I HAVE 1991 TORYOTA PREVIA IT WONT START ATALL, ALREADY CHECH ROTOR, ROTOR CAP, SPARK PLUGS, WIRES, DISTRIBUTOR.IGNITER, EVERY THING SEEMS TO BE OK

The best i can say is check to be sure the distributor is turning.I am assuming that when you say you replaced the distributor that indeed you replaced the entire thing.(not just cap) Take cap off turn engine over and have someone watch to be sure rotor is turning. IF you haven't already check for voltage (12) going to coil .

It could be a fuel problem, the pickup coil in the bottom of the distributor, or the ignition module among other things.
Someone would need to figure out if the ignition system is causing the problem or if one of the injectors is failing.

Often a sign of faulty plug wires or cap and rotor.
The moisture makes the spark jump around too much.

Check the plug wire from the ignition coil to the distributor cap.
If you haven't already, replace the distributor cap and rotor.
The GM Vortec's have issues with moisture getting inside the cap and rotor and causing problems.

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_00b31cc8f593773a

This diagram is for 1998-1995 Chevy 6 cylinder 4.3L engines.
Your got the firing order exactly correct, at 1-6-5-4-3-2, but here's the thing to double-check:
The distributor rotation is clockwise (note badly rendered arrow in picture).





Since you probably got everything right, then you're left with really unusual/rare causes of
failure of the ignition system:
(a) rotor button misaligned/failing to make contact?
(b) rotor button not pressed onto distributor shaft far enough therefore failing to provide correct
proximity to distributor cap contacts when coil fires
(c) coil wire or contact loose/disconnected - press coil wire firmly down into distributor cap.
(d) distributor shaft of other damage caused during installation of rotor.
(e) spark plug wires defective from factory
(f) spark plugs defective from factory
(g) battery low - may need a charge to start
(h) ICM (ignition control module) failure - hook up your HEI (high energy ignition) tester, and
watch the quality of the spark on each cylinder.
(i) fuel problem? If spark is being properly delivered, its gotta be a fuel problem...
(j) distributor cap not screwed down flush to top of distributor? maybe just on one side?

Inspect the inside of the distributor cap - if there are lots of little metal bits all over the inside
of the distributor cap, then you know you have a misalignment of some type in there, and the
rotor and cap are destroying each other. normal operation will throw a quota of spark-ed off
metal bits inside the distributor cap, but since your cap is brand new, your attempts to start
the engine should have rotated the distributor so few times, you should see no metal debris.

Inspect the distributor cap contacts to see if any spark marks are more of less in the middle
of the cap's proper "contact zone". If not, you've diagnosed an internal misalignment, which
you know how to correct.

Hello first of all

In reading your issue at hand not having no spark there is only a few things that can cause this being that its a 1988 car i will list below what you need to go over and check.

1.spark plug wires
2. distributor cap
3. ignition rotor
4. coil pick up
5. faulty distributor

That being said most are a easy and cheap fix plug wires run about 20-35 bucks autozones duralast brand , distributor cap runs between 7-18 bucks , ignition rotor 3-8 bucks , coil pick up about 15-30 bucks all at autozone.

Now there is no real way to tell if there bad but a good examination of the distributor cap and rotor should tell you corroded inside cracked worn down.

i would start with distributor cap , ignition rotor, coil pick up if the car starts after this replace spark plugs wires. If that does not fix it most likely you distributor is faulty itself.

i hope it helps if so could you leave me so 4 thumbs up feedback thanks so much

you need to replace the fuel sock in the tank and the fuel filte and do a tuneup wires plugs and cap.

Here are a couple of things that could be causing your problem. 1. Bad ignition coil or ignition module 2. Clogged fuel filter 3. Clogged air filter 4. Clogged fuel injectors 5. Bad spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and /or rotor. 6. Broken timing chain/belt. Here are a few things you can try to verify that you have a good spark. 1. Remove the distributor cap and crank the car. If the rotor turned you're ok. If it doesn't turn then that's you're problem and you will probably need to change a timing belt/chain. 2. Check the spark from the ignition coil by pulling the coil wire from the center of the distributor. Use an alligator clip to attach a short wire to the coil wire contact. Bare the other end of this short wire and set it up so it's sitting very close to the engine block. Turn off the lights and try to start the car. You should see a spark jump from this wire to the block. If you don't see a spark it's likely your ignition module or ignition coil is bad. 3. If you have a spark maybe it's not getting to the plugs. You may need to replace the distributor cap and rotor. You can test if the plugs are sparking by pulling one, re-attaching the spark plug wire and seeing if you get a spark when you try to start the engine in the dark. Please note, the metal threads of the spark plug need to be shorted to the engine block to complete the circuit during this test.

Possibly the crank sensor.

I had the same problem recently but replacing the ignition Coil under the distributor (inside) solved the problem. Also replaced the distributor Cap and rotor at the same time.