1980 Toyota Crown ignition coil wiring

Question edited for a lot more clarity.

You tell us everything except the MODEL.

The search query for this is simply

1993 Toyota (model) ignition wiring diagram

https://www.google.com/search?q=1993+Toyota+Pickup+2.4+with+22R+Engine.+connector+from+the+coil+to+distributor+wiring

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what you should have in the electronic distributor is an ignition module with a coil outside wired to the distributor. The ignition module creates the pulses needed for the coil to generate extreme high voltage . If that coil is incorrect voltage for the system then it is most probably overheating and failing to work. There are to voltage coils that can be used . One is a straight 12 volt coil that starts and runs on 12 volts and the other is a start on 12 and runs on 7.5 volts with the run circuit going through a resistor or resistor wire . Check out which coil should be in your car and if correct (7.5) check the voltage to the coil with a multimeter and it be should read 7.5 volts when the ignition is in the run position

We do not have wiring digrams here but you can access them and all the factory service information here for a small fee.

You need to do a test on the electronic engine control system for fault codes and check the fuel pressure. To do the fault code test and see the code definitions go here. The single biggest issues with this year are the ignition module on the distributor and the distributor pickup coil inside the distributor..

I believe the black wire goes to the negative side of the coil,and the black/orange goes to a "hot with key on"source.

Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome. For a tune up, you would need to change spark plugs, coils, distributor cap, coil pack, and wires. You would change the air filter and the fuel filter also. Change your pcv valve as well. You can also change all your fluids and filters, such as oil, coolant fluid, and transmission fluid.

There are two possible answers. One with a distributor and one with the electronic distributorless ignition system. I'll put both here, starting with the distributor style first.

1) remove the negative cable from battery
2) remove the wires from the primary terminals on the coil (if there is only one, then remove that one)
3) unplug the secondary coil lead
4) remove the bolts and mounting bracket.
Do the same in reverse order to install new part
DISTIBUTORLESS SYSTEM
1) disconnect negative cable from battery
2) remove coil wires from each coil pack (Do NOT just grab and pull the wires off, use the locking tabs, push them in, twist and pull the wires off)
3) remove the bolts and bracket

When you replace the system or spark plug wires, using dielectric grease is a good idea.

On distributorless models, make sure you have the wires connected to the proper coil using the firing order as a reference. Firing order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8

Tip: Mark and label the wires so you do not mix them up

If your engine cranks normally but will not start and cuts off because it has no spark, or it stalls and won't restart because it has no spark, the problem may be due to any of the following:
A bad pickup inside the distributor a stripped distributor drive gear (common problem with plastic distributor drive gears, broken, loose or corroded wires from the pickup to the ignition module or PCM.
If there is power going from the coil to the dist, but no spark coming out of the dist. the Condenser is bad. Small round thing that has a wire that hooks to the points. If the engine has no spark, check for voltage at the coil positive terminal when the ignition key is on.
If there is voltage, the problem is on the trigger side of the coil (pickup, crank sensor, ignition module or primary wiring circuit).
If there is NO voltage at the coil, the problem is on the supply side (the ignition switch or ignition wiring circuit).
If the coil has voltage, the problem may be a bad high voltage output wire from the coil to the distributor, hairline cracks in the coil output tower, or cracks or carbon tracks inside the distributor cap or on the rotor.You can check this with voltmeter.------------------
That's it.

This sounds more like an ignition problem if you have the service manual that came with the truck it has diagnostics to check your coil, igniter, distributor, wires etc.. also you may want to look at your coil wire going to the distributor and if there is an in-line resistor replace the wire as the resistor is probably bad and when it heats up it interupts voltage to the distributor, wires, plugs etc.. when it cools down it will work for a while-- probably more often when the ambient air temperature is hot or above 90 degrees farenheit.

this is easy if you can find parts meant for it. Need a distributor, a crank sensor and pulley with a reference point for the sensor, a control module, coil, cap, rotor, wires, and you should be good to go.the CKP (crank sensor) tells the module when to fire, the module fires the coil, and the distributor determines basically when it fires in terms of milliseconds (basic timing), same as with points. The timing via distributor is necessary since the fuel is not controlled via CMP (cam sensor). otherwise the distributor would be fixed and the computer would control fuel volume/timing and ignition timing at the same time, and since there is no reference for the fuel or valve timing, the module has no way to determine the most effective timing therefore simply fires when the crank passes the sensor.