Rear brakes Having trouble removing brake drums,any suggestions appreciated.

You are right to think they are self adjust under normal circumstances. You seem to have a good knowledge of how they work etc so I'm going to suggest you retrace your steps and make sure the self adjust mech in the brake is correctly set. You should not need to alter the E brake cables, make sure the E brake is fully OFF when you set the shoes. You are on the right lines so just retrace your steps. You should be able to fit the drums and set the shoes with a couple of pumps of the pedal and a couple of pulls / presses of the E brake.
If you are having trouble fitting the drums get an abrasive flapper wheel on an electric drill and remove the rusty shoulder that builds up on the drum edge. This may be where your excess clearance is coming from because you can't get the drum passed the shoes easily.
You say the E brake no longer works, has a cable become detached from 1 drum?

My first question would be have you taken the drums off and looked at the brake shoes yet ?
You won't know whats going on until you do.
It could be worn out shoes, or a broken spring rubbing the drum, or any number of things.

use the Autel MaxiScan MS609 OBDII/EOBD ABS antilock brake trouble Scan Tool ,maybe can find the trouble of your brake drums .

yes, because the master cylinder should let out equal pressure to both the back breaks. somthing might be causing the break to clamp harder than the other.

This vehical has drum styal park brake shoes on the inside of the brake rotor so make sure the park brake isn't set and you can turn the rotor. If you can't turn the rotor you will have to look into this first if the park brake is set or sticking you won't get the rotor off if thats ok try spray with penting oil helps a little. I use a 4 or 5 lb sluge hammer and hit the rotor kinds close to the wheel studs about 5 times then hit the outer edge from the back side also works on the outerside. Don't be afread to hit hard I never broke one.

the first thing to do is to slacken the handbrake adjuster on the lever off completely.then if you have rear drum brakes remove the drums and make sure that the handbrake levers on the shoes are not siezed and are returning to the stops plus that the auto adjusters are not siezed if not free them off so they are using wd40 or whatever and the linings/drums are ok then reasemble and pump the brake pedal a few times to let the auto adjusters work then readjust the lever to about 5 to 7 clicks if you have got rear discs then one off the rear calipers may have siezed or both handbrake cables should also be checked for being siezed

You're probably fighting the "lip" of the drum. Take a small ball peen hammer and tap one side while you gently pry the other and switch sides after a few seconds. You do stand the chance of breaking the hold down springs, that's ok. They are cheap to replace and they come in kits which cover both sides(usually).

i am assuming you are talking about drum brakes. and the drum is not coming off easily. as the drums wear they do not ride on the very outside which will cause a ridge to form and make it hard to remove them you just have to pry them off but pry evenly on two sides opposite of each other at the same time

help is here:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

Drum Removal

1. Remove the rear wheel and the tire assembly. Refer to Section 204-04 .

1. Retract the brake shoes and loosen the brake adjuster screw.

1. Remove the brake drum.

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May require big hammer to loosen drum from axle flange. Hit between the the lugs, not on them.

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#10 is access plug to back off adjusting wheel.


Item Part Number Description 1 2261 Rear wheel cylinder 2 — Dust boot (part of 2128) 3 2197 Wheel cylinder piston (part of 2261) 4 — Cup (part of 2128) 5 2204 Wheel cylinder piston cup spring (part of 2128) 6 — Wheel cylinder housing (part of 2261) 7 — Brake shoe hold-down pin 8 — Access hole (part of 2212) 9 — Rear brake bleeder screw (part of 2261) 10 — Access hole plug 11 — Rear wheel cylinder bolt 12 2212 Rear brake backing plate 13 — Rear brake backing plate bolts 14 2N790 Parking brake lever clip 15 — Spring washer 16 — Secondary brake shoe and lining (part of 2200) 17 — Brake shoe hold-down spring (part of 2B514) 18 — Lower retracting spring (part of 2B514) 19 2A637 Parking brake lever 20 — Parking brake lever pin 21 2A177 Brake shoe adjusting lever 22 — Adjuster lever pin (part of 2A177) 23 — Primary brake shoe and lining (part of 2200) 24 — Upper retracting spring (part of 2B514) 25 2041 Brake adjuster screw

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Shoes Removal

Take a picture and remember how each part goes and attaches

1. Remove the brake drum, refer to Drum in this section.

1. Remove the upper retracting spring.

1. Remove the lower retracting spring.

1. Remove the self-adjuster.

1. Remove the hold-down springs.

1. Remove the parking brake lever clip and the parking brake lever.

Sounds like the master cylinder isn't releasing pressure after you remove your foot... Usually the calipers hang up, but you replaced them so...replace the master cylinder and bleed the brakes