2001 Oldsmobile silhouette. Cold day, 25 F. Engine had been off about two hours and only driven three miles prior to that. After driving about 2 miles at 35 mph, the hot light came on and temp gauge was full hot. Slowed down and temp light went out and temp returned to normal but fluctuating. Drove about one more mile to home. With engine still running, temp gauge was normal but slowly fluctuating, heater was putting out cold air, coolant reservoir was cold, and radiator hoses were only warm (could easily hold them) and radiator was warm. Cycled heater temp control from full hot to full cold and back to full hot. Heater began putting out warm air. Temp gauge stayed normal. Hoses were getting hotter
this same thing happened to my 2001 olds silhoutte this winter. It was a ruptured port in the aluminum intake. Cost $900 to fix.this same thing happened to my 2001 olds silhoutte this winter. It was a ruptured port in the aluminum intake. Cost $900 to fix.
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Time for Intake Gaskets and possibly head gaskets, very common problem with these, the intake gaskets go bad and the coolant actually burns in the cylinder and of course the cylinder pumps air into the coolant system because of intake gaskets being bad. :-(
Hello, Some hard codes will not reset the light to off by driving. A large parts house like Auto Zone will read your codes for free. They cannot turn off the light by clearing the codes. A best way would be to find someone with a code scanner to find out which malfunction has tripped the code ( or codes ), clear those codes , which turns out the light. Drive the unit for 50 or more miles, if the light comes back on there is a malfunction with some engine management system. The codes will need to be retrieved with a code reader to find out how to repair. Sorry , but it takes a bit of time and effort to solve the issue. Wayne
does the temp gauge or light come on? is the car over heating? .... oh and a starter can test fine when its cold, but the heat soak from the engine and exhaust affect it's performance drastically. it sounds like you need a new starter.
take out idle air motor stuff a plastic bag in the hole deep and pack it in there hard hold it in there,2 people, start motor dont take your hand off of key engine may run away with rpm and need to be turned off if you didnt seal that hole well if it idles really low and doesnt race then bye air idle motor ifit still races the same then check for vaccumn leaks if you cant under stand then dont try this
a. try turning the key to accessory and leaving it there until the error light goes out. b. if you haven't yet, drive it 20-30 miles and let the main computer reset itself. hopefully, that should solve the problem! good luck!
The system may need to be recharged, All A/C system will have small leaks though the seals and when you lose enough R134 the system will stop blowing cold air.
I am guessing that it stop working now as to that there is no cold air but the blower fan is still working right??
Or do you mean that there is cold air and then it stops making cold air after 50 miles but will work again after a few hours of the can not running. If that's the case, the A/C relay may be bad and when it heats up the relay fails and needs to be replaced.
Good luck and keep me posted.
sounds like the idle air control motor is sticking , not sure what engine you have 3.4 litre ?? also you can ck the throttle plate right on top where the throttle cable bracket assembly part of that bracket holds down a vaccum line that has a rubber gromnet that after time leaks causing idle surge , hope this helps
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