The hose that goes to my resevoir cracked when the weather got really cold. I am almost certain air found its way into the system as the end result. All I need to know is where the bleeder is located on the car. It is a 1985 VW Quantum Custom GL Sedan. Soon as I topped off the Dot 3 brake fluid the clutch gets pressure when pumped but finds its way to the floor again when fully depressed.

every possibility that the stop leak increased the viscosity and the leaking hose could not handle the extra pressure in cold weather
Additives are really a waste of time as it is a stop measure that could have cost you a life when calling into a steering shop would have taken 1 hour and fixed the problem

I'm sorry you have had such bad experiences with the shops.
I would have stopped at the second one and forced them to fix it at their cost.
I doubt you will be able to find the problem yourself, but I understand your hesitation to go back to another mechanic.
I will be happy to try to walk you thru the diagnostic process but it may take a few days.
First, do you know if the system is full of freon ?
If it is full, do you know if the compressor is running when the ac is switched on ?
The first shop should have discovered the blown fuse once they charged the system unless it took a day or two for the fuse to blow. The second shop that put the compressor on should have found the faulty fan, and the leaking hose if it is in fact leaking.
So should have the third shop.
If the compressor was faulty, and the system had been empty for a time, the hose could have started leaking once the system was being used. The pressure on the high side is over 200psi when the compressor is running.
Let me know where you want to start with the diagnosis after you answer my questions.

The A.I.R. (Air Injection Reaction) System was included on California-emission equipped vehicles. The system is designed to provide additional oxygen to continue the combustion process after the exhaust gases leave the combustion chamber. The system begins with the outside air inlet, which is a short, L-shaped open-ended rubber hose running from the lower front passenger fender well into the canister. The black plastic round canister is located in the front passenger-side engine compartment, adjacent to the EECS (Evaporative Emission Control System) canister, which looks similiar, but the EECS canister has electrical connectors on the top. While the charcoal canister of the EECS is a sealed unit, the A.I.R. canister has a twist-off lid to access the disposable filter. The inlet hose goes into the canister, air then passes through the charcoal filter, and travels into the outlet hose (also made of black rubber), which then connects directly to a metal tube coming up the front of the engine. Please contact me if you need a diagram or photos.

First check the error codes. they can be a lifesaver. Physically look under the hood for cracked or leaky vaccuum hoses. High idling often indicates a vaccuum leak somewhere. look at the vaccuum elbows on both the right and left side of the engine just about midway down the engine from front to back on the plenum- that's the big, black flat assy that channels the air as it goes into the engine.
Once again the codes can tell us alot.

Always find the source first, The rear water ports are directly behind the rear lower intake bolts and the front ports are directly in front of the front bolts. The rear ports are cast into the lower intake manifold and are dead ends, air can get trapped in that area. In cold weather your thermostat may open slower, resulting in a pressure build up at the rear ports. Any trapped air will compress. Normal coolant system pressure occurs when the glycol is operating temperature. I would try refilling the system and getting the air out,the leak may only occur when the system is full. With a cold engine, open the radiator cap and add 50/50 mix, fill the resevoir to the low mark. Run the engine with the radiator cap off until the thermostat opens, the upper hose will be hot when the stat opens. Turn the car off and refill the radiator to the top. Sqeeze the upper hose to remove any air. fill if necessary. replace cap, run car again until it reaches operating temp. Now with a full system check for leaks. When replacing lost coolant should also have the heat at max temp. Get a good mirror to check for leaks. The outter mating surface of the rear water jacket gasket is flush with the block and the edge of the lower manifold, sometimes you can see where it blew out.

the rubber is the best deal and its cheap with the heat and weather it breaks down fast a hose clamp will keep it there even if it breaks though you could try it and see how it goes stick with the hose clamps

It could be the hose. Unless your car has ever been hit on that side, the reservoir usually outlasts the hoses.
You can easily test the hose. Unclamp it from the reservoir bottle when the coolant is not hot, plug the end with your finger and hold the hose down lower than the other end that is attached to the radiator fill neck. Look for leaks.

To check for cracks in the reservoir, it's easiest to place a flashlight inside the bottle top and look at the outside of the bottle...if liquid can get out then light can too.

Hi if your car runs fine from cold and starts fine when cold, but then if it starts playing up when it gets to near running normal temp then this is a good indication that the oxygen sensor is up the shoot and will need replacing.
the reason it points towards this being the fault is that the oxygen sensor only starts to work when it reaches a certain temp so if your car runs fine when cold but plays up when hot or warm then the chances are getting the oxygen sensor (or lambda sensor for its proper name) changed should then solve your problem.

let me know how you get on or if you need further assistance ok

The hose you are talking about might be a vacuum hose. A vacuum hose usually connects from somewhere near the air filter like on the intake manifold and to the brake assist device. If the tube is rubber and can be disconnected at the brake you can check to see if that is what it is by placing your thumb over the open end instead of the brake assist while the engine is idleing. If it is a vacuum hose then you will be able to feel the suction of the intake system. With the vacuum hose open to the air the engine will probably idle poorly. I hope this helps.

There are two likely possibilities: 1) Old/cracked Ignition system (spark) is being shorted out by water/humidity, 2) Carburetor icing.

1) This test is more effective if done at nighttime or in a darkened garage, as any spark arcing will be visible. Start the engine and let it idle. Use a spray bottle with water and mist your spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, and ignition coil with water. If you see spark arcing or the engine starts to run rough or stall, there's your problem, replace the ignition component(s) involved.

2) If your problem only occurs during cold moist rainy weather (ie. 45 degrees or below), especially if it only happens during highway driving, you could have carburetor icing. There is a hose that runs from the exhaust manifold shield to the underside of the air cleaner housing. In colder weather a valve will draw heated air from around the exhaust manifold through this hose into the air cleaner to prevent icing. Either this hose is missing/disconnected or this valve is not working correctly.

Hope this helps!