New brakes Installed new brakes front and rear including new wheel cylinders, shoes and flexible brake lines in rear at drums, new calipers and pads in front, new master cylinder. Cant get front drivers side caliper to compress and rear passenger side brake pads wont expand. Front caliper is full of fluid, when i crack bleeder open steady stream of fluid pours out, no air. Same with rear passenger side, wheel cylinder full of oil. Filled lines with new fluid using gravity feed method. Any ideas whats wrong??

Once you have bled the air from the brake lines,clamp off the front brake hoses carefully.Does the pedal feel better now?
Then the pad /caliper fit is allowing too much play.Is the pedal the same?Then clamp the rear hose and try the pedal.Is it fine with the rear hose clamped?If so we now know the problem is at the rear brakes.One common low pedal rear brake cause is brake shoes that do not fit the drums.Remove the drums and look at the shoes,are they showing contact wear fully or just in the middle of the shoe?Remove a shoe and place it in the drum.Can you rock the shoe against the drum surface?Once drums have been resurfaced,the shoes will not fit fully against the drum allowing the shoe the flex when applying pressure to it and this can easily create a low soft brake pedal. Of course rear brake adjustment must be correct once brake shoe contact is correct.To correct brake shoe contact,have your shoes re arc-ed to fit resurfaced drums or install new drums.Don't overlook brake master cyl /brake pedal push rod adjustment too.

Hi Terry,
Please check out this Link : http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/featured/books_and_manuals/1461465620.html
Here you will find the details regarding your Car and how you can check and repair the breaks without taking it to a mechanic.
I hope this helps.....

is ther a rear brake equaliser on the rear axle? this is usually spring operated that pulls up on the rear brake limiter depending on load in vehicle may be stuck in the vehicle loaded position when the vehicle isnt carrying much weight worth a look , just jack up rear end and look for spring device centre of rear axle attached to a device with the brake lines entering/exiting if there get vehicle as high as safe to do then put blocks under rear wheels then slowly lower jack and look to see if the spring device moves down with the vehicle if not this could be the problem as is exerting pressure to rear brakes so causing them to over heat keep me posted

Lift the front of your Ford F-250 off of the ground using a jack and jack stands. Remove the wheels from the Ford with a lug nut wrench to prepare the truck for servicing. 2 Open the hood on the engine compartment and take the lid off of the master cylinder that bolts to the brake assister on the driver's side firewall.3 Remove the hex-head bolts on the back of the brake caliper with a socket. With the bolts removed, pull the caliper off of the Ford's brake rotor.4 Pull the old brake pads out of the caliper and discard them. Squeeze the brake piston back into the backside brake caliper with pliers, and then insert the new pads into the brake caliper.5 Pull the rotor cap cover off the middle of the rotor with a screwdriver and use a socket to remove the nut located behind the cover.6 Pull the rotor off of the wheel spindle.7 Remove the old wheel bearings from the brake rotor and insert them into the new rotor. If the old wheel bearings are worn, replace them with new bearings.8 Slide the new rotor onto the wheel spindle and secure it using a bolt and socket. After you tighten the bolt, press the cover back onto the rotor.9 Place the caliper on the rotor and secure it with a socket and hex-head bolts. 10 Duplicate the process on the passenger side of the F-250. 11 Close the master cylinder after putting the wheels back on the Ford and lowering it to the ground. Press on the brake pedal to seat the pads against the rotor
Replace the F-250's Rear Brakes 1 lift the rear of the Ford F-250 off the ground with a jack and jack stands. Remove the wheels from the Ford with a lug nut wrench.2 Place a strip of paint on the back of the brake drum and rear brake drum cover so you can position the brake drum orrectly when you put it back on. If you plan to install new brake drums on your Ford F-250, skip this step. 3 Place the brake drum puller on the brake drum and pull the drum from the wheel hub. The method for attaching the brake drum puller depends on the brake drum puller that you use. 4 Remove the springs that attach the brake shoes to the wheel hub by pulling them off with pliers.5 Lift the old brake shoes off of the wheel hub and place the new brake shoes on the wheel hub. Secure the new shoes with the springs.6 Pound the brake drum onto the axle hub with a rubber mallet.7 Duplicate the process on the passenger side of the Ford.8 Put the wheels back on the F-250, lower it to the ground and, then press on the brake pedal to seat the shoes against the brake drum.

brakes pads go with calipers and disc brakes,brake shoes go with drum brakes which has wheel cylinders.

Your Buick has front disc brakes...and rear drum brakes...the usual concern is the front pads as they are used more...these are the easiest pads to replace...as you only need to remove the caliper from the rotor with 2 bolts to lift off...Be sure to push the piston all the way back into the caliper to install new pads...rotors are pop offs too...The rear drum is different...the brake shoes are held on with clips and springs...try keeping one of the shoe assemblies intact while you switch out the other shoes...be sure to inspect the rear wheel brake cylinders for possible leaking...usually an oil build up inside the brake drum...these are inexpensive and should be switched out on a 93 Buick...:) Hope this helps.

the outer seals to the wheel cylinder are bad. Replace that item

Rear DRUM instructions are first If you would Like Pictures and all They Must Be Emailed as TOO LARGE For FixYa's Format im at aol.com
Just use my Knickname@ and let me know where to send.

