Rear brakes way too hot. replaced the pads and very difficult to turn in, in fact had to releive pressure at the hose to get it to go in at all. Is it possible that the master is at fault? I don't want to waist more time and money rebuilding or replacing the calapers if they are not the problem... i did find the parking brake cables were shot so replaced them.. better but still way too hot...any info??

Replace the rear brake hose/s. They deteriorate on the inside and clog up. Not letting the calipers or cylinders to release. I recommend replacing the front and rear.

Your vehicle should have rear drum brakes...They have to be adjusted manually for correct adjustment...People say they self adjust but it is not good enough....by adjusting the rear it will decrease the pressure on the front and deliver equal braking...This will help eliminate caliper pressure overload....I'm not saying that is your caliper problem but it is insult to injury and will save the life of front brakes.....Now your caliper problem..FYI..A rule of thumb is anytime you change a caliper you should always replace both calipers to have identical braking pressure".The same with brake hoses and rear wheel cylinders.....The caliper that froze in the first place got hot and boiled the brake fluid and quite possibly partially collapsed the caliper brake line/hose inside as Clint and Frank stated....I am going to guess that the first caliper froze under normal conditions however got hot enough to internally damage the caliper line/hose...Then you may think of the pressure regulator being bad in which case could be a problem......So this is what you do".Since we know the left front caliper line/hose has been exposed to heat it needs to be replaced anyway...also the fluid was boiled and it needs to be changed / bled...The new caliper that froze should be ok unless it was bad off the shelf which is rare but possible."..Change the line/hose,bleed the brake system and let the mechanic test drive before you pay and leave..The mechanic will know before driving if the new caliper that froze is bad or not by rotating the wheel...This is the cheapest way...And you will know if the pressure regulator is bad or not just by bleeding system........I hope this helps....."Brooks/Metalpoet....."....

Normally I would say check the brake hose, but that would only be for one wheel.
If the rear brakes are not releasing normally, either something is keeping pressure applied, or the calipers are not sliding back. If both inner and outer pads are wearing down equally on both wheels, I would look for a pressure problem. If only the outboard pads are wearing, the calipers are sticking in place.

Sounds like a sticking brake caliber.

it is really common for the rear caliper slides to become stiff or frozen. The caliper should slide back and forth with little effort. If it doesn't than make sure the slides are free and lubricated.

If you had a difficult time installing the new pads into the bracket than that could also be the problem. The pads should fit into the bracket with little effort and feel loose once installed. If they don't than remove the shims and clean the rust from under them. Then reinstall the shims and see if the pads slide a little easier in the brackets.

Lastly make sure you didn't pinch or twist the rubber brake hoses.

Another thought is to remove the caliper from the bracket and try to spin the rotor/hub by hand. Maybe the e-brake shoes are causing the problem?

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Possibilities.
1. The Caliper is sticking open, causing the friction which equals the pulling; and the brake pads and rotors to be eaten frequently.
This means:
a. The Caliper is faulty.
b. The Brake Line Hose (if so equipped) going from Brake Line to the Caliper is faulty.
A. To Check which one is faulty:
B. Raise and Support properly the rear of the vehicle.
C. Remove the tires from both sides.
D. Inspect the brake springs and brake pad retainers (if so equipped) Missing or improperly placed springs and/or brake pad retainers (if so equipped) could possibly cause this also.
E. Using a 6-inch (or larger) "C"-clamp, place the top end of the "C"-clamp onto the back of the caliper. Do not place it on the Brake Line/Hose or the Brack Line connection to the Caliper. Place the screw end of the "C"-clamp onto the center portion of the outside Brake Pad, but not touching the Caliper Housing. Begin screwing-in the clamp, this will move the Brake Pad in, and push the Caliper Piston back into the Caliper Bore. If this is difficult to do, then that is your first sign that the Caliper is "sticking open".
If you are not sure how easy or hard this should be: Move to the Right Side of the vehicle and Clamp-in the right rear Caliper to get an idea of how easy/difficult it should feel. Compare the feel.
If the Left Rear Caliper is difficult to reset:
(1) Place a tight fitting Hose over the nipple of Bleeder Screw, located on the back of the Caliper. Do not cover the nut sides.
(2) Loosen the Bleeder Screw until fluid starts coming out.
(3) Reattempt to Clamp-in the brake.
(4) If it is now alot easier to Clamp-in, then it is the Brake Line Hose going from the Brake Line to the Caliper that is most likely faulty.

The Brake Hoses wear out on the inside, causing "gate-like" frayings. The fluid can flow out to the Caliper, but once the Brake Pedal is released these "gates" close, not allowing the fluid to return-out of the caliper. The Caliper maintains pressure on the Rotor causing the pulling of the vehicle and the wear-and-tear of the Rotor and Pads.
Let me know if this helped, or if you have any additional information, problems, or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!

if both wheels have this problem check the flex brake hose that comes from the frame to the rear axle,if only one wheel has the problem it could be the caliper or that wheels flex hose,also check the slides on the caliper or the caliper bracket the brake pads have to be able to move after pressure is released,in most cases the slides freeze up causing one brake pad to constantly apply pressure.and there for heating up the rotor one other thing is your emergency brake cable hanging up.

Replace brake hoses,they have an inner core that has ruptured and the outside rubber core is keeping pressure on the caliper with you foot off the brake. This will fix it! A common problem for this vehicle.

It sounds like the rear calipers are bad. Raise the rear wheels and see if you can turn the tires. If you can't, open the bleeder. If you still can't replace the caliper. If you can turn the wheel after you open the bleeder, replace the brake hose to that wheel.

Take the top off your master brake cylinder to relieve pressure. You may have over-pressured things if you didn't take the cylinder cap off when you compressed the rotors. You said pads, so I assume they are rear disc brakes.