You don't mention any unusual sound since the first incident, and I would think a bearing problem would have a noticeable continuous sound. A torn torque converter seal might have shifted out of the way when the engine stopped so it wouldn't squeal, but the resulting fluid bypass around the blades would be a major power robber, so I lean towards this hypothesis. (If you have a manual transmission, a clutch breakdown might likewise produce slippage, but again, that would probably sound unusual.)
Did you get any check engine codes?
Hi,
Firstly on this model vehicle the timing of the valves and the injector pump can only be checked with a diagnostic tool.
The squealing sound could have been a number of things - Loose fan-belt, out of timed injector pump.
The loss of power has to be attributed to the timing of the valve train and the injector pump, as I said previously this can only be correctly check by a diagnostic tool.
However because the engine is out, this will be difficult to do now.
Let me know if you need more information.
Thanks
Jason
Check the main bearings and end caps on the Crank. You will have to remove them for this check. It sounds like you spun one of the bearings on the crank. With that kind of mileage they are due for inspection and change.
Spun main bearing accounts for the noise and the lose of power. The noise was metal to metal un lubricated contact and friction. You don't believe it is the water pump, based on your post, and you checked the turbo fans and reported them ok so that eliminates them from the equation. It could still be a bearing set in the turbo but that is less likely than the bearing being spun. It's an easy check. Pull the end cap and inspect the bearing and crank for wear, if the bearing has spun you will see that damage, if it hasn't you can replace them. Should take about 20 minutes to check them all since you pulled the motor.
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The items to check are
Waste gate on the turbo
Please email me the turbo model #
Example: G3
EGR valve (stuck open or not moving freely) / need to remove carbon in EGR valve
(if equipped in emission state / country)
Clean EGR passage tube.
REMOVE ALL CARBON with WD-40 or PB Blaster
Check for vacuum leaks.
YOU MUST replace EGR base mount gasket.
Inspect timing belt tensioner.
Jumped timing / belt
Check for burn / loose rubber particle on the bottom of the timing belt cover.
Recheck timing marks / dots and make sure it's line up correctly.
You should change the water pump and T-belt at the same time.
Check the service record for the last water pump change.
Spin the water pump and check for free movement and leak.
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After everything are check out then open the valve cover to do a valve adjustment.
You should do valve adjustment every year or 12-18,000 miles.
Monitor for oil leaks from rear main seal,front seal and valve cover.
Check for white smoke at the tailpipe after 10-15 minutes of warm up time to rule out head gasket damage.
check for cross mix of oil and coolant.
TDI should go well over 200,000 miles before major over-haul.
Hi, you mentioned timing belt looks ok, but did you check the timing marks? Could the belt have slipped a couple of teeth and maybe the valve timing is off a bit?
TIMING BELT SLIPPED.CHECK WITH MECHANIC SEE IF HE REPLACED TIMING BELT TENSIONER IF NOT.NEED REPLACING.IF MECHANIC REPLACED TIMING BELT FORGOT TO TIGHTEN IT.OR DIDNT TIGHTEN IT ENOUGH CAUSING TIMING BELT SLIP ENOUGH TO THROW OFF THE INJECTION PUMP TIMING.WHICH WILL LOW POWER PROBLEM.TAKE CAR BACK TO SHOP.TELL MECHANIC TIMING BELT SLIP TIME.NO POWER CAR MAKING TERRIBLE NOISE.HE SHOULD FIX NOT COST YOU A DIME.
It is very hard to say what is causing the lack of power. But I would suggest checking all of the belts. Something could have locked up causing the belts to squeal and robbing power from the engine. If the water pump locked up then it would squeal and cause lack of power. Make sure that everything turns freely besides the crankshaft. If something is froze up it will make the belt very hard to turn and won't let the engine build horsepower.
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I mentioned "Squeeling" and water pump to just reference the level of sound the noise made. The car ran fine after noise, except for low power.
Timing is OK.
Good suggestions, but does not account for the noise. I am looking for a "cause and effect" solution. Thanks.
Thanks for suggestion. I will check the bearings since engine is out car won't be too hard. Don't see how this would result in loss of power though.
Thanks. Actually, I didn't hear a squeeling sound. I referred to sqeeling brakes as the LEVEL of the noise as in decibels. Appreciate the effort.
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