1. Raise and support rear of vehicle, then remove wheel and tire assembly.
2. Remove brake drum. If brake drum cannot be removed easily, insert a suitable screwdriver through hole in backing plate, then push adjuster lever away from adjuster and back of adjustment tension.
3. Remove tension spring, using a suitable tool, then remove rear shoe hold-down spring and pin. Remove rear brake shoe and anchor spring, Fig. 7.
   1. On Land Cruiser models, remove front hold-down spring using a suitable tool, then disconnect the parking brake cable from the parking brake bellcrank, Fig. 7.
   2. On Pickup, 4Runner, 4WD T100 and 4WD Tacoma models, remove front shoe hold-down spring and pin, using a suitable tool, then disconnect No. 1 parking brake cable from No. 3 parking brake bellcrank.
   3. On 2WD T100 models, proceed as follows:
   1. Remove E-ring, then automatic adjusting lever and C-washer, then parking brake lever. Disconnect brake line from wheel cylinder using a suitable container to catch fluid.
   2. Remove wheel cylinder. Remove following parts from wheel cylinder: two boots, two pistons, two pistons cups and spring.
   1. On models except 2WD T100, remove front brake with strut, then disconnect parking brake cable from front shoe. Remove parking brake cable No. 2.
   2. Remove adjusting lever spring, then the adjuster from front shoe.
   Inspection
   
   1. Measure brake drum inside diameter. Inside diameter should be 11.61 inches,
      1. Measure brake shoe lining thickness, Fig. 3. Minimum thickness should be .04 inch on models except on T100 models and .039 inch on T100 models.
      2. Inspect brake lining and drum for proper contact and replace drum or shoes as necessary.
      3. Inspect wheel cylinder for corrosion or damage.
      4. Inspect backing plate for wear or damage.
      5. Inspect bellcrank components for bending, wear or damage.
      6. Apply a suitable lubricant to backing plate contact areas.
      Installation
      
      1. On 2WD T100 models, proceed as follows:
      1. Apply lithium soap base glycol grease to piston cups, pistons and boots.
      2. Assemble and install wheel cylinder.
      3. Connect brake line to cylinder.
      1. Apply high temperature grease to following parts:
      1. Backing plate and brake shoe contact points.
      2. Anchor plate and brake shoe contact points.
      3. Adjusting bolt.
      4. Adjuster and brake shoe contact points.
      1. Apply a suitable lubricant to adjuster bolt threads and end.
      2. Assemble adjuster to lever, then install adjuster lever spring.
      3. On Land Cruiser models, install parking brake lever cable to parking brake shoe, then attach cable to bellcrank.
      4. On Pickup, 4Runner, 4WD T100 and 4WD Tacoma models, install No. 1 parking brake cable to parking brake lever shoe, then attach the other side of cable to No. 3 bellcrank.
      5. Position front shoe in place with end of shoe inserted into piston, then install shoe hold-down spring and pin using a suitable tool.
      6. Assemble anchor spring to front and rear shoe, then install rear shoe with end inserted in piston.
      7. Install rear shoe hold-down spring and pin, then the tension spring.
      8. If necessary, adjust bellcrank as follows:
      1. Lightly pull bellcrank in direction "A", Fig. 8, until there is no slack in part "B".
         1. Rotate adjusting bolt until dimension "C" is .016-.031 inch.
         2. Lock adjusting bolt with locknut, when connect parking brake cable to bellcrank.
         3. Install tension spring.
         1. Ensure proper parking brake travel.
         2. Pull adjusting lever cable upward, then release and ensure adjusting bolt rotates. If bolt does not rotate, check for improper installation of rear brakes.
         3. Adjust strut to shortest possible length, then install drum.
         4. Pull parking brake lever fully upward. Repeat process several times.
            1. Remove drum, then check for proper clearance, Fig. 4. Clearance should be .024 inch. If clearance is not as specified, check parking brake system.
            2. Install brake drum, then bleed and refill brake system.
            3. Install wheel and tire assembly, then lower vehicle.

FRONT ROTORS & PADS

1. Remove caliper.
2. Remove cap and snap ring, Fig. 10, then remove cone washers with tapered punch.
3. Insert suitable length bolts into flange bolt holes, then tighten bolts evenly and remove flanges.
4. Remove free wheel hub cover and snap ring, then remove nut, spring washer and cone washer with suitable tapered punch.
5. Remove free wheel hub body and gasket.
6. Remove locknut, lock washer and adjusting nut.
7. Remove axle hub and brake disc as an assembly.
8. Remove oil seal and inner bearing from hub.
9. Reverse procedure to install. Torque adjusting nut to 43 ft. lbs., then back off nut. Torque nut to 18 ft. lbs. Using spring scale attached to hub bolt, check that preload is 1.4-12.6. Install lockwasher and locknut, if equipped. Torque locknut to 35 ft. lbs., and recheck preload. Secure lockwasher by bending one tab inward and one tab outward.

1. Raise and support front of vehicle, then remove tire and wheel assembly.
2. Remove clip and hole pins, Fig. 9.
3. Remove anti-rattle spring and shim(s) if equipped, then remove brake pads.
4. Lubricate caliper housing with suitable brake grease at pad contact points.
5. Reverse procedure to install.

1. Possible air in Driver side rear giving pass side upper hand so to speak
2. Has drum ever been wet with brake fluid?
3. driver side REAR self Adjuster rusty and not working properly
4. Sticky Wheel cylinder at rear driver side