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Anonymous Posted on Jun 16, 2017

I need instructions on how to install the smog pump and the tools i'd need and how to take it off first. i've cut the belt off cause it was making a terrible noise. it is the one that is only for the airconditioner and smog pump. the smog pump locked up so i bought a new one and the belt. i just need all the help i can get to learn how to put it on. i'm a 53 yr old woman and know zilch about cars so it would have to be instructions for idiot proof thank you

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Steve P

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  • Ford Master 3,912 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 16, 2017
Steve P
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Hey Cheryl,
This is not a hard replacement... If you have the tools.. you can accomplish this!!! IF you live in a state that requires emissions test you must replace the A.I.R. (smog) pump.. IF you live in a state that does not require emissions tests(or ever checks).. you might be able to simply bypass this pump and get a belt that only drives the A/C. They make an air pump eliminator pulley for the air pump for the 5.0 & 5.8 size engines. Depending on the state you live in you can eliminate the pump and use the stock belt. This will eliminate the smog pump for either a 302ci or 351ci engine.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Proform/778/68110/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710779379&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=44693592161&CATCI=pla-221368438391&CATARGETID=230006180039218016&cadevice=c&gclid=CO-3w4O6w9QCFdqIswodEI8B8A
(Seen this done on more than one occasion!)..
.OR - You can ask one of your neighbors to help - I would ask around first.. - ask at the place you purchase the belt. First - I suggest taking pictures of everything you are going to replace.and all the pump mounting bolts, the attachments mounting bolts, ..everything that is going to be removed and re-installed.. You can take masking tape and label each part..or put them in baggies and label them..number them, name them... make a list... just do it in detail..
Cheryl, please reply to me and we'll work through this...

Marvin

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  • Ford Master 85,242 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 16, 2017
Marvin
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Here is a video link to removing the Air injection pump (AKA Smog Pump). As far as tools go you will need a full set of standard hand tools. Smog pump delete Ford 302 5 0 Crown Victoria LTD

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SOURCE: i need instructions on how to put a locksmart switch ingnition

this not something that a back-yard mechanic should tackle

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Anonymous

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  • Posted on Apr 08, 2009

SOURCE: Squealing Smog Control Belt in Humid Climate

I will list some of my experiences with similar problems.

V-belt quality and grade vary a lot and I do mean a lot. Belts can take a set from sitting--anybody with a table saw will attest to this. I would try a new belt first after finding a good parts man. A good alternator shop (rare today) can help here. The smog pump belt is an easy one to change. Try the cheap stuff first.

Smog pumps in my experience do not need a lot of power, especially at idle, but I have had bearing and pump failure on several wipe out a belt. Pull the belt and spin the smog pump by hand.

Belts can glaze and it is not necessarily noticeable. Stamped-steel pulleys polish smooth and won't transmit the power needed. Pulleys can also wear in some strange shapes so a new belt does not fit properly. See if an alternator shop has a cast iron pulley for the alternator. Cast iron does not polish smooth and also wears off any glaze from the belt surfaces. The crank pulleys are stamped-steel but are larger in diameter with a longer wrap angle so slippage is not a problem there.

In my poor days I tried sanding the belts and pulleys to remove the glaze. Too much work and it was only temporary.

I have used a cast iron pulley on a 110 amp alternator with a winch load. A stamped-steel pulley would just smoke the belt when under load (winch drew 225 amps total!). My truck is 70 amp and that is the biggest alternator Ford has with a V-belt that I know of.

I considered removing my smog pump and associated hardware. My experience has been to leave everything intact unless I can replace everything with an earlier, non-smog engine. Doing everything piecemeal has just caused other problems.

Hope this helps.

Anonymous

  • 84 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 16, 2009

SOURCE: Uninstall/Reinstall Alternator on a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 3.0 V6

You can go to autozone.com and type in all your vehicle information. the choose the alternator in the buy parts section. there is a link on the side that will either say how to or repair. click on that it will have a diagram showing you how to do it. hope that helps.

