I cannot find my ignition module - 1991 Chevrolet Lumina

Starter switch ? You do mean ignition switch , the thing on the dash or steering column that you stick the key in ! You car not starting ? The ignition switch isn't the same anymore , sends Discrete Ignition Signals to a module ,in the case of your vehicle it is the DIM - dash integrated module.
The body control system consists of the following 3 modules:
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The dash integration module (DIM)

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The instrument panel integration module (IPM)

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The rear integration module (RIM)

Each of the 3 body control modules integrate a number of functional systems under the control of a single module. Each of the modules are connected to the Class 2 serial data line; many control signals are implemented by Class 2 messages.
On vehicles that have several control modules connected by serial data circuits, one module is the power mode master (PMM). On this vehicle the PMM is the DIM. The PMM receives 4 signals from the ignition switch.
To determine the correct power mode the PMM uses the following circuits:
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Accessory voltage

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Ignition 1 voltage

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Ignition 3 voltage

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Off/Run/Crank voltage

Your best bet would be to take to a repair shop that has knowledge of this type system . You probably don't need an ignition switch.
Discrete Ignition Signals Those modules that have discrete ignition signal inputs also remain in the state dictated by the last valid PMM message received on the serial data circuits. They then check the state of their discrete ignition input to determine the current valid state. If the discrete ignition input is active, battery positive voltage, the modules will fail-safe to the RUN power mode. If the discrete ignition input is not active, open or 0 voltage, the modules will fail-safe to OFF-AWAKE. In this state the modules are constantly checking for a change status message on the serial data circuits and can respond to both local inputs and serial data inputs from other modules on the vehicle.

Ignition Coils/Modules
The electronic ignition system uses an individual ignition coil for each cylinder. There are two separate ignition module assemblies located in the camshaft cover of each cylinder bank. Each ignition module assembly contains an ignition control module and four ignition coils. Each ignition coil connects directly to a spark plug using a boot. This arrangement eliminates the need for secondary ignition wires. The ignition module assemblies receive power from a fused ignition feed. Both ignition module assemblies connect to chassis ground. A Reference Low and four ignition control (IC) circuits connect each ignition module assembly to the PCM. The PCM uses the individual IC circuits to control coil sequencing and spark timing for each ignition coil. The IC circuits transmit timing pulses from the PCM to the ignition control module to trigger the ignition coil and fire the spark plug. The PCM controls ignition system sequencing and timing events

Ignition module. What type of vehicle????

Ignition "modulator"??? I assume you mean "ignition module" or "Ignition control module". If this is what you mean, it is mounted on the ignition coil assembly. Toyota refers to this part as "transistorized ignitor".

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

The same principal applies to HEI (High Energy Ignition) ignition systems with the ignition coil mounted in the top of the distributor cap.

That is the classical sign of a control module over-heating or an electric fuel pump that is faulty.

The ignition module located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil. A faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

That is the classic symptom of an electronic component overheating, and it could be a problem with the fuel pump, the ignition module inside of the distributor could be faulty, or the ECM (Engine Control Module) could be faulty, and the ECM's that were manufactured back then were prone to faults, and that is also why they can be purchased for only around $70.00 at most auto part stores.

The ignition module located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil. A faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

That sounds like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module.

That problem is most likely the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove it and have it tested for free at most auto part stores.

The ignition module could also have been damaged by a faulty ignition coil or a damaged distributor cap that allowed secondary voltage to flow over the ignition module, or a shorted pick-up coil inside of the distributor could also have caused the ignition module to malfunction, and in that case you should replace the distributor. (if the ignition module does test out to be alright then the pick-up coil is the next likely culprit)

Be sure that if you purchase a new ignition module that it does come with either a silicone grease, or a die-electric compound, and be very certain that you completely cover the metal mounting contact area under the ignition module with that silicone grease or die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will overheat without it, and be very careful that you do not over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

Be sure that you also clean off the mounting surface for the ignition module on the inside of the distributor very well before you install the ignition module, and if installing the old module back into the distributor be sure to obtain either silicone grease or a die-electric compound for it.

1. Easy job and should have no problems here some help
   Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Detach the engine control sensor wiring connector from the ignition control module by pressing down on the locking tab where it is stamped PUSH, and remove the connector.
3. Remove the ignition module and the module bracket from the front fender apron.
4. Unfasten the two ignition module retaining screws, then remove the ignition module form the module bracket.

To install:


Fig. Fig. 2: The ignition module on 1994-95 vehicles is mounted on the front fender apron

1. Install the ignition module onto the module bracket. Tighten the retaining screws to 24-33 inch lbs. (2.7-3.7 Nm).
2. Position the ignition module and bracket assembly onto the front fender apron. Secure with the retaining bolt and tighten to 35-50 inch lbs. (4-5.6 Nm).
3. Attach the engine control sensor wiring connector to the ignition module.
4. Connect the negative battery cable.