Clutch pedal adjustments, clutch adjustments, at times to shift hard

The adjuster needs to be reset. It should then automatically readjust to provide the proper amount of clutch pedal travel.

Sounds like the clutch cable needs adjustment so that the clutch is completely disengaged for shifting. Being a hydraulic clutch operation system there is no adjustment I'm afraid bar pedal height at the master cylinder push rod to pedal and that wouldn't solve the problem - as over all adjustment generally occurs as the clutch wears..so a good clutch would bite in the region of between the floor and mid way on the clutch pedal travel..if bite point is flat to floor then it possible you have drag on the clutch or its not clearing properly either a fault on the release system/hydraulic side either weak slave/master cylinder "prob try to bleed through again maybe and see if any improvement is felt"..or defective drive plate, buckled plate,weak pressure plate which releases the friction plate or seizure on spines/seized spigot bearing all of which would require inspection with the gearbox out. Hope this helps.

The clutch is not adjustable it is fully hydraulic. That means it is self adjusting, if the clutch pedal engages high on the pedal and the clutch is hard to push you need a new clutch plate and pressure plate.

MULTI-MODE MANUAL TRANSAXLE SYSTEM ADJUSTMENT
1. USING INTELLIGENT TESTER: CLAMP POSITIONADJUSTMENT (CLUTCH POSITIONADJUSTMENT)
Tech Tips
The multi-mode manual transmission system has a load controlled clutch cover (adjustment system). The pressure plate moves depending on the wear
condition of the clutch disc lining.
When removing or installing any parts related to the multi-mode manual transmission system, move the clutch actuator to the clutch clamp position. This is
for normal operation of the load controlled clutch cover (adjustment system).
If the clutch position adjustment operation input fails, perform the operation again from step (a) more than 15 seconds after turning the ignition switch off.
Note
Do not depress the brake pedal while performing the clamp position adjustment using an intelligent tester.
a. Prepare the vehicle:
Stop the vehicle.
Shift the lever into the N position.
Turn the ignition switch off.
Apply the parking brake.
b. Connect the intelligent tester to the DLC3.c. Turn the ignition switch on (IG).
d. Turn the intelligent tester ON.
e. Select the following menu items: Powertrain / Multi-Mode M/T / Utility / Parts Exchange.
f. Read the information.
g. Press the Next key.
h. Read the information.i. After checking the vehicle condition, press the Next key.
j. Read the information.
k. Press the Next key.
l. Read the information.m. Press the Next key.
n. On the Multi-Mode M/T / Utility screen, select Step 1 Clutch Position Adjustment (Clamp Position Adjustment).
o. Press the Next key.
p. Read the information.q. Press the Next key.
r. Complete Clutch Position Adjustment.
s. Turn the intelligent tester OFF.
t. Turn the ignition switch off.
u. Replace the malfunctioning parts.
Tech Tips
Perform [Initialization and Learning] after repairing the multi-mode manual transmission control system .
2. WITHOUT USING INTELLIGENT TESTER: CLAMP POSITIONADJUSTMENT (CLUTCH POSITIONADJUSTMENT)
Tech Tips
The multi-mode manual transmission system has a load controlled clutch cover (adjustment system). The pressure plate moves depending on the wear
condition of the clutch disc lining.
When removing or installing any parts related to the multi-mode manual transmission system, move the clutch actuator to the clutch clamp position. This is
for normal operation of the load controlled clutch cover (adjustment system).
If the clutch position adjustment operation input fails, perform the operation again from step (a) more than 15 seconds after turning the ignition switch off.a. Prepare the vehicle.
Stop the vehicle.
Shift the lever into the N position.
Turn the ignition switch off.
Apply the parking brake.
b. Using SST, connect terminals TC and CG of the DLC3
SST
09843-18040
c. Turn the ignition switch on (IG) with the brake pedal released.
d. Depress the brake pedal 7 times or more within 3 seconds.i. The buzzer sounds twice with an interval of 0.25 seconds.
e. Depress the brake pedal.
f. Shift the shift lever in the following sequence with the brake pedal depressed: N?E?M?+?M?+?M?+?M?+?M?E?N.
g. Release the brake pedal.
h. Depress the brake pedal again.i. The buzzer sounds at intervals of 0.5 seconds as follows (an interval of 2.5 seconds exists between each cycle).
Once when adjusting the clutch clamp position (one cycle)
Tech Tips
If the buzzer does not sound at this time, wait at least 15 seconds after turning the ignition switch off. Then, perform the procedure from step
(a) again.
i. Depress the brake pedal 3 times or more within 2 seconds.
i. The buzzer sounds twice with an interval of 0.25 seconds.
j. Depress the brake pedal.
k. Shift the shift lever to the [-] position with the brake pedal depressed.
l. Release the brake pedal.
m. Complete clutch position adjustment.
n. Turn the ignition switch off and wait at least 10 seconds.
o. Disconnect the SST from terminals TC and CG of the DLC3.
p. Repair the malfunctioning parts.Tech Tips
Perform [Initialization and Learning] after repairing the multi-mode manual transmission control system .

