What could case the front ties to be eaten up?

wow,try parts store see if they have a direct fit line or partsgeek.com

Could be battery, alternator or something more serious.
Look on driver's side fender, under the hood,
PCM or SMEC.
There is a harness that sometimes gets eaten by battery acid.
Sometimes it is eaten out from inside as copper melts away as the wire is being chafed.
If you happen to find a green and black wire like this, that is the oxygen sensor signal circuit.
On 3.0 there is a problem with the abyss almost directly below the throttle body where the harness goes across the engine body.
The factory only installed one wire tie around the air intake tube to put it above the exhaust manifold tube. Now if that harness fell down, then it came in contact with the crossover pipe which can lead to grounding of multiple circuits.
Good luck.

Possibilities are:

1. Bad wheel bearing
2. Bad tie rod
3. Bad ball joint
4. Bad strut
5. Loose lug nuts

Most cases it's a wheel bearing but since you're getting a loud noise too, it could very well be a bad ball joint or tie rod end.

Sounds like the noise is a bad bearing to me. If the ball joints or tie rod ends were bad, you would have irregular steering or in an extreme case, the front end would fall apart and you would lose steering abilities.

REMOVE FRONT WHEEL/.REMOVE THE REINFORCEMENT PLATE / REMOVE FRONT SPLASH GUARD / REMOVE ABS PULSE GENERATOR / REMOVE BRAKE CALIPER FROM DISC AND TIE OUT OF THE WAY WITH THE HOSE STILL CONNECTED / REMOVE STEERING GEAR TIE ROD FROM SWIVEL BEARING / REMOVE THE TENSION STRUT WITH GUIDE JOINT FROM SWIVEL BEARING / REMOVE THE CONTROL ARM FROM SWIVEL BEARING / REMOVE THE COLLAR NUT ON HALFSHAFT PRESS HALFSHAFT OUT OF DRIVE FLANGE / REMOVE THE HALFSHAFT.BESURE TO REPLACE THE SNAP RING ON THE HALFSHAFT.WHEN INSTALLING HALFSHAFT BESURE TO PUSH IN OUTPUT SHAFT OVER THE RESISTANCE OF THE THE RETAINING RING UNTIL IT SNAPS IN PLACE.WHEN JOB FINISHED CHECK THE FRONT AXLE DIFFERENTIAL FLUID LEVEL.

it is possible that your brake pistons have siezed in the bores due to rust from not changing your brake fluid at regular intervals
You will have to pull them out and free them up unless the rust has eaten into the cylinder, if that is the case you can have the caliper reconditioned or buy good 2nd hand ones from the wreckers, I personally would buy new ones

Loosen the wheel hub nut.
Remove the front road wheel and tire.
Remove the tie rod end retaining nut.
Using the special tool 204-192 Ball joint Splitter
detach the tie rod end.
Remove the subframe reinforcement plate retaining bolts.
Loosen the subframe rear mount bolt.
Loosen the subframe front mount bolt.
Remove and discard the wheel hub nut.
using spcial tools 204-269Forcing Screw,205-491-01 adapter nuts,205-491 wheel hub puller
Detach the wheel knuckle.
Remove the lower arm ball joint retaining bolt.
Reposition the lower arm.
Detach the wheel knuckle.
using special tools 307-443 RH Halfshaft splitter ,307-442 RH Halfshaft splitter handle
detach the halfshaft.
Remove the exhaust muffler inlet pipe.
Remove the halfshaft seal.
Remove the transfer case Y bracket retaining bolt.
To prevent damage to the transfer box internal seal,
make sure that the link shaft is not retracted further than
200 mm from the transfer box casing.
remove the halfshaft.
Attach special tools to the halfshaft.
Lever the special tools to displace the halfshaft.
Install the transfer case Y bracket retaining bolt.
Remove the halfshaft.
Use suitable protective covers to protect the barshaft.
Remove the halfshaft snap ring.
Install a new snap ring to the halfshaft.
Install a new halfshaft seal.
Remove the special tool.
Remove the transfer case Y bracket retaining bolt.
Remove the special tool.
Make sure the CV joint splines are located fully.
Do not use excessive force when engaging the CV joint into the link shaft.
Install the halfshaft.
Install the transfer case Y bracket retaining bolt.
Tighten to 25 Nm.
Attach the wheel knuckle.
Reposition the lower arm.
Attach the wheel knuckle.
Install the lower arm ball joint retaining bolt.
Tighten to 83 Nm.
Install the exhaust muffler inlet pipe.
Tighten the subframe front mount retaining bolt.
Tighten to 142 Nm.
Loosely install the subframe rear mount retaining bolt.
Install the subframe reinforcement plate retaining bolts.
Tighten to 35 Nm. Tighten to 142 Nm.
Install the tie rod end.
Tighten to 35 Nm.
Loosely install a new wheel hub nut.
Install the front road wheel and tire.
Tighten the wheel hub nut.
Tighten to 330 Nm.
Check the subframe alignment.

This is clearly not a job that's lubricated with some WD-40. The high temperature and pressure generated in the hub is simply too great for a lubricant of that nature.
Heavy duty wheel-bearing grease is what you need. And they are available at most autoparts stores.

In some typical cases such as when the front-hub plus the black-cover and the 10-small bolts are stuck or eaten away by rust then some light lubricant such as WD-40 could be used to loosen up.

Sounds like possibly Tie rod ends. Cheep parts. Reasonable labor charge. The Tie rod ends can and will break from the wheel and your Car will literally have a mind of its own. If they do break It will most likely be to a NASTY pot hole on a freeway. If this Is the case get It done ASAP. If your tight for $$ Drive slow and watch for pot holes and bumps.

Good Luck

go to parts store bye battery therminal its probably side post cut the old therminal at the base of therminal with axesaw remove 1 inch of rubber on the cable just screw the therminal you bought tie it up and clean the side post on the battery install on battery not to tight to strip its lead inside and not to strong good luck hope it a fixya for you and me pierre