Hello I am having what sounds like a common thing but I can't be sure. The instrument panel has been intermentant for about for about 8 months now. Sometimes works for a day or three weeks. I am now unable to keep my 1997 dodge grand caravan Se running for more than 2 miles than the lights,clock get dim and then all power lost. I can charge battery and run van again for 2 miles. The gauges have been consistently not working off and on. Is it joints to cluster,fuse,battery(8 months new)alternator,or panel?

It sounds like you did not have your VOM on volts but on amps, the wire should not get warm when measuring volts. Have you tried jumping it?

Yes it is a common issue and you need to pull the instrument panel and send it out for repair and updates.

Hi Melissa, I'm glad to help, here is the instruction below I said I'd send. Have an awesome day.


23 - Body/Interior/CONSOLE, Floor, Front/Removal REMOVAL [img id=LOPTableImg src="https://w05.dealerconnect.chrysler.com/service/mds2002/common/images/collapse.gif"> Click to display a list of Labor Operations associated with this procedure 1. Remove shift bezel. (Refer to 23 - Body/Interior/BEZEL, Shifter - Removal) .
2. Remove transmission range indicator surround bezel Figure 1.
3. Remove two screws attaching front floor console to the lower instrument panel Figure 2. 4. Open cup holder and remove two attaching screws to bottom of cup holder. 5. Open bin and remove two attaching screws to bottom of bin. 6. Remove front floor console sidewall attaching screws, three per side. 7. Raise front floor console and disconnect wiring harness. 8. Remove front floor console from vehicle.
Figure 1 - TRANSMISSION RANGE INDICATOR SURROUND BEZEL 1 - INSTRUMENT PANEL 2 - AUTOSTICK SHIFTER ASSEMBLY 3 - TRACTION CONTROL SWITCH 4 - TRANSMISSION RANGE INDICTOR SURROUND BEZEL 5 - KNOB SET SCREW 6 - SHIFTER KNOB 7 - FLOOR SHIFT BEZEL 8 - WIRE CONNECTOR 9 - INSTRUMENT PANEL WIRING HARNESS 10 - INSTRUMENT PANEL WIRING CLIP
Figure 2 - FRONT FLOOR CONSOLE 1 - FORWARD CONSOLE CLOSEOUT PANEL 2 - CLOSEOUT PANEL PUSH PIN RETAINER 3 - INSTRUMENT PANEL WIRING 4 - FLOOR CONSOLE BASE 5 - FRONT FLOOR CONSOLE ATTACHING SCREWS TO LOWER INSTRUMENT PANE AND BASE 6 - FRONT FLOOR CONSOLE WIRING CONNECTOR 7 - FRONT FLOOR CONSOLE 8 - ATTACHING L-BRACKETS

p0456 is a small (.002") leak in the evaporative system most common problems are gas caps and purge valves. however there are many other places that can leak (cracked hoses,leak detection pump fuel tank or lines,vent valve, just to name a few)

Common problem. You most likely have a blown fuse on your cigarette lighter circuit. These get shorted out all the time due to faulty phone chargers, GPS units, coins in ash tray getting stuck in the socket, etc...

This same circuit is what powers pin 16 of your data link connector(an OBD scanner will not work without it).

The Fuse you need to check is the CIG/DLC fuse, which is Fuse #28 (20 Amp) in your instrument panel fuse block. The instrument panel fuse block is located on the driver's side of the instrument panel.

Be sure to check your cigarette lighter for some of the things mentioned above, and take corrective action, or you will only blow another fuse.

Sounds like you have a power drain (small-amperage short) in the wiring going to your instrument cluster. The short has disabled some of your instrument cluster lights, but, since is has high resistance, it has not blown a fuse (since it draws to few amps). Once the current drain has wasted enough amperage, there's not enough left in the battery to start the car.
Phase 1: Interim solution: (1) charge the battery with your battery charger (if you don't have a battery charger, attach the battery with jumper cables to the battery in a running car - its alternator will charge your battery).
(2) pull the fuse(s) to the instrument cluster, thus killing power to the short.
(3) start and use you car without instrument cluster lights until you can move
to phase 2 of your repair. If you're not sure that you've killed power to the short, disconect the battery each time you stop the engine.
Phase 2:
(1) isolate the problem (the short) to one specific fuse, meaning one specific branch circuit in the car.
(2) trace the wiring from the fuse block to the instrument cluster, looking for
burn marks, bare wires (all wires should be insulated), or anything touching
a frame ground. Also look for moisture iintrusion - water can cause these types of high resistance "shorts" - with the symptom that the problem disappears after the water dries up.
(3) correct wiring problem found in step 2, plug in fuse. done
(4) if replacing instrument cluster, use instructions below.

