I have a 1994 mitsubishi mighty max 2.4 . I rebuilt the engine replaced the ignition coil cap rotor plugs etc and it wont start when its cold. If I crank on it it starts after some considerable cranking what is wrong I have great fuel pressure new fuel pressure new injectors new fuel pump Im about to just give up

no mileage told , 3.0L V6engine, gas.
cranks and starts.
so does start and idle as long as you want?
or idles fine and only throttle pushed stalls it.
stalls have 3 reasons in physics, on Otto cycle gas engine
1: bad engine
2: bad spark (never did a tune up ever, plugs wires or boots?
3: bad fuel, lean fuel or flooding (means gross rich fueling)
3a fuel filter packed omg not 29 years old .?
4: air no air to burn fuel the air filter is packed up.



when did this old car last run right, list week, month ,year ,decade./?,
found this car in a barn, dead? there is always story on any car 29 years old and one does not see them on the road now so..... tell it"?

if fuel is/was old that is bad fuel and clogs up many parts in the fuel system.
is this USA car? spec?
why not start with x6 spark plugs/.? fresh new and gapped right.
then cap/rotor and those useless 29 year old HV spark wires x6
kick those to the curb,and get MAG wires from BOSCH or NGK
that will cure spark if the 1 spark coil is good and the Distributor parts deeper are good the ICM.

Unless it has a points and condenser distributor you are not going to hot wire it. Electronic ignition relies on numerous signals to the ECU to fire the ignition and the fuel injectors. Unless you live outside of the USA or in a country without many smog restrictions then you have electronic ignition and fuel injection. If you have points and condenser ignition the run a wire from the battery positive to the ignition coil positive.

Does it have electronic ignition or a normal distributor?

If you have no spark to the plugs when it won't start, it could be a coil or other ignition problem. No fuel could be a fuel pump relay.

how bout the rotor and button in the distributor,

You've already eliminated the spark plug & wireset, distributor cap & rotor.
Sounds like your car needs a tune-up, specifically, the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve, and/of the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve.

Components checked/replaced during a tune-up are:
air filter
motor oil
motor oil filter
breather filter
fuel filter(s)
fuel strainer
PCV valve
EGR valve
spark plugs
spark plug wires
ECM or distributor cap & rotor
cabin air filter
transmission oil filter
transmission oil
engine coolant
check all vacuum hoses and lines

Troubleshooting the no-start condition - from the 1990 Mitsu Mighty Max Repair Manual:

Priority Action Part Type -- Cause
1 Inspect Battery -- Battery Discharged or Faulty.
2 Inspect Battery Cable -- Corroded, Broken, Shorted or Poorly Connected Battery Cable.
3 Inspect Distributor Cap -- Distributor Cap Cracked or Burned.
3 Inspect Fuel Filter -- Clogged or Dirty Fuel Filter.
5 Inspect Ignition Coil -- Faulty Ignition Coil.
6 Inspect Wireset -- Worn, Damaged or Faulty Spark Plug Wire(s).
7 Inspect Spark Plug -- Incorrectly Gapped or Fouled Spark Plug(s).
8 Inspect Starter -- Starter Motor Faulty.
9 Inspect Fuel Pump -- Low Fuel Pressure.
10 Inspect Solenoid Switch -- Faulty Starter Solenoid Switch.
11 Inspect Fuel Pump Relay -- Faulty Fuel Pump Relay.
12 Inspect Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator -- Faulty Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator.
13 Inspect Ignition Switch -- Improperly Connected or Faulty Ignition Switch.
14 Inspect Starter Drive -- Faulty Starter Drive.
15 Inspect Fuel Injector -- Dirty or Worn Fuel Injectors.
16 Inspect Fuel Pump Strainer -- Clogged or Dirty Fuel Pump Strainerat.
17 Inspect Engine Control Computer -- Incorrect Operating Information Being Delivered and Sent From The EEC.
18 Inspect Fuel Tank -- Fuel Tank Empty.
19 Inspect Carburetor -- Carburetor Flooded or Faulty Choke.
20 Inspect Distributor -- Worn, Loose, or Incorrectly Installed Distributor.

Check fusible links under hood, drivers side.
1 at battery, the other set closer to firewall.

Next time when cold and it will not start remove a spark plug or two and see if the engines flooded. If so there are two things that come to mind; 1, worn injectors, leaking as engine sits with time causing difficult starts 2: bad oxygen sensor, if failed engines tend to run rich and the ECU may have your injectors pump heavy amounts of fuel to keep from running lean; often times you'll see poor fuel MPG if O2 sensor failed.

I hope this may have assisted you,
Tom

Sounds like a bad ignition coil. Have it tested.

Good day
If you had replace all of that, I would check the fuse for you ignition system. Make sure that you take the fuse completely out to look at it. Please let me know how you make out. If no luck we can look into this deeper.

Cheers.