Crank no start

Try disconnecting the starter solenoid control lead and see if it still blows the fuse when no engine crank while switch in start position.

Try disconnecting the alternator and see if symptoms change.

You might also try using a 12V test lamp (or better, a headlamp) in place of the fuse. It may not crank but it allows you to low power circuits without blowing fuses. Observe lamp brightness as you go from run to start. Brightness is relative to current flow.

Comment for further assistance.

the car has smart bcm (ALC) and key off 10 mnutes later headlamps turn off all by them selves.
so you did not say key is on.
if key is off and want HL , turn key to accessory pos.
there are a pile of fuse to be bad for ALC,DRL
why not just scan the PCM see the errors?


there are 4 Silverado's, 1500 to 3500, sorry no ESP today.???
not told do you have DRL lamps, as seen in CANADA not USA 2011
no engine told, gas and diesel not wired the same at all so
why not just post the VIN so I can tell you what you drive and RPO list too.
ok, we check all fuses no just 1 or 2.


learn that modern cars use a network (called can-bus)_
and if 20 other fuse blow the can bus can fail
so not scanning the PCM first is super bad idea. see why?
1500 (roll dice land)
there are 6 DRL fuse and 4 relays. see?

I guess you have ACL, per this page 1 ,in front lamps
heads

The headlamps may be turned on in 2 different ways. First, when the driver places the headlamp switch in the HEADLAMP position, for normal operation. Second, with the headlamp switch placed in the AUTO position, for automatic lamp control (ALC). During ALC the headlamps will be in DRL operation in daylight conditions, or headlamp operation in low light conditions.
Headlamp ON/OFF control is determined by the body control module (BCM) by a signal on the headlamp switch on input circuit when the headlamp switch is in the HEAD position. When the headlamp switch is in the AUTO position, the BCM determines headlamps ON/OFF by the voltage from the ambient light sensor.
If the headlight switch is left in the ON position, the inadvertent power control feature will turn off the headlights approximately 10?minutes after the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position. If the driver places the headlight switch in the ON position after the ignition switch has been turned OFF, or if the ignition switch is in the ACCY position, the headlights will remain on until turned off or the battery runs dead.
The high beam indicator is illuminated when the instrument cluster receives a GMLAN serial data message from the BCM that the high beams are illuminated.

I still; call fuses bad
low beams dead driving is hard hard failure.
and many fuses for ALC
the service manual covers all this.

Dear sir

I think there is some short circuit between two contact/terminal.


Hope answer the question

What fuse's ? Ignition , PCM , ? Won't start how ? explain - when you turn key to the start position does any happen ? if nothing happens this is referred to as a no crank - no start , now if the engine turns over but doesn't start , this is referred to as a crank - no start condition. So which does your vehicle have ?

This is common about this time on these Camrys. I own three. The AM2 fuse is blowing because a coil, capacitor, or supressor has gone bad in the distributor. To test this disconnect the two wire connectors to the distributor. Replace the AM2 fuse. Turn the ignition. If the fuse doesn't blow. The distributor.

I would disconnect the noise filter located by the ignition coil/ignitor, have seen them short out and cause the AM2 fuse to blow. Also Disconnect coil, dist and see if short goes away

if the fuse is blowing when you turn key to start position then this is where to look for the fault ,between the ignition switch and the relay then the other side of the relay to the starter motor solonoid

a wire is shorting to earth so blowing fuse or what ever is on the fuse blowing circuit is drawing excessive current

It sounds like you have a short in some wiresets. Check the wires directly connected to the ignition. If this persists, without any problems with wires, I suggest checking the amperage and voltage on your battery to make sure they are at operational levels. Anything over 14.8 volts and you start to fry electrical components and... blow fuses.

On top of the cover of the fuses it will tell you what that fuse was for. Odds are whatever it is, is shorting out and will need to be replaced.