I am getting a used engine because my h23a1 blew, I was wondering if there are any components I should replace during this process.

Did you jump the battery backwards, positive to negative? If so you have burned out the computer modules most likely.

here is a u-tube video with a good tip for making sure the timing marks dont get move once set may help
How to replace timing belt on Honda Prelude 92 96 2 3 lt H23a1

I would take it back to the mechanic that replaced the gasket. It could have not been torqued down evenly and blew again.

The flywheel is no the problem in most cases, the new clutch us what is out of balance. Did you use a premium new clutch kit or a jippo discount auto parts store one?

no you cannot rebuild distributor

If the water seems to be coming out of the engine block itself it would be the welch plugs. To actually see them you either need detachable eyes or a flashlight and a small mirror. Welch plugs are brass plugs inserted into holes in the engine block. These holes were put there during manufacturing in order to clear the sand used in the casting process from the water channels. They do tend to rust through and replacing them can be a serious headache due to the diffyculty in accessing these plugs. Basically you would have to strip everything(ancilliary components, inlet, exhaust manifold) off the engine to replace one. It can be removed by hammering a screwdriver through one and wedging it out. Replacement entails using a circular drift to hammer it back in (after the hole has been cleared of rust)
Also bear in mind that if one is rusted through, then the others are not far behind. depending on the engine it could have any number from 4 to 10 of these in the sides of the block alone.
The picture shows a welch plug (circled) on a 26 year old Nissan without aircon, power steering or fuel injection and it is still the only one visible on the engine without removing components.

When torquing items today very little is done with just "numbers" in the process. Now you have to have an angle meter to complete the process so when you see me say to torque a specific number "plus so many degrees", this is how it's done. This is the meter: Now, Here are the specs for installing the head:
Cylinder Head Bolt

• First Pass

30 N·m
22 lb ft

• Final Pass

155 degrees


Here is the sequence shown in picture form:
Also, you will need to discard the old bolts because they are "torque to yeild" bolts and CANNOT be reused. The reason: "Torque to yeild" bolts actually stretch during the torque process and once they've gone through this process they can't be reused because they no longer are able to "clamp" the head because they are too long. Hope this helps your repair project.

Why do you think you have blown the engine, what are the symptoms? What happened?

Check the fuses. There is a good chance you might have blown one or a few if you some how didnt connect the jumper correctly which would explain some of the accessories not working.