There are 2 different vehicles listed on your question. One is a Chevy Blazer, the other is a 2007 Ford Focus. Don't know which is the problem.

Is this a automatic or a stick shift? I will give you the information about an automatic Ford Focus.

The gearshift is locked into Park until you press on the brake pedal. Sometimes for stick shifts, the clutch pedal has the release. Either way, the release signal unlocks the gearshift. The position of the switch on either the brake pedal lever or clutch lever can be bumped by the Drivers feet.

These switches as well as the release on the gearshift must be aligned (timed), adjusted, etc. so that they work properly. Sometimes this is as simple as looking under the dash and securing the loose switch back on its holder on either the brake pedal or clutch lever.

The other part of this question can be internal to the transmissions or binding in the shift cables or rods.

Somewhere here I hope you have the answer you needed the first time it was answered.

Yes. You can adjust the clutch rod inside the car at the clutch pedal. loosen the 12mm jam nut and unscrew the rod 2 turns at a time and test clutch operation each time.Repeat as necessary. dont forget to retighten the jam nut. Good luck! Scott

Try to double clutch the clutch pedal. How to double clutch; push the clutch in moving the stick to neutral, then release the clutch and then push it back in and shift into first or second gear. If it works then it is not the shift linkage and could be a clutch adjustment. First how far do you have to release the clutch pedal until the clutch plate starts to engage? If only an inch or so the clutch pedal needs to be adjusted, which is an easy fix (this is more common). The other possible problems could be the clutch plate, throwout bearing of syncros could be bad. If it is one of the previous problems double clutching should buy you some time.

Sometimes the slave cylinder takes a little extra bleeding to remove the air in it & until it's all gone, the clutch won't open completely, causing the problem you are describing.

If the shifting can be done between all of the gears while the engine isn't running on level ground then the forks should be ok & not bent inside the transmission and you should be able to get the car to shift properly.

I've done several of these and found that if you start by making sure the Clutch Master cylinder is full, and remember when you add fluid, try to add without aerating the fluid. Pouring down the side of a funnel is better than pouring straight into the container as fluid picks up air during the splash. Hopefully doing it this way will prevent small new air bubbles from getting back into the lines when bleeding.

Next, after having one person pump the clutch pedal quickly 3 or 4 times & continuing to hold the pedal to the floor until you've completed this phase, instead of just releasing the pressure through the bleeder valve, also push on the clutch fork/rod to go ahead & force the fluid completely out of the slave cylinder, tighten the bleeder and have the assistant slowly pump the pedal to bring the slave cylinder back into contact to where it was before you pushed it to drain it. Refill & bleed as usual a couple of times. If you don't have a good clutch pedal now with good release, you need to check the Clutch Master Cyliinder since once the bleeding is done, this is a completely automatically adjusting system. good luck

yes you can adjust the clutch unless it is already adjusted as far as it can be then you may have to replace it

how does the clutch pedal feel?..clutch out of adjustment,needs clutch job...kev-mn.