1995-99 Models

See Figure 4
Fig. 4: Common instrument cluster found in 1995-97 "S" series Pick-ups.
(see illustration at end of message)

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the sound insulators/trim panels.
3. If necessary for access, unfasten the steering column nuts and if necessary, the bolts at the lower flange, then lower the column for access.
4. Unfasten the instrument cluster bezel screws located at the lower edge of the bezel. If no screws are present, then remove the bezel by pulling it straight out.
5. Unfasten the four screws retaining the instrument cluster to the instrument panel, unplug any necessary cluster electrical connections, then remove the cluster.

To install.
6. Install the cluster to the instrument panel making sure the cluster is firmly seated onto the connector, attach any necessary electrical connections and tighten the cluster fasteners to 17 inch. lbs. (1.9 Nm).
7. Install the instrument cluster panel bezel by snapping it into position, then if equipped, install the screws along the bottom of the bezel.
8. If lowered, re-position the steering column and tighten retaining nuts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm) on 1995 models. On 1996-99 models tighten the nuts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm). If removed, tighten lower flange bolts to 120 inch lbs. (13 Nm).
9. Install the sound insulators/trim panels.
10. Connect the negative battery cable.

First off, whenever you disconnect battery on Chrysler products (or about any other these days) when reconnecting ALWAYS!!! Connect ground cable (-) LAST. You can try re-connecting battery as you mentioned and "maybe" it will cure your lights. But if it doesn't have local parts store scan your fault codes & reset your lights.

Instrument panel upper trim panel


Instrument panel

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
   
2. Disable the Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) system.
   
3. Carefully pry upward, using a small, flat-bladed tool, to remove the defroster grille.
   
4. Remove the Sunload and Headlamp Auto Control sensors from the defroster grille.
   
5. Working through the defroster grille opening, remove 3 upper trim panel retaining screws.
   
6. Remove the heater/air conditioning vents from the front of the instrument panel by releasing the tab on each side from inside the vent and pulling out.
   
7. Working through the vent openings, remove 4 upper trim panel retaining screws and remove the upper trim panel.
   
8. Remove the instrument cluster.
   
9. Remove the right and left A/C vent trim panels.
   
10. Open the trap door in the rear of the glove compartment and remove the passenger inflatable restraint wiring connector from the retaining clip on the rear of the glove compartment assembly.
    
11. Remove the 4 glove compartment-to-instrument panel retaining screws.
    
12. Pull the glove compartment assembly outward enough to access the wiring connectors for the glove compartment switches. Label and detach the wiring connectors.
    
13. Remove the glove compartment assembly from the instrument panel.
    
14. Remove the retaining screws and courtesy lamps from the right and left sound insulators and remove the sound insulators.
    
15. Remove the steering column opening filler trim by grasping at the front and rear edges and pulling downward.
    
16. Remove the 4 retaining bolts and the steering column opening bracket.
    
17. If equipped with full console, remove the console.
    
18. If equipped with mini console, remove the radio.
    
19. Remove the headlamp switch module.
    
20. Remove the 2 bolts and the hood latch release.
    
21. Move the driver's seat to its full rearward position.
    
22. Remove the steering column.
    
23. Remove the 8 instrument panel retaining screws, detach the wiring connector at each side of the instrument panel, and remove the shims at the lower mounting screws.
    
24. Remove the instrument panel with the aid of an assistant.
    

To install:

1. With the aid of an assistant, position the instrument panel in the vehicle.
   
2. Attach the wiring connector at each side of the instrument panel, install the shims and the 8 instrument panel retaining screws.
   
3. Install the steering column.
   
4. Install the hood latch release with the 2 bolts.
   
5. Install the headlamp switch module.
   
6. If equipped with mini console, install the radio.
   
7. If equipped, install the console.
   
8. Install the steering column opening bracket and the steering column opening filler trim.
   
9. Install the right and left sound insulators.
   
10. Position the glove compartment assembly and attach the wiring connectors to the switches.
    
11. Push the glove compartment into place and install the retaining screws.
    
12. Place the passenger inflatable restraint wiring connector on the retaining clip on the rear of the glove compartment assembly and close the trap door.
    
13. Install the right and left A/C vent trim panels.
    
14. Install the instrument cluster.
    
15. Position the upper trim panel on top of the instrument panel, making sure the sensors are through the trim panel.
    
16. Install the upper trim panel retaining screws through the heater/air conditioning vent openings.
    
17. Gently push the heater/air conditioning vents into place.
    
18. Install the upper trim panel retaining screws through the defroster grille opening.
    
19. Install the Sunload and Headlamp Auto Control sensors to the defroster grille.
    
20. Gently push the defroster grille into place.
    
21. Enable the SIR system.
    
22. Connect the negative battery cable.
    

Hello,
It sounds like you need to have a shop look at this with a scanner with a data reading capability. The reason for this is that you can drive and see actual miles per hour and compair it with the reading on the dash. If the dash and scaner read the same thing you may either have a squed speed sensor or a bad PCM. If they don't agree you will need an IPC the reason for this Logic is because the IPC gets its information from the PCM. The IPC is the Instrument Panel Cluster and the PCM is the Powertrain Control Module.

I hope this helps,
Roy

check the ball joints for looseness this will cause an excessive shake at higher speeds