Paul Hutchinson

  • 909 Answers
  • Posted on May 03, 2009

SOURCE: fuel pump noise smell gas while car is running 92 mustang

the pump should stop when it builds up to the correct pressure. if it continues to pump and you smell fuel then you probably have a fuel leek. normally fuel consumption will increase with a leek, even slightly.

Anonymous

  • 1865 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 19, 2009

SOURCE: installed a new timing belt. Old timing belt broke

not timed right. You have to remove the plug, and insert a straw through the spark plug hole so that you can see when the piston is all the way up

Testimonial: "I would have not thought of that. I put a compression test on #1 and thought I had it on tdc. the straw is a great way to be sure. I got it runnin"

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Maybe you did this but just in case:

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Hi, I have pasted instructions below from autozone.com. The instructions call for the use of special tools. You can improvise with alternate tools, but please make sure your timing is right before closing the cover. Please let me know if you have questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

1.9L Diesel Engine
Some special tools are required to perform this procedure properly. A flat bar, VW tool 2065A is used to secure the camshaft in position. A pin, VW tool 2064 is used to fix the pump position while the timing belt is removed. The camshaft and pump work against spring pressure and will move out of position when the timing belt is removed. It is not difficult to find substitutes but do not remove the timing belt without these tools.

WARNING Do not turn the engine or camshaft with the timing belt removed. The pistons will contact the valves and cause internal engine damage.
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable and remove the accessory drive belts, crankshaft pulley and the timing belt cover(s). Remove the camshaft cover and rubber plug at the back end of the camshaft.
  2. Temporarily reinstall the crankshaft pulley bolt and turn the crankshaft to Top Dead Center (TDC) of No. 1 piston. The mark on the camshaft sprocket should be aligned with the mark on the inner timing belt cover or the edge of the cylinder head.
  3. With the engine at TDC, insert the bar into the slot at the back of the camshaft. The bar rests on the cylinder head to will hold the camshaft in position.
  4. Insert the pin into the injection pump drive sprocket to hold the pump in position.
  5. Loosen the locknut on the tensioner pulley and turn the tensioner counterclockwise to relieve the tension on the timing belt. Slide the timing belt from the sprockets.

    jturcotte_1820.gif

    Fig. Use the VW tool to lock the camshaft at TDC for timing belt replacement-Volkswagen 1.9L Diesel engines


    jturcotte_1821.gif

    Fig. Locking the injection pump with the VW tool as shown-Volkswagen 1.9L Diesel engines


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  2. Remove the holding tools.
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  4. Install the belt cover and accessory drive belts.
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Don Fitzpatrick Washington, Ok.
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Squealing Smog Control Belt in Humid Climate

I will list some of my experiences with similar problems.

V-belt quality and grade vary a lot and I do mean a lot. Belts can take a set from sitting--anybody with a table saw will attest to this. I would try a new belt first after finding a good parts man. A good alternator shop (rare today) can help here. The smog pump belt is an easy one to change. Try the cheap stuff first.

Smog pumps in my experience do not need a lot of power, especially at idle, but I have had bearing and pump failure on several wipe out a belt. Pull the belt and spin the smog pump by hand.

Belts can glaze and it is not necessarily noticeable. Stamped-steel pulleys polish smooth and won't transmit the power needed. Pulleys can also wear in some strange shapes so a new belt does not fit properly. See if an alternator shop has a cast iron pulley for the alternator. Cast iron does not polish smooth and also wears off any glaze from the belt surfaces. The crank pulleys are stamped-steel but are larger in diameter with a longer wrap angle so slippage is not a problem there.

In my poor days I tried sanding the belts and pulleys to remove the glaze. Too much work and it was only temporary.

I have used a cast iron pulley on a 110 amp alternator with a winch load. A stamped-steel pulley would just smoke the belt when under load (winch drew 225 amps total!). My truck is 70 amp and that is the biggest alternator Ford has with a V-belt that I know of.

I considered removing my smog pump and associated hardware. My experience has been to leave everything intact unless I can replace everything with an earlier, non-smog engine. Doing everything piecemeal has just caused other problems.

Hope this helps.

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