Engine idol knocking noise stalls while holding on footbrake

Rule of thumb test for all torque converters is the stall test. assuming the transmission and engine is in good condition and thoroughly warmed, select drive and apply the footbrake hard and attempt to drive away.

No matter how far you press the loud pedal the engine revs shouldn't rise above the stated stall speed for that make and model of car which is generally around (from a very distant memory) 2400/2800 rpm.

If the maximum rpm is higher than specified the torque converter is suspect and if lower it is probable the engine power output is low.

All other testing is specialised.

No driving will only further damage the parts that are bad and could damage other parts making it even more costly. and it sounds like tranmission problem.

Air inlet or outlet may be clogged, check air filter and catalytic converter, as possibles!

Based on the information provided, it sounds like a bad TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). The TPS controls your idling speed under all conditions. When a TPS goes bad, you will usually notice the vehicle will idle when the engine is cold but once warm or with the AC on, it will sputter or stall.

very open question but its usually the idol control sensor. its attached to a cable usually open in the engine compartment. pulling this cable which goes back into the firewall will rev the engine. once you find the cable, find the bolt that attaches to the cable and tighten the cable, this will ajust at what RPM the car idols at and keep it from stalling when you let off the gas.

NO, it sounds more terminal than that, if you have a knocking sound or noise coming from your engine it could be a few different things, 1. big end bearing, need to rebuild bottom end of engine this is the main one, best get it to a mechanic to clarify the problem for you

sounds like a faulty tbi or the vechiale is in limp mode do a code check and look up code on yahoo

Hi I'm litoshop if your getting a knocking noise and it's coming from the bottom of the engine then you have a serious problem you may need to over haul the engine the more you drive it the more chance you have in breaking the engine my suggestion is not to drive it get it to a mechanic sorry bad news but your in time to salvage your original engine good luck. if this information has been helpful please let us know thank you

Here are some of the causes of surges, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake

This could be at engine due to 1) poor gas octane 2) hot engine
for gas try super unleaded and test. keep an eye on temperature also which should be normal