to have done
a though job of what your saying.
You most likely have worn inner ties rod joints on the
steering rack,something else to check
What about tie rod ends & ball joints & upper strut bearings?
0helpful
1answer

Have replaced all tie rods; inner&outer;struts&upper mounts;sway bar bushings & links;lower control arms with ball joints& passenger side upper motor mount.none of these have changed this noise even s

What noise? And year and make of car?
A clicking noise on turns is a worn CV joint on the axle shafts. A grinding noise at one of the wheels could be a wheel bearing. Worn brake pads may cause squealing, screeching other high pitched noise.
0helpful
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Clunking?

Retest the fitting and inspect the ball joints again to confirm its not the issue.For that click the help links shown below :----Upper Ball Joints inspection and replacement? http://howtobyme.blogspot.in/2012/02/upper-ball-joints-inspection-and.html How to Test Upper and Lower Ball Joint? http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/12/how-to-test-lower-ball-joint.html How to inspect Upper and Lower Ball joint? http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/12/how-to-inspect-lower-ball-joint.html How to Service Ball Joints on Car? http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/12/how-to-service-lower-ball-joints-on-car.html How to Replace Ball joints? http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/12/how-to-replace-lower-ball-joints.html Lower Ball Joints replacing on car? http://howtobyme.blogspot.in/2012/02/lower-ball-joints-replacing-on.html
--------This will help.Thanks.
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1answer

2002 dodge dakota sxt 2wd got new tires new brakes, calipers, disc, and new upper and lower ball joints but still when i turn a certain degree and apply my brakes a popping noise in the front end occurs...

did you check the upper and lower control arm bushings for excessive wear or movement. also check the inner tie rods on the rack and pinion assembly.
0helpful
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Front right hub and sensor assembly or a diagram

stevenhurc_11.jpg

Removal Steps

1. Torsion bar

2. Wheel speed sensor

(if equipped with ABS)

3. Back plate

4. Lower ball joint

5. Upper ball joint

6. Knuckle assembly

7. Oil seal

8. Thrust washer

9. Needle bearing

10. Knuckle

Installation Steps

10. Knuckle

9. Needle bearing

8. Thrust washer

7. Oil seal

6. Knuckle assembly

5. Upper ball joint

4. Lower ball joint

3. Back plate

2. Wheel speed sensor

(if equipped with ABS)

1. Torsion bar

0helpful
1answer

How to replace lower left front ball joint ?

Removal & Installation NOTE This procedure requires the use of the following special tools: J 9519-E Lower Ball Joint Remover and Installer, J 34874 Booster Seal Remover/Installer, J 41435 Ball Joint Installer, J 45105-1 Ball Joint Flaring Adapter and J 45105-2 Receiver.

  1. On 4WD vehicles, remove the wheel center cap and drive axle nut.
  2. Raise and support the vehicle.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Tire and wheel
    • Wheel hub and bearing, if necessary
    • Outer tie rod retaining nut
    • Out tie rod from the steering knuckle using a suitable puller
    • Brake hose bracket retaining bolts and bracket
    • Upper control arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt and nut
    • Upper control arm from the steering knuckle
    • Lower ball joint retaining nut
    • Steering knuckle from the lower control arm using a suitable ball joint removal tool
    • Steering knuckle from the vehicle
    • Lower ball joint flange with a chisel
  4. Install tools J 9519-E and J 34874 to the lower ball joint, then use those tools to remove the lower ball joint from the lower control arm.
To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Lower ball joint to the lower control arm, using tools J 9519-E, J 41435 and J 45105-2
  2. Remove the tools from the lower control arm.
    • Tools J 9519-E and J 45105-1 to the lower ball joint
  3. Flare the lower ball joint flange with J 9519-E and J 45105-1, then remove the tools from the lower ball joint.
    • Steering knuckle to the lower control arm
    • Lower ball joint retaining nut and tighten to 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm)
    • Upper control arm to the steering knuckle
    • Upper control arm pinch bolt and nut and tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
    • Brake hose bracket to the steering knuckle
    • Brake hose bracket retaining nuts and tighten to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm)
    • Outer tie rod to the steering knuckle
    • Outer tie rod retaining nut and tighten to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm)
    • Wheel hub and bearing, if removed
    • Tire and wheel
  4. Lower the vehicle
    • Drive axle nut, if 4WD, and tighten to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm)
    • Wheel center cap, if removed
  5. Check the front wheel alignment.
1helpful
2answers

1997 mercury cougar pulls to the left when braking. i put on new tires new brake new rotors, and new calipers. thank you, tim

this car needs the lower ball joints checked for excessive play, when pressing the brake pedal the excess play is transferred to the weakest point. the ball joint can be pressed out of the lower control arm or purchased new as a new control arm.
1helpful
1answer

Upper and lower ball joints

It's definitely easier to replace the control arms with the ball joints. I think you may have to buy new upper control arms anyway if they are oe i don't think the upper ones can be pressed out. If you are going to press the ball joints out you do not need to remove the springs or struts. Brake caliper/rotor/hub and knuckle are removed leaving the upper and lower control arms. i would disconnect the abs connector too if it has abs. recommend supporting the vehicle on the frame somewhere. You can buy a ball joint press kit for about 80$ online or use a really big hammer to smack them out. Putting them back in may be a pain without a press.
0helpful
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Upper ball joints/ '89 silverado 1500 4x4

I think the lower ball joints when removing will give you easier access to the top. I would suggest going to the local parts store for a print out of the procedure to be on the safe side.
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