Towing with automatic in overdrive

The chart that I see shows that a F-250 can tow between 12,300-13,300 lbs. A F-250 Super Duty gas can tow 15,700 lb gooseneck, a diesel can tow 18,500 lb.

1. Torque
   • Torque is a measurement tool that shows a vehicle's ability to tow and accelerate. The 2000 Sportage generates 135 ft-lb of torque when measured at 4,000 rpm. It tows up to 2,000 lb.
     
   Power
   • The 2000 Sportage features a 2.0-liter I4 engine that produces 130 horsepower at 6,000 rpm. Five-speed manual overdrive transmissions are standard for all models, but the four-door models offer the option of getting a four-speed automatic overdrive transmission instead. The compression ratio is 9.1 to one and the engine displacement is 1,991 cc. The bore and stroke are 3.26 and 3.62 inches.
     
   Fuel
   • All manual versions get 20 miles per gallon in the city and 23 mpg on the highway. The automatic four-wheel drive models get 19 mpg in the city and 22 mpg on the highway. The automatic two-wheel drive models get 18 mpg in the city and 21 mpg on the highway. The two-door model has a 14-gallon fuel tank and the other models have a 15.8-gallon fuel tank.
     
   Measurements
   • The two-door Sportage is 156.4 inches long with a wheelbase of 92.9 inches. The four-door versions are 170.3 inches and the wheelbase is 104.3 inches. All versions are 68.1 inches wide and 65 inches tall. The front and rear tracks are both 56.7 inches. All versions sit 7.9 inches off the ground. The two-wheel drive, four-door versions weigh 3,186 lb if manual and 3,230 lb if automatic. The two-door, two-wheel drive model is 3,108 lb. The two door, four-wheel drive model is 3,230 lb. The four-door, four-wheel drive models are 3,352 lb if manual and 3,396 lb if automatic.
     

Read more: 2000 KIA Sportage Torque Specs ' eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/list_7530119_2000-kia-sportage-torque-specs.html#ixzz1xfAstACS

If you know a mechanic now's the time to cal. The part is internal but might be replaceable without removing the tranny.l

your solenoid pack is failing, how long you been having this problem will dictate if you will need a transmision rebuilt, any way first... buy a new solenoid pack auto parts store or local trans shop, hunt for best price, there is new revised version of this part (does not requiere a gasket, and requieres removall of a small plate under old pack, done at same time).
The part in question is mounted in front of trans under cooler lines that go to radiator, need to remove this rubber lines to gain acces, also you will need a 1'inch socket to remove speed sensor rigth on top of solenoid pack, dont forget to disconect it, all is left are three 10mm bolst taht holds the pack, remove it and steel plate under it clean gasted material and install new pack.then sensor hoses plug it clean any codes or disconect battery for a few minutes, then drive vehicle let it shift into firts, make a stop star over let shift into second stop, then try an ave where it can hold 45miles at least until it shifts into overdrive, pull into a side street and stop, your trans has relearn shifting.
Hopes this really help you

If you have a manual transmission model, check the wiring to the overdrive solenoid (M46,M47 transmission with type M overdrive) and check all fuses. This solenoid simply opens a check valve that allows the overdrive to function (DO NOT reverse the vehicle with the overdrive engaged or damage will result to the unit itself).
Automatic transmission models also have an overdrive override solenoid, bottom left side. If it is stuck in the override mode, check for shorted wiring to the solenoid. Also check the switch which can bind closed. If you can put a voltmeter on the wiring to the solenoid itself, check for voltage; if you have voltage and the switch is known good, the wiring is faulty. No voltage means the solenoid plunger is stuck down. Remove the solenoid and repair or replace it. In most cases replacement of a well-used item is better than repair.
All models: Always verify the condition of the wiring and connectors before condemning the unit. In most cases a voltmeter will rule out what the solenoid isn't doing. If you have voltage at the terminals on manual transmission models but no overdrive function, the solenoid has either seized or the coil has burned out. On automatic transmission models voltage at the terminals means the opposite: the solenoid will override overdrive and keep it in the third gear. No voltage for manual means no overdrive; no voltage on the terminals for automatic models means overdrive engages normally; if this is the case, replace the solenoid.
If, after all this checks out, on automatic models, this means that the transmission valve body has plugged up with deposits. For manual models, it means roughly the same (the overdrive is essentially a one-gear automatic transmission) and it also indicates that something is amiss with the hydraulic circuits, in both cases. Low line pressure can also cause this to happen in both types which means either the fluid is bad, the valve body is dirty, the screen is clogged or the main oil pump in the transmission (automatic models) is leaking. Always perform a thorough check before condemning either transmission type - they are conventional in design and very sturdy.
On AW-7x transmissions, no brake bands are used, therefore only clutch packs are employed. On the M46 and M47 manual models, the overdrive is a bolt on unit (type J or type M, depending on year). On the ZF series of automatic transmissions, the overdrive is integral to the transmission, being a true fourth gear. All models use a solenoid to control the upper gear range.
Note also that if you have the manual transmission, it may prove risky to rebuild it if you can beat the synchro by a quick change. Rebuilds offer up different wear surfaces to the case and can make a noisy transmission noisier.
Automatic models utilize clutch packs front to back. Band brakes were eliminated entirely, and when these start to fail the most noticeable problem is sloppy, hard shifting even after a fluid and screen job. The clutch wear surfaces decrease in friction holding and become thin. This implies loose clutches and this implies poor shift quality.
Always change the fluid completely (including the oil cooler, note it is thermostatically controlled) and clean the magnets of all debris. Introduce new oil into the system and test again.

