Will not start cranks changed distrib, brain my mech can not seem to figure it out

The engine control module supplies a voltage of about 0.43 volt between terminals "B3" and "B2". (If measured with a 10 megohm digital voltmeter, this may read as low as 0.32 volts.) The Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) varies the voltage within a range of about 1 volt, if the exhaust is rich, down through about 0.10 volt, if exhaust is lean. The sensor is like an open circuit and produces no voltage, when it is below about 360°C (600°F). An open sensor circuit, or cold sensor, cause "Open Loop" operation.

Test Description:

Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 44 is set, when the O2S signal voltage is fixed below 0.100 mV and the following:
Throttle position sensor greater than 9.8%.
No DTC 21 or 33.
The engine has been running at least for 180 seconds.
System is operating in "Closed Loop".
Oxygen signal voltage is steady between 0.347 volt and 0.547 volt.
Engine Operation Temperature 69.5°C (155°F).
All of the above conditions present for 25 sec.
Integrator not at 128.
Diagnostic Aids:

Using the "Scan tool", observe the block learn value at different revolution per minute. The "Scan tool" also displays the block cells, so the block learn values can be checked in each of the cells, to determine when the DTC 44 may have been set. If the conditions for DTC 44 exist, the block learn values will be around 150.

Check for ground in wire between connector sensor.
Fuel Contamination - Water, even in small amounts, near the in-tank fuel pump inlet can be delivered to the injector. The water causes a lean HO2S signal and can set a DTC 44.
Fuel Pressure - System will be lean if pressure is too low. If may be necessary to monitor fuel pressure, while driving the car at various road speeds and/or loads to confirm. See Fuel System diagnosis CHART A-5.
Exhaust Leaks - If there is an exhaust leak, the engine can cause outside air to be pulled into the exhaust and past the sensor. Vacuum or crankcase leaks can cause a lean condition.
If DTC 44 is intermittent, refer to Diagnosis By Symptom.
Fuel Injectors - The wrong fuel injector(s) could be the cause of a lean HO2S signal condition. Verify that the correct fuel injector(s) are installed in the vehicle. Refer to the service parts manual for correct part and part number.

Hi,

Based on your post/description "...power coming out of coil to distributor but no spark at the plug..." and "...changed distrib, brain...", and you have ruled out any sensors, then components to be check would be:

1. rotor
2. distributor cap
3. high tension/sparkplug wires
   

The fuel smell is it building up from no apark
the best bet is the module or the crank angle sensor

Pls find it .

www.DataManuals.net

>>..
consumerguideauto.howstuffworks.com/1992-to-2002-isuzu-trooper.htm - 66k

HI..
The Crank Angle Sensor, on your Isuzo, Is inside of the dristibutor. Is part of the distributor.
My computer Don't show a Ignition module for your car.
But showme a Power Transistor, that work with the Ignition coil.
It's has to be located near of the ignition coil.
With a connector of 2 wires colour Blue. The wire cining from the ECM to the Ignition coil. pass for the power transistor.
Check the capacitor that is located beside of the ignition coil.
Or close too. With a single connector with a wire Black/yell.
Need to have power from the fuse # 14.

I hope this information can be useful on your Isuzo.

First be sure that the distributor is turning,if not check the timing belt.
Secondly be sure your plugs are not fuel fouled from all the cranking,if they are clean or replace them or the vehicle will never start. If the plugs are fouled with raw fuel smell the oil.Does it smell like fuel? If so cahnge it. This will cause a rich condition and will wash down the cylinder walls.You may want to unplug the fuel pump to prevent a flooding condition during diagnostics.
If the distributor is turning are there any fault codes in memory? If there are faults record them ,clear and crank the engine for 10 seconds,did any faults return? What are they?
If there are no faults while cranking the engine for 10 seconds check for 12 volts at the + coil.
If there is 12 volts present connect a test light to + batt and -Coil and crank the engine.
If the light pulses the primary ignition is ok,if the light does not come on or it lights but does not pulse the problem is in the HEP circuit or ground side of the coil control.
If there is not any voltage locate the underhood diagnostic connector and with the key on ground the DB/YL wire. The fuel pump will run and there should be 12 volts at the + coil and DG/BK wire at the injector harness and HO2S (if equipped).If power is not present is it not present only at the coil? If that is the case check the wire from the ASD to the Coil for an open.
If the vehicle has a HO2S be sure to check the harness thoroughly for rub thru or damage where it sits by the manifold.
If power is now present the ASD relay and circuit are ok and the problem is in the HEP circuit.

Check your crank and or camshaft position sensors. If your camshaft position sensor or circuit is bad your car will turn over, you will bet power to your plugs if you test them and your fuel system will be pressurized but your car will not start.

You need to check that your timing chain is stil intact. Get someone to help. Take the oil filler cap off and look down in the hole. Have your faithful assistant try to crank it while you watch to see if the cams are moving. If they don't then the chain has most likely given up the ghost. If there is gas and fire and the chain is good it should at least crank, might not run long but it will crank.

Make sure you're getting a strong blue spark, not dull orange. The ignition module is a common culprit, especially when the heat sink grease on them starts to get old and they overheat.
Hope that helps.........

Engine Cranks But Will Not Start