Hello! Is the vehicle equipped with a B230F or B230FT (turbo)?...
Guru...............Saailer
I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867
Hello! Here is the diagram for a B234F At TDC...A two belt engine...The installation procedure is lengthy...I can not provide the entire repair manual section due to space limitations...If you have specific questions do not hesitate to ask...Saailer
Hello! I received your engine identification just after sending the 234F diagram...Give me a few minutes to send B230F...Saailer
Hello!
B230F and B230FT Engines
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Disconnect the negative battery cable...
Remove the timing belt cover as described in this section...
Set the engine to TDC of the No. 1 cylinder.
To remove the tension from the belt, loosen the nut for the tensioner and press the idler roller back...The tension spring can be locked in this position by inserting the shank end of a 3mm drill through the pusher rod...
Remove the 6 retaining bolts and the crankshaft pulley...
Remove the belt, taking care not to bend it at any sharp angles... The belt should be replaced at 45,000 mile (72,500 km) intervals, if it becomes oil soaked or frayed or if it is on a vehicle that has been sitting idle for any length of time...
To install:
7. If the crankshaft, idler shaft or camshaft were disturbed white the belt was out, align each shaft with its corresponding index mark to assure proper valve timing and ignition timing, as follows:
A. Rotate the crankshaft so the notch in the convex crankshaft gear belt guide aligns with the embossed mark on the front cover (12 o'clock position).
B. Rotate the idler shaft so the dot on the idler shaft drive sprocket aligns with the notch on the timing belt rear cover (4 o'clock position)...
C. Rotate the camshaft so the notch in the camshaft sprocket inner belt guide aligns with the notch in the forward edge of the valve cover (12 o'clock position)...
Install the timing belt (don't use any sharp tools) over the sprockets and then over the tensioner roller. Some new belts have yellow marks... The 2 lines on the drive belt should fit toward the crankshaft marks. The next mark should then fit toward the intermediate shaft marks, etc...
Loosen the tensioner nut and let the spring tension automatically take up the slack... Tighten the tensioner nut to 37 ft. Ibs. (51Nm)...Rotate the crankshaft one full revolution clockwise and make sure the timing marks still align...
saailer
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Ok thanks for the update.Helpmech.
Get the car to a volvo mechanic for repair of the flex plate.
Get Ford timing tool kit, part = otc-6488 (For about $119 USD on eBay)
4 timing chains (3 front including the optional balance shaft chain + 1 back)
2 cam guides (1 front + 1 back)
2 oil tensioners (1 front + 1 back)
1 jackshaft tensioner (1 front)
1 jackshaft guide/cassette (1 front)
1 balance shaft tensioner (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)
1 balance shaft guide (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)
new sprockets + bolts + gaskets etc.
new spark plugs + throttle body cleaner + lithium grease spray + oil change
head gaskets
some
of these parts (the front stuff) can be obtained as a primary timing
chain rattle noise kit Part# = 2u3e-6d256-** ab for 4*4 & bb for
2*4.
The kits also have later part numbers for us$ 76 @ http://www.fordpartsonline.com
My parts order (without the balance shaft stuff) was:
$76.04 KIT-TENSIONER TIMING 2u3e-6d256-ab
$47.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Timing chain, TIMING CHAIN, Explorer, Mountaineer, Rear - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC
$57.36 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Chain guide, CHAIN GUIDE, Explorer, Mountaineer, Jackshaft To Cam - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC
$103.22 Engine, Overhaul gasket set, OVERHAUL GASKET SET, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper (Valve Grind) - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC
$28.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Tensioner, TENSIONER, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC
Its
worth mentioning that this procedure is not enjoyable at all and
should be undertaken with at least 8 full days to completion (I recon
you could do it in half the time the second time).
It is basically on entire engine re-build with both heads off and the engine out of the vehicle.
It
is not possible to do the rear chain or sprocket with the engine in
the car as the flywheel needs to come off + at least 1 head, but it is
possible to do the front primary chain and or front cam chain with the
engine in the car.
You
will be a ford exploder and timing expert after you do this - the main
reason should be the love of your American built vehicle. Its a solid
car - except for the plastic guides!
Disclaimer
Note: This is how i successfully did the job, but i am not a ford
mechanic and don't hold me responsible if this does not work for you.
Timing Overview
A
Small Sprocket on the crank turns a larger (2 to 1 ratio) jackshaft
sprocket that is in turn connected front & back to the 2 camshafts.
Thus a 360o turn of the crank will turn both the camshafts 180o.
Firing order is 1-4 2-5 3-6, Right side numbers 1,2,3. Left Side = 4,5,6.
At TDC pistons 1 & 5 are fully raised, thus 1 is about to spark & 5 is evacuated.
The
engine will turn freely (no piston to valve contact) with the cams
180o out, it will even run (roughly) with 1 out 180o, any other
settings may cause major damage to the valves.
The
2 cam shafts come with timing markings, "yes" real timing marks that
anyone can use (even without special tools) to ensure correct timing.
The way to time it is to ensure both the off centre cam shaft slits are level/flat with the head.
With
the engine at TDC both the cams need to have the off centre slot in
the same position either up and level or down and level.
It
is super critical that both the camshafts are 100% in sink with each
other, i.e. not a few degrees off, the engine computer can compensate
for crank timing but not engineering failure.
Be
warned the camshafts can turn easily fast & hard by themselves as a
few springs are compressed at TDC, I got my finger jammed and its
still healing + if the engine is not at TDC you may damage a valve.
Now
heres the hard thing that you will need special tools for - if you
need to change the timing, you will need to be able to undo the cam
sprocket bolt on both cams & these are done up real tight.
There
is a tool that you attach that has 2 pencil thick shafts that fit into
the sprocket and prevent it from turning - then you need to put about
90Nm of force on the bolt (remember the rear one if LHT)
For
the $money$, its well worth getting yourself the tool kit - it will
save you hours in the long run. Search eBay for otc-6488 should be US
$119 - then sell them again for say $100.
There
is also a tool version of the oil tensioner in the kit that screws
right in and puts the correct amount of force on the chain + guide, to
enable you to do up the cam bolt with the chain and sprocket in the
right spot on the cam.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
SOHC Engine
See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4
Fig. Fig. 1: At 90 degrees past TDC, the crankshaft sprocket timing mark and keyway will align with the main bearing cap split line
Fig. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the timing chain and sprocket assembly-SOHC engine
Fig. Fig. 3: Insert the timing pin to ensure that the camshaft is at No. 1 TDC-SOHC engine
Fig. Fig. 4: When the camshaft is at TDC, rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise 90 degrees to achieve TDC
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B230F
I NEEDED THE FLYWHEEL TIMING (OF THE FLYWHEEL) NOT BELT TIMING THANKS FOR TRYING I USED PHONE A FRIEND AND GOT MY ANSWERS THANK AGAIN
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