Poor quality tyres aren't round and it is a waste of time trying to balance them. I doubt that is the problem here but it is worth knowing.
Such a vibration could have several causes from brakes to drive shafts (FWD) through shock absorbers. There is no easy answer and only hands-on checking everything thoroughly will reveal the culprit.
It would be worth asking an experienced person to go for a drive and express an opinion.
SOURCE: steering whel vibration isuzu bighorn 3.1d 1992 auto
Some SUV's have a steering damper. This is like a telescopic shock absorber that is attached to the steering idler arm at one end and the chassis at the other. If the bighorn has one this may be the cause of the problem. It took me months to find a severe steering vibration problem on a Range Rover. I replaced the damper, which was quite inexpensive, and the problem went away.
SOURCE: Honda Accord 2003 - Engine and steering vibration
You might to have a tire shop check the wheel for roundness, not balance. A tire can be balanced and be out of round, causing the shaking you describe. On front wheel drive cars, the wheel/hub assembly may be bad, which a good tire shop can tell you if it is. Can't say if it will be expensive, the hub is relatively inexpensive. Labor will probably be the deal-breaker.
SOURCE: BMW vibration in steering even after alignment, balance and control arm replacement.
Does it vibrate all the time at 60 or only when you apply the brake?
SOURCE: 1995 Ford Crown Victoria - shakes/vibrates @ highway speeds.
Alignment has alot to do with the tires not shimmying.. Like zero toe setting. Loose componants like tie rod ends and the idler ar worn. You can ck for excess front end play by holding the front and back of the wheel and pushing and pulling on it, like rocking it. OR have someone rock the steering while you watch where the play is from underneath. By rocking I mean turn the steering wheel back and forth. Look at all th joints and pivot points for excess play, which is, movement not immediate to the rest of the steering system. Tire balance is very important. Wheel hop is a sign of a bad tire and it overtaxes the shock absorber. Shocks don't cause shimmy because they are a vertical movement controlA shimmy is lateral or side to side.Wheel balance weights must be spit. If a 2 oz. weight is needed to balance the tire, Oe once should be on the inside of the wheel and one ounce on the outside directly across from each outher.. Loose wheel brgs will cause shimmy, but they would not last long. Caster setting on the wheel alignment will also cause shimmy. Like on a shopping car. too much caster causes the wheel to start fluttering and is very hard on other componants. This may be why you have worn tie rod ends and a bad pitman arm. Worn control arm bushings and ball joints directly affect titre wear and can only be feltwhen the front end hits a dip and detected by side wear on the tire edges. Summary: replace the tie rod end and have the car aligned. Good Luck, -Ned_ sorry about the book
SOURCE: Just had new front tyres
what make of tyres have you had fitted ,because it sounds like they are from poland and they are rejects that are sold for farm trailors that only go around the farms .They are deformed so they are rejects that are ok for a farm but no good for teh road i would advise you to return to garage and ask them to fit michelin or hankook then iam sure your problem will disappear
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