The BMW convertible top is one of the most complicated systems on the car. A lot of people have problems with their convertible tops. Some problems are easy to fix, while others are much more complicated. The E36 convertible top contains a plethora of switches and sensors that tell the convertible top controller when and how to lower the top. If any of these sensors stop working, it can render your entire top inoperable.
One of these sensors checks the position and operation of the window. If your window is stuck in the up position, you won't be able to lower your top (see Project 70). Another annoying problem that often occurs is with the trunk. The lock on the trunk is connected to the top system, and when it fails, you'll find that you can't lower the top when the trunk is open, or open the trunk if the top is not fully closed. If you have any problems with your trunk wiring (see Project 82), they can stop the top from lowering. In a similar manner, sometimes the headliner can get caught when you close the roof and keep the convertible top cover from closing all the way. This will prevent one of the convertible top microswitches from closing, which in turn will prevent you from opening the trunk. If you can't get into your trunk when your roof is down, try pushing down on the convertible top cover, and it should trigger the switch.BMW makes at least seven different repair kits that can be used to fix parts of the roof that may have worn out or become broken.
This photo shows the convertible motor linkage, which is located under the large, hinged convertible top cover. You can access this area by pressing the top-down switch and letting the cover rise up all the way. The blue arrow points to the cam that drives the bottom part of the convertible top. This is the part that lifts up so the convertible top cover can be raised. If the convertible top cover hits the edge of the top when the roof is being lowered, you can adjust the linkage to push the bottom part of the cover back further (green arrow). While you're in this area, check to make sure your convertible top motor screws are tight (they were loose on my car when I checked them; yellow arrows).
The left side of this photo shows the right-side latching mechanism for the convertible top cover. The yellow arrow shows one of the springs that often wear out after many years of use-unfortunately, it's not a part you can order separately, so head to a good hardware store for a replacement. The green arrow points to one of the infamous microswitches, which should be checked first if you have unexplained problems raising or lowering your top, or opening your trunk. On the right are two areas commonly repaired using the kits in Photo 1. The Column C inserts are shown with the red arrow, and one of the bow tension springs is shown with the blue arrow.
With the convertible top cover raised, you can also see the bow mechanism located toward the front of the car. The yellow arrow shows one of the finicky microswitches that should be tested first when having unexplained problems. If the roof is not lowering or raising the proper amount, you can adjust this by turning the adjustment turnbuckle shown by my convertiable top don,t come - dcramer531_81.jpgimg src="/uploads/images/dcramer531_81.jpg" alt="dcramer531_81.jpg" class="h_mi" />
The fuse in the bottom of the trunk is for the fully automatic locking C-top. The fully auto top has the automatic locks that lock to the top of the windshield. I doubt this is the issue. Most of the issues with the C-tops are with the microswitches. Whether they are out of adjustment or faulty. Sometimes the cables get stretched out over time for the C-top compartment lid locks. This sounds as if you have an issue with the compartment lid motor or an input sensor to the control module that is not allowing lid operation. Check fuse #49 near the battery. The relay in the Convertible top module may be at fault if this fuse is blown.
As far as fuse locations
Fuse box is at the left (driver's side) rear of the engine compartment under clear plastic cover.
Top uses three fuses # 4, 21 and 25.
Keep in mind that the tops on these models are notorious "jammers", so if the fuses are okay, this could be a mechanical linkage issue, not electrical. The lifting rods were not engineered properly. I think there is a stronger part now available.
When all else fails Check the microswitches (there are up to 6 on fully automatic top) - look here for reference and troubleshooting procedures: http://www.bmwmotorsports.org/BMW_docs/c...
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FUSES AND RELAY BUILT WITH THE MOTOR CIRCUIT SEE IF POWER GOING TO CONVERTIBLE MOTOR WHERE SWITCH IS.USE A TEST LIGHT TO SEE IF POWER GOING TO CONVERTIBLE MOTOR WHEN YOU WORK SWITCH.IF POWER GOING TO SWITCH AND MOTOR.MOTOR COULD BE BAD.NO POWER GOING TO MOTOR WHEN WORK THE SWITCH.YOU HAVE BROKEN WIRE AT SWITCH OR SWITCH COULD BE BAD.
CHECK THE GROUND CIRCUIT.ON MOST MODELS THERE IS A THIRD WIRE FROM MOTOR THAT IS ATTACHED TO GROUND SOME WHERE NEAR THE MOTOR.CHECK GROUND CONNECTION FOR LOOSE OR CORROSSION.
IF NO POWER GOING TO MOTOR.CHECK FOR POWER AT THE THREE SWITCH TERMINALS BY BACKPROBING WITH THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR STILL ATTACHED.THERE SHOULD BE POWER AT ONE OF THE SWITCH TERMINALS WITH THE SWITCH IN THE NEUTRAL POSITION,AND POWER AT TWO OF THE TERMINALS WITH THE SWITCH IN EITHER THE TOP UP OR TOP DOWN POSITION. IF THERE IS NO POWER AT THE SWITCH, THE PROBLEM LIES IN THE WIRING BETWEEN THE BATTERY AND THE SWITCH.IF THERE IS POWER AT ONLY ONE TERMINAL IN THE TOP UP OR TOP DOWN POSITION,THE SWITCH IS BAD.IF THE SWITCH TESTS ARE OK,PROBLEM IS IN THE RELAY OR THE WIRING.
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Red light blinking convertiable top will not come down I have try checking the fuse under hood their good. I disengage the motor and gave the motor 12v ,the motor works could it be the fuse or relay inside the motor don,t work ( 1999 m3 bmw )
I will try and work with this solution.thank you
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