Stablelizer bar bussings, where are they an what do they look like?

The rear module you name is probably the "rear lights bussing bar" mounted on the front of the cross member. There's a black wire that provides the ground for that bar and it usually breaks close to the spare tire lift.
I hope this helps. Take care.

Underhood Electrical Center or Junction Block Replacement

Removal Procedure

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical.


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2. Disconnect the positive battery cables from the underhood fuse block terminals.
3. Remove the tape from the wiring harness at the base of the underhood fuse block base.


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4. Release the underhood fuse block(s) clip retainers using a small flat-bladed tool.


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5. Remove the fuse block(s) and wiring harness lifting up from the base and reposition from the base.


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6. Remove the nuts from the underhood fuse block base.
7. Remove the underhood fuse block base from the shock tower.


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8. Remove the underhood fuse block lower front terminal positive assurance retainers using a small flat-bladed tool.


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9. Remove the plastic shields from the battery cable and buss bar terminals, using a small flat-bladed tool to release the clip retainer.


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10. Remove the bolts from the buss bar jumper bar.


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11. Remove the buss bar jumper bar from the fuse block(s).


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12. Remove the fuses from the fuse block(s) to access the buss bar terminal release tabs.


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13. Remove the buss bar(s) from the fuse block(s) using a terminal releasing tool, and pulling down and out on the buss bar.


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14. Remove the buss bar(s) from the fuse block(s).


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15. Release the clip retainers from the underhood fuse block(s) battery cable and buss bar terminals using a small flat-bladed tool.


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16. Remove the underhood fuse block(s) battery cable and buss bar terminals from the fuse block by pulling down.
17. Remove the fuse block and lamp wiring harness from the vehicle, if required.

I copied the info from my database, sorry, it is read only, The way I copied it, read only, no pictures.

put the spare wheel on and see it that makes a difference. you will see a broken strut problem
check the wheel bearings and adjustment.

tyr googling for the diagram or consult a shop manual

Under the hood.

Check the fuse in the box under the hood on drivers side labled parking lights. mine had this problem and I found not only the fuse bad but also the buss bar bringing power to that fuse had corroded away also.

Possibly the buss bar in the fuse box, but I'd bet on a fusible link or a master fuse.

* Do NOT do this on a warm/hot engine. Aluminum threads strip easily*

Pop off the top engine cover

Now, right in front of you you'll see the big fat injectors with the fuel lines attaching them. Just under this all are what look kinda like tall skinny spark plugs with a plastic buss attached to them. These are the glow plugs.

Pull off the buss bar from the plugs one by one, it might take some removing of the flexible fuel lines. and just pull the buss bar out of your was a bit.

Get a deep 10mm socket and an extender and remove the plugs.

When installing the new plugs start them as far as you can by hand w/ socket and extender- don't crank em in there.

Make sure they are more than snug but DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN

If you wanna go all the way torque plugs to 11 ft-lbs

....don't forget to re-connect any fuel return lines you may have removed

Check ground buss located under the carpet next to the driver's door.
Remove buss bar and clean corrosion. I had water under the carpet.
It seems to have correct my problem. Good luck.

The fuse is bolted in to the power buss-bar in the fuse box. You have to remove the fuse box center section from the outer section (pull it up) to access the 8 or 10 millimeter bolts that holds it to the buss-bar. No other way to do it.