High to low /low to high ratio, you will need to be stopped and the transmission in neutral for this to be changed.
The 2wd - Auto - Lock switch can be switched at any time, as it operates an electromagnetic clutch - 2wd is rear wheels driving only - Auto - is to automatically engage 4wd when wheel slippage is detected (this also happens when turning at intersections, due to the inside wheels having a shorter path to the outside wheels, and can give a binding effect on sealed roads (I don't drive with it in auto on sealed roads) auto is excellent if you get, or expect wheel spin from an intersection when wet, just flick it on before or when you have wheel spin, also on gravel roads, having it on auto will greatly reduce the sliding of the back end, and make the car noticeably more stable.
Lock - this locks the differential, which further reduces wheel spin, when in mud / snow, but this will also make the car not want to turn corners, due to it resisting the different distances traveled by the inside and outside wheels.
A/T switch - this actually has 3 positions, and changes the shifting points of the automatic transmission - the middle is normal - Hold is to hold the gear longer, to improve fuel economy, and not change down (kick down) as quickly - Power has the opposite effect, it makes the transmission change down sooner under acceleration.
Also the O/D (overdrive) button on the side of the Tee shift lever, is to engage / disengage overdrive (5th gear) - never do heavy towing in overdrive, this will cook the transmission and overheat the engine (due to the radiator being used as a heat exchanger for the transmission fluid.
Another little quirk - if the transmission light starts flashing every 40 to 50 km, this can indicate that the wheels are different diameters (a flat tyre, or tyres have been swapped around and the spare is more or less worn than the other tyres), the computer will pickup that the wheels are turning at different speeds.
When cold, it is normal for the transmission to stay in 3rd (2-3 minutes of driving), until it has warmed up, and then stay in 4th for a few more km's (5-6 minutes), before it has warmed up enough to change into 5th (overdrive).

look in the driver door it will tell you i pull a gooseneck with 30000 on it all the time with no prolbem my wieght is 30000

the 1500 hd rated tow 10300 lb haul in bed 3129lb but the 4x4 tends to reduce tow capacity by about 200 to 400 lbs

If you have an automatic transmission on your truck, i would be guessing that the clutch pack for the overdrive is worn out, as in an automatic tranny, you usually have 2 seprate sets of clutch packs, one for the normal drive gears and one for the overdrive gears. Although getting a tranny opened up for any reason will be pretty costly if you have a mechanic do it for you, and if you are not already trained to tweak inside an automatic tranny, i suggest you do not do it yourself, as it is very complicated and delicate. So before you spend a wad of money, always start with checking the transmission fluid level in the tranny, as missing some oil in there will sometimes cause pretty weird and unexpected results. So if the levels are good and everything that has to do with to oil is OK, as I said, probably the overdrive clutch pack that needs to be replaced, and hoping it is not the solenoid bodies that are defective, cause if that is the case, then it will cost about as much to repair the tranny then to buy a new one.

is it a gas or a diesel? its commen for the gas motor to get really crappy millage try with the tow button off and the shifting should improve, but the gas try changing the air filter to a k&N or something better like it