Distributor timing set

If the shaft in the distributor does not turn, either the shaft or gear is broken, or the cam is not turning in the engine. That could be from a broken timing belt.

Hi Steven, I would think of replacing the the points (contact breaker) and condenser (capacitor) Theses are inside the distributor and revealed by removing the distributor cap. Remove the holding clips or screws (I don't remember which) and then lift off the cap and rotor arm. remove the cables connecting to the condenser and points. Remove both points and condenser and replace both and reconnect the electrical cables. Turn the engine by hand until the contact breaker is fully opened by one of the cam lobes on the center shaft and then adjust the gap to point four five millimeters. Rotate the engine again by hand until the points close and then with the ignition turned on but not cranking check you have spark by opening the points with a plastic tool. Once the spark is confirmed turn the engine to the timing marks (Please confirm ignition timing but I believe it is 6 degrees before Top Dead Center. Turn the engine so that the timing marks align at that setting and then set the points by loosening off the distributor body and rotating it so that the points are just about to open but are still closed. Tighten everything up and refit the rotor arm and cap and start the engine. For a more accurate setting of the distributor timing use a strobe timing light after initial start up. Always attend to the ignition timing before attempting any carburetor adjustment. Regards John

I had the worst time with my 93 gmc safari we replaced the entire fule system everything fuel pump fuel filter so many parts including relays you name it it was insane then we had to replace the distributor twice because they gave us one that was bad they dont always give you good parts you know take them back and try another. sometimes we have even gotten two new parts the same that were bad take them back. But what he found out from a professional site for mechanics that no one would know out here and I will share it with you all as I have much sympathy to anyone who owns a 93 GMC but I love my van so I keep fixing it i have put it through alot . Here it is if you can not get your van to start you have doe all of the normal things and still nothing battery fuel system completely fuses the Distributor can becaome magnetized. Yes I said magnetized. test it and see with something light. the distributor can create a bermuda triangle situation that will have you scratching your head to begin with then pulling out your hair and throwing things later and getting very discouraged. But as much personality as this van has it needs special care but once you understand it you will know when it is the egr valve or the distributor or the relays now faire warning replace all 3 relays also just under the hood its worth it and if you have had any overheating check them or this situation that I talked about replace them check them for melting I dont know whether it was the magnetizing or wires crossed but they over heated for some reason and oozed out like a black tarrish substance so you must clean the contacts really good we used gasoline it was the only thing to get tar off and let them dry. then replaced all 3. Its a great van whn running well dont get discouraged if you love your van just rebuild it gradually the way i have oh and only use brass freeze plugs you will thank me for that later but if you have your engine apart or out for ANY REASON REPLACE ALL t once and get those BASTARDS BEHIND THE FLYWHEEL OF THE ENGINE OR YOU WILL BE HATING LIFE do it now YOU HAVE 8 FREEZEPLUGS FIND THEM AND REPLACE THEM BEFORE YOU GET STRANDED OUT OF TOWN FOR 4 DAYS THE WAY I DID JUST ONE OF THE TIMES AND WARP YOUR HEADS OVER HEATING. i AM A gmc SAFARI SAAVY CHIC THAT KNOWS HER VAN NOW OH YEAH NOW I EITHER HAVE TO REPLACE THE HEADS OR THE RINGS HAVE TO BE DONE, AND THIS ONLY HAPPENED AFTER I HAD JIFFY LUBE PUT IN SYNTHETIC OIL EVERYONE SAYS THAT WOULDN\'T MAKE A DIFFERENCE BUT I DONT BELIEVE THEM THEY DONT OWN ONE OF THESE MONEY MONSTERS, THEY DONT UNDERSTAND WHEN IT GETS SOMETHING IN IT IT DOENT LIKE IT LETS YOU KNOW. i THINK MY VAN IS REBELLING AND UNFORTUNATELY THIS ONE IS GOING TO BE EXPENSIVE AND HURT. WHEN IT STARTS NOW IT BARLEY TURNS OVER THEN IT DOES AND WHEN IT STARTS IN SOUNDS LIKE A ROCK IS BING THROWN AROUND. tHIS SOUNDS BAD BUT i HOPE ITS THE HEADS BECAUSE I REALLY DONT WANT TO HAVE TO FIND ANOTHER ENGINE I LIVE IN MONTEREY CALIF IF ANYONE KNOWS OF ANY ENGINES ALREADY TAKEN OUT. i AM TRYING NOT TO LOSE MY JOB.THE PERSON THAT WAS SUPPOSED TOP ALWAYS BE THERE FOR ME AND HELP ME HAS TURNED HIS BACK ON ME AND I HAVE NO HELP TO GET THIS SITUATED SO i AM LOOKING FOR ANYONES HELP WHERE I CAN FIND THE ENGINE CHEAPER.NIKKI

believe it or not you really don't need to know where #1 on the distributor. It actually is set in one place so everyone is "on the same page" when working on one. All you need to do is turn the engine by hand 'till the timing mark on the crankshaft points to "0" on the timing scale.Wherever the rotor points is either at #1 Or 180 degrees out of phase on the exhaust stroke. (if you end up doing that you'll need to turn the engine one complete turn to get it right. If you have the valve cover removed you can get it right the first time by turning the engine 'till the intake rocker opens the valve. Then keep turning 'till the timing mark is aligned. (always turn the engine in the direction it turns when cranking). Wherever the rotor is pointing is #1. Turn the distributor so the cap wire tower nearest the rotor is aligned with the rotor and use that tower as #1. The remainder of the ignition wires are installed in the order usually stamped on the intake manifold (pretty sure it's 153624) in the direction the rotor turns when cranking. In reality, the engine doesn't know the difference between any different position. What's most important is that the spark should happen slightly ahead of the piston reaching TDC after the intake valve closes. Once you designate a particular position as #1 it will always be that number unless you repeat the process again and use a different tower. But to do that you'd also need to remove the distributor and change it's position in reference to the cam and crankshaft. If you have any problem at all, just ask and I'll try to clarify it for you.

change one spark wire at a time on the distributor.buy new set of spark plugs wires remove them from box.match old wires with new wires to use the correct length to each cylinder.now if you need to change distributor cap.mark location distributor cap.number tag plug wires on the distributor cap so you can remove plug wires on distributor cap so you can replace cap and rotor and put wires back on the distributor cap in correct place.remember change one plug wire at a time so you wont get confuse.

THE FIRING ORDER IS AS FOLLOWS : 1-6-5-4-3-2.
CYLINDER NUMBERS (front-to-rear) :
LEFT (driver side) 1-3-5
RIGHT (passenger side) 2-4-6

To set ignition timing, ensure that engine is at operating temperature, (190 degrees or above), bypass EST (electronic spark timing) by unplugging the single tan wire with a black stripe from the distributor. Ignition timing should be set at 0 degrees or TDC (top dead center). If not, loosen distributor hold down bolt and adjust, then retighten.

remove dog house locate test port and install guage should be 45-60 psi

The distributor in that engine can only be installed in one position. The hold down is built onto the distributor meaning when it is installed and the engine runs the computer is responsible for the timing. The distributor will move a little but won't correct major timing errors.

It does matter. The advance unit is affected by the position of the distributer.In engines with no distributer (visible) is totally run by the PCU.

Are plugs and wires good? Did you check distributor? Firing order correct-timing set right? Maybe some of the new parts are faulty? Are grounds all secure and are fuses good?