My '02 745 BMW will not accelerate under normal engine load. Which makes me have to accelerate gently and drive slowly because my car will cut back on rpms and hesitate real bad. While the car is in park it runs normal and i can press the accelerater pedal down and increase rpms and the car don't miss fire or cut back.If i'm setting at a traffic light my car will putt untill I release the brake pedal or switch to park position. The car also displayed on the message board to avoid high engine load as catalyt damage could result. Have any idea what the problem could be?

there's a pretty good chance you have coolant contamination that's clogging up the flow of the radiator fluid. this would cause unusual strain on the system as it will begin to overheat and the engine may compensate to try to cool it using the thermostat to open the flow of the coolant. but on a cool day, it never needs to.
on a hot day, it's trying to push around gunky coolant and it's not cooling properly, so the engine .. basically sucks to drive.

try having your radiator completely flushed and cleaned out first.

those rubber mounts on the driveshaft.....replacement them. sometimes called guibo joints.

This is just the throttle sucking air when the engine is under a load. When you rev the engine in park it wont make the noise as much or at all. Try driving it and slowly apply the gas and see if it happens.

Hi

I am presumming this is a diesel? please confirm.

It sounds like an EGR fault, exhaust gas recycler valve, this will make the car lose a lot of power and cause the engine light. Normally will not rev over 3-4k rpm with the light on.

Regards
Dan

You have a v8 with a "variable valve gear guide sensor" on each bank. The trouble code is telling you that bank#2 sensor is faulty, or its signal is not getting to the engine computer.

Consequently, when bank#1 adjusts the timing (under hard acceleration or higher revs), bank #2 is not getting adjusted.

If the variable valve timing is not being activated (low load, load revs) the engine will run more or less normally.

Get the car to the dealer. You risk MAJOR ENGINE DAMAGE if you keep driving it.

SD

Sounds like under a load. Could be transmission torque converter.

bmw should NOT SHAKE THE STEERING WHEEL AT ADLE. OK SOUNDS LIKE ITS RUFF UNDER LOAD LIFT THE HOOD AND CHECK FOR A HISSING SOUND IF SO IT IS VACUUM LEAK. MOST COMMON. iF TAHAT ISNT IT LETS MAKE SURE ITS IDLEING AT 800 RPM IF HIGHER PLEASE PUT ON FORM HERE AT FIX YA AND WE CAN WORK THIS OUT CHECK IDLE, CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, AND THEY ARE BAD AT NEEDING MOTOR AND TRANS MOUNTS MY BET WOULD BE ON MOUNTS

Should be under the car, drivers side, just in front of rear wheel. Make sure and release the fuel pressure slowly when you take the lines loose.

Even under acceleration you should have cold air from vents.Does the air change from the vents to defroster or elsewhere when accelerating? Make sure you have a full charge of refrigerent..Also make sure the engine isnt running hot...

Have someone handy to press the gas pedal for you after the engine has warmed up well; best if driven.

While you listen at the exhaust pipe, have your helper increase the revs slowly and note whether the exhaust note changes to a hiss, instead of the sound of an engine firing.

You may have a decayed catalytic convertor and when they come apart inside, they can clog mufflers and resonators (the second, smaller muffler).

I've had this happen on more than one car and when it happened on a Fiat Strada years ago, since the routing of the system was fairly straight and made of heavier gauge stainless steel, I fired two shots with a .357 magnum into the tailpipe.
Never had another problem with it.