Front passenger brake locked up roter got hot -after it cooled off-seems to be ok for now-do hose clamps have anythingto do with resricting the fluid to the brakes

Calipers do not retain brake fluid, you apply the brake ...the pressure is transmitted to the cylinders in the calipers and they act on the pads

Sounds like you need a braking system diagnostic of you are losing brake fluid and experiencing lock up. Sounds like it should be looked into immediately .....just in case

Your vehicle should have rear drum brakes...They have to be adjusted manually for correct adjustment...People say they self adjust but it is not good enough....by adjusting the rear it will decrease the pressure on the front and deliver equal braking...This will help eliminate caliper pressure overload....I'm not saying that is your caliper problem but it is insult to injury and will save the life of front brakes.....Now your caliper problem..FYI..A rule of thumb is anytime you change a caliper you should always replace both calipers to have identical braking pressure".The same with brake hoses and rear wheel cylinders.....The caliper that froze in the first place got hot and boiled the brake fluid and quite possibly partially collapsed the caliper brake line/hose inside as Clint and Frank stated....I am going to guess that the first caliper froze under normal conditions however got hot enough to internally damage the caliper line/hose...Then you may think of the pressure regulator being bad in which case could be a problem......So this is what you do".Since we know the left front caliper line/hose has been exposed to heat it needs to be replaced anyway...also the fluid was boiled and it needs to be changed / bled...The new caliper that froze should be ok unless it was bad off the shelf which is rare but possible."..Change the line/hose,bleed the brake system and let the mechanic test drive before you pay and leave..The mechanic will know before driving if the new caliper that froze is bad or not by rotating the wheel...This is the cheapest way...And you will know if the pressure regulator is bad or not just by bleeding system........I hope this helps....."Brooks/Metalpoet....."....

I have the same problem few days ago, and still didn't find any solution. Can any one please help?????4

I`ve had this problem on a different vehicle. Turns out the front brake caliper gets jammed up. After it cools off it will be ok for awhile. Be careful because when the brake fluid gets really hot from the friction and you hit the brakes, they won`t work so you need to check this as soon as possible.

Sounds like you might have air in the brake system. You will need to bleed the brakes to remove air. Start with the passenger back wheel. use a small hose and submerge the end in a glass bottle filled 1/3 full of brake fluid. The other end goes on the nipple of the brake bleeder. Have someone pump the brakes and then hold the pedal down then loosen the bleeder. then tighten the bleeder. you should see bubbles in the brake fluid. Keep repeating this procedure until you see no bubbles. You might have to put as much as 1 quart of brake fluid thru each wheel to remove air. Then you do the driver side rear followed bypassenger side front and finally driver side front

you could have a brake hose that has a piece of rubber making a flapper valve that causes brakes to stay on.or the proportioning valve has gone bad on you. if the brakes were notmush before you changed the hydralic stuff then perhaps bleeding was done incorrectly. just open one bleeder at a time and let it drip a few minutes then go to the next. make sure mast. cyl. doesnt go dry

If you open the brake fluid bleeder on that caliper you should have brake fluid dripping out. If not it could be the rubber flex hose has collapsed.If fluid drips out then the caliper is sticking and should be rebuilt or replaced.

its common for older calipers to lock up. try cleaning the slides and lubing them. also when the calipers are off make sure the piston moves by depressing it all the way in. then drive again.

also very rare but you could have a bad brake hose causing pressure to stay inbetween the colapsed hose and caliper. this will keep a slight pressure on the side with a bad hose. but not so common like i said.. checking a bad hose by removing hose from caliper side. fluid should continue to flow out. if nothing flows out after 2 or 3 minutes you have a resriction somewhere. then remove hose from the hard line to see if fluid flows from the brake line. if fluid flows from brake line you have a bad hose. if fluid still does not flow from brake line you have other issues before the brake line. could be bad master.check master the saem way you check hose hopefully its easy. GOOD LUCK

Michael
ASE certified
plz rate

Ok Have you recently replaced the pads? Do they act normal after they cool down? Are the pads in good condition, pads that are so worn that the caliper pistons come out beond their normal limit may stick there due to excessively worn pads. If so make sure they are at least factory grade quality Good are bendix, the only thing that can cause your symptoms is a bad master cylinder because it affects BOTH front calipers equally if it was a caliper it is likely to affect only ONE. Let me ask you this happens after driving in heavy traffic or after along drive?
If So there have been countless cases of boiling brake fluid, Old Brake Fluid gathers moisture and its boiling point is lowered, Fluch out ALL the old brake fluid and have new put it.

also is there any chance even the slightest chance that something other than brake fluid even a drop or two is enough to do damage. has been added to the master cylinder at any time? If so you need to replace EVERY PART IN THE BRAKE SYSTEM INCLUDING THE ABS CONTROLLER THAT HAS ANY RUBBER PIECES IN IT CALIPERS HOSES WHEEL CYLINDERS,MASTER CYLINDER just for your information.
I believe you have a bad master cylinder but do not buy a rebuilt one only bran new and preferably from the dealer.
Please contact me if you need more help and would you give me a good rating if you feel my information is helpful.
Thank you ,Randy

28-DEC-08
Sometimes (when changing the brake calipers on disk brakes, or changing wheel cylinders on drum brake systems) the mechanic will clamp a vise grip pliers on the rubber hose to prevent hydraulic fluid from dripping out.  This can break the internal fiber lining in the rubber hose.  Then the fluid flow can be blocked.  When you press the brake pedal, fluid may not flow to the wheel or wheels.  As you press harder, the fluid may suddenly flow through the line, causing the brakes to suddenly activate.  
Or an even more likely problem, your brakes drag (stay on) and get hot, because the fluid cannot flow back to the master cylinder when you release the brake pedal.  In other words, when you press the brake you force fluid through a partially blocked rubber hose.  But the return of the fluid (backwards through the rubber hose) is caused not by pressure, but just by equilibrium, a balancing act.  Well, if the line (rubber hose) is blocked, the fluid stays in the caliper or wheel cylinder, and the brake is still on, and the brake gets hot.  
Ken   Camas, Washington [email protected]