Ford f 550

Pedal, not peddle. First make sure reservoir is full at the brake master cylinder. Then check your brake pads (for disc brakes) and/or brake shoes (for drum brakes). When the pads or shoes are very worn down, you will get a low pedal. If you have disc brakes on the front and drums on the rear wheels, first try just replacing the front brake pads. If you get a good pedal after the front is done, many people tend to let the rear brake shoes go unless they are making noise. These systems are designed to put most of the braking force on the front discs, so the rear shoes do not need changing as often.

Squealing from brakes when applied (and sometimes even when not) is a common issue with many vehicles. There are a number of reasons for it, most often it is the brake shoes/pads themselves. Most manufacturers today install ceramic brake pads as OEM parts, but due to their cost, most drivers opt for semi-metallic pads when replacing them. Most manufacturers recommend anti-squeal shims and/or compound be applied to brake pads for disc systems, but they are often ignored and not installed. Older, sticky calipers can also cause poor release of brake pads, resulting in drag and noise. Lastly, worn, warped, and thin rotors can add to noise issues. Having well serviced, quality brake parts and using proper installation techniques will usually remedy brake noise issues. Just as a side note, residual dirt and grease from the installation itself can cause noisy brakes for a few days/weeks after first install until it is worn off and the pads break in. If you have issue beyond the first two weeks, and you have had them installed professionally, take it back and have them verify that the pads were installed properly.

Most people do not remove the rear rotors and inspect the Emergency Brake shoes. These often peel off the metal backing on the shoe and jam inside the interior Drum of the rotor. Some people will hear a rusty grinding noise after pulling away from a stop.

These brakes have the old "star-wheel" adjusters and may need to be adjusted more loosely to remove the rotor. Its a bad system in my opinion; the drum always rusts and corrodes and the Ebrake shoes are banana peel thin. With corrosion, the drum acts like a grinder and chews up the brake shoes. Some other configurations use a mechanical link on the caliper to make the service brakes act in an Emergency. It will override a hydraulic failure, but you still need good pads on the caliper.

if you replaced all the brake parts I would check your hub bearings and cv axels if the noise is coming from front if the noise is in the rear check your e brake shoes located inside of the rear brake rotors if u have disc rear brakes or your rear brake bearings .. hope this helps

Most probabally the rear brakes are worn off. Take the wheels and brake drums off and check.

Hi:

Your Masre Cylinder needs bled or its only working for front r back:

#2- To much shoe to Drum Brake Clearance

NOT THIS IS FOR 4WD 5.7L
Brake Relining

• Brake linings that are worn to within 1/32 inch (0.79 mm) of a rivet head or that have been contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil must be replaced.

Potential brake shoe problems. Courtesy of Wagner Brake Products.

• Failure to replace worn linings results in a scored drum. When it is necessary to replace brake shoes, they must also be replaced on the wheel on the opposite side of the vehicle. Inspect brake shoes for distortion, cracks, or looseness. If these conditions exist, the shoe must be discarded.
• Do not let brake fluid, oil, or grease touch the brake lining.
• If a brake lining kit is used to replace the linings, follow the instructions in the kit and install all the parts provided.
• The two general methods of attaching the linings to the brake shoes are bonding and riveting.
• The bonded linings are fastened with a special adhesive to the shoe, clamped in place, then cured in an oven. Instead of using an adhesive, some linings are riveted to the shoe.
• Riveted linings allow for better heat transfer than bonded linings.

Drum Shoe and Brake Installation

• Before installing the shoes, be sure to sand or stone the inner edge of the shoe to dress down any slight lining or metal nicks and burrs that could interfere with the sliding upon the support pads.
• A support (backing) plate must be tight on its mount and not bent. Stone the shoe support pads brightly and dress down any burrs or grooves that could cause the shoes to bind or hang up.
• Using an approved lubricant, lightly coat the support pads and the threads of servo star wheel adjusters. On rear axle parking brakes, lubricate any point of potential binding in the linkage and the cable. Do not lubricate nonservo brake adjusters other than to free a frozen adjuster with penetrating oil.

The areas or pads where the brake show will rub or contact the backing plate.

• Reassemble the brakes in the reverse order of disassembly. Make sure all parts are in their proper locations and that both brake shoes are properly positioned in either end of the adjuster.
• Also, both brake shoes should correctly engage the wheel cylinder pushrods and parking brake links.
• They should be centered on the backing plate. Parking brake links and levers should be in place on the rear brakes.
• With all of the parts in place, replace the brake drum.

• Brake linings that are worn to within 1/32 inch (0.79 mm) of a rivet head or that have been contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil must be replaced.

Potential brake shoe problems. Courtesy of Wagner Brake Products.

• Failure to replace worn linings results in a scored drum. When it is necessary to replace brake shoes, they must also be replaced on the wheel on the opposite side of the vehicle. Inspect brake shoes for distortion, cracks, or looseness. If these conditions exist, the shoe must be discarded.
• Do not let brake fluid, oil, or grease touch the brake lining.
• If a brake lining kit is used to replace the linings, follow the instructions in the kit and install all the parts provided.
• The two general methods of attaching the linings to the brake shoes are bonding and riveting.
• The bonded linings are fastened with a special adhesive to the shoe, clamped in place, then cured in an oven. Instead of using an adhesive, some linings are riveted to the shoe.
• Riveted linings allow for better heat transfer than bonded linings.

Drum Shoe and Brake Installation

• Before installing the shoes, be sure to sand or stone the inner edge of the shoe to dress down any slight lining or metal nicks and burrs that could interfere with the sliding upon the support pads.
• A support (backing) plate must be tight on its mount and not bent. Stone the shoe support pads brightly and dress down any burrs or grooves that could cause the shoes to bind or hang up.
• Using an approved lubricant, lightly coat the support pads and the threads of servo star wheel adjusters. On rear axle parking brakes, lubricate any point of potential binding in the linkage and the cable. Do not lubricate nonservo brake adjusters other than to free a frozen adjuster with penetrating oil.

The areas or pads where the brake show will rub or contact the backing plate.

• Reassemble the brakes in the reverse order of disassembly. Make sure all parts are in their proper locations and that both brake shoes are properly positioned in either end of the adjuster.
• Also, both brake shoes should correctly engage the wheel cylinder pushrods and parking brake links.
• They should be centered on the backing plate. Parking brake links and levers should be in place on the rear brakes.
• With all of the parts in place, replace the brake drum.

If you've never had the brake pads/shoes replaced, it's probably the metal backing of the pads grinding against the brake rotors -- metal on metal. You need to have the brakes checked, and if this is the case, will need to replace the pads/shoes and rotors/drums.

Take tires off then inspect rear brake shoes if okay and not down to the metal service the drums with sand paper and put them back on you might have to replace the drums and shoes!