Done head gasket mate put manifolds on now fuel pump diont work no power to pump power at relay starts with blast of fuel no power from compurter to pump

indicates blown head gasket
do a compression test to confirm then replace head gaskets and have the head/s shaved as they will be warped

The website has software that looks for obscene words.
I would think a compression test would show if the cylinder is having mechanical problems. And yes the intake or head gasket could be leaking again, especially if the intake or head were warped or cracked.
Have you checked fuel pressure ?
Does the spark plug for cylinder 5 show signs of coolant leaking into the cylinder ?

Head gasket. If you have a V-6, have someone do a cylinder bleeddown test. It will save you from having to pull both heads. You only need to work on the bad one.

This will provide a basic how to or DIY on how to replace your injectors, but for your specific application, we recommend you ask in our car forum.

Before You begin, It is essential to de-pressurize your fuel system. Disconnect the power to your fuel pump, by either disconnecting it's power supply, or pulling the fuel pump fuse or relay. Once the fuel pump has no power or relay installed, crank the engine for a few seconds. The engine might start, but should die a few seconds later. If it continues to idle, then you didn't disconnect your fuel pump or the correct relay.

Once the fuel system is de-pressurized, you can begin to remove various parts from the engine bay to help clear up room. On a typical system, there is a fuel feed, and fuel return. For these types of systems, you would need to disconnect both of the lines, and then disconnect the fuel pressure regulator. The fuel injectors are held in with clips that hold the harness to the injector. Remove these clips, and pop off the wiring harnesses. The fuel rail is held in with a few bolts. Remove these bolts, and then the fuel rail should be loose. Pull the fuel rail out of the intake manifold or cylinder head, and you can now easily remove the fuel injectors.

Make sure to cover the holes that are now in the intake manifold or head. Don't let any debris fall into this hole!

Pull the old fuel injectors out of the fuel rail, and then put the new injectors into the fuel rail. Make sure you have new "o" rings and you are all set. Simply put everything back together, and then don't forget to plug your fuel pump back in. The car may be hard to start the first few cranks as the fuel pressure builds, and then you are all done!


Diagrams for the above can easily be found in a Haynes or Chiltons Manual - Failing that look on the web, Best of luck.

The upper intake plenum is leaking coolant into the cylinder heads. The head gaskets on this motor are awesome. So, chances are it's the upper intake plenum. You can check this, by removing the vacuum hose that runs between the upper plenum and the brake booster. Stick your finger in and try to touch the top of the lower intake manifold. If your finger is wet it the upper plenum. You might as well replace the lower intake gasket while you're performing this work because they are prone to failure also. Use a shop vac to pull any coolant out of the cylinder heads. Get brand new spark plugs because the old ones are probably fouled. Once you get the plenum and gaskets replaced, remove your fuel pump relay and leave the spark plugs out and turn the engine over repeatedly for about 10 seconds to push any excess coolant out of the cylinder heads. Then, put the spark plugs in and turn the engine over for 10 seconds again. This will burn excess fuel as coolant out. Then, replace the fuel pump relay to allow fuel to be pumped into the heads. Car will smoke for a few when it fires up, but will clear out quickly. CHANGE THE OIL! Twice within a week if possible.

Assuming that the leak was coming from the gasket that you just replaced, it could be due to several factors which include the following:

1) uneven mating condition, between intake and head due to non removal of the old gasket
2) gasket could have shifted out of position while the intake was being put in place
3) over torquing or un-even mating condition could have caused a crack in the composite intake manifold
4) under torqued intake to head attachments.

There are also quick disconnects for the heater hoses which may not be properly retained. These quick disconnects have been known to crack, creating a leak,

I would first determine where the liquid is coming from and then concentrate on that interface to solve the issue.

It is located on the right raer on thr cylinder head.disconnect fuel linesto the fuel pump.romove bolts that attach pump to cylinder head.romove the fuel pump.Instalation is reverse of removal.Mke sure you clean mating surfaces of old gasket material install new gasket with rtv blackk
gasket to pump side & gasket to cylinder head mating surface

coil or electronic ignition module going off when turning warmer.i guess run some test

On the fuel rail there is a small cap that you will remove, inside is a schradervalve(like on a tire stem)depress it with a small screwdriver to relieve pressure FUEL WILL SPRAY,NO SMOKING,USE CAUTION, be in a well ventialated area. NO OPEN FLAMES.

Modern head gaskets do not require additional sealer or retorqueing. Follow gasket maker recomendations. and torque as recomended by Jeep.

these cars have issues with coolent getting into the intake... headgaskets are not one of the issues . check plugs for coolent. upper plastic intake has coolent flow in to chambers if u will, and over time they get micro cracks and brittle ...lower intake manifold gaskets are plastic also. ..cyl. heads are cast iron not alluminum . lower intake manifold is alluminum and upper intake is plastic .. on my lesabre a plastic 90 degree elbow connected to the lower intake manifold to the heater hose housing. the belt tensioner is connected to this housing im refering to. not saying for sure, but if it is this is usually why...