I haven't been driving my car for over a year, because when i drive it for maybe over 20 minutes it just shuts off and won't start for a while maybe from 15 minutes to 10 hours. So i get stranded alot, it doesn't over heat the gauge doesn't say it, new battery, changed fuel pump, HELP ME PLEASE, I hate taking the bus in the desert.
My daughters car did the exact same thing. Lights and all. I replaced the pump twice and both relays (auto shut down and fuel pump relay). Very frustrating indeed.
The 1994 recall (see below) is right on! Right behind the engine block intake (the long aluminum block on top) is a tie rod that connects from the rack and pinion to the wheel. On top of the tie rod is a bundle of wires that are wrapped in cloth style tape, just resting on the rod. As the vehicle is driven, the steering rod will rub the wires (as the wheels are turned) thus causing a possible short. My daughters was. I used liquid tape, wrapped in tape and used zip ties to lift off the rod. I have driven it alot and have not had an incident yet!
FEB 08, 1994 | Recall ID# 12389 Hide Details
Recall Reason ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:WIRING
Recall Date FEB 08, 1994
Model Affected INTREPID
Potential Units Affected 110000
Recall Summary
THE RIGHT STEERING TIE ROD CAN RUB THROUGH THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION WIRING HARNESS CAUSING A SHORT CIRCUIT WHICH RESULTS IN ELECTRICAL SYSTEM MALFUNCTIONS INCLUDING ENGINE STALLING AND AN INOPERATIVE PARK/STARTER INTERLOCK SYSTEM.
Consequence
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM MALFUNCTION CAUSING STALLING WHILE IN MOTION OR AN INOPERATIVE PARK/STARTER INTERLOCK SYSTEM, WHICH ALLOWS ENGINE START WHILE THE TRANSMISSION IS NOT IN THE PARK POSITION, MAY RESULT IN AN ACCIDENT.
Remedy (see above)
INSTALL A REVISED WIRING HARNESS BRACKET AND A PLASTIC CONVOLUTED SLEEVE TO PROTECT THE TRANSMISSION WIRING HARNESS.
Notes
CHRYSLER CORPORATION
Seems many of these vehicles have the same problems with stalling and rough running.
I read a service paper on the subject which indicated that the wiring harness going to the transmission on the rear of the engine rubs on the steering shaft coming from the wheel to the rack or steering box on these chrysler vehicles.
The problems usually cause error codes from crank position sensor or cam position sensor because these are the signals affected by this problem in that harness.
Apparently they rub at that point near the steering shaft and a few other places also causing shorting and also open circuit conditions.
The schematics of the engine computer show wires going directly from the computer to the sensors and also an 8 volt supply that feeds these sensors. The crank position sensor also feeds its signal to the transmission control module which is shown in the schematic and this wire is in that harness to the transmission on the rear of the engine in the vehicle.
There are many points where these circuits are vulnerable and you need to hunt for them on your specific car... but rest assured, if you are getting CMP and CKP codes from your car when it shuts down on you... bet your money on this circuit I am describing and the components which make it up as the culprit.
I will post some diagrams and docs when I have them in hand. I have read them but was unable to take them with me in hard copy. Thanks
Cmp = cam position ckp = crank position obviously as you stated these are replaced you need to get a ohm meter and start checking wires as they are broken and having intermittent contact inside the shielding or have been worn through somewhere in it's length.
I have a '99 Dodge Intrepid and it won't start after you drive it. If your driving it, it won't stop, just when you park it and shut it off. Then it won't start.
Sounds like an ignition module or ignition problem,possibly crank position sensor.It needs to be scanned for trouble codes,and diagnose the codes.
I am having some trouble, My car does not die, but one day I was driving and the speedometer went all the way around past the 120 mark and stayed there. About a week later I was going down the high way and the speedometer went crazy. The next time I started the car to drive, the speedometer jumped to 70 and the odometer was also turning all while I'm in park, I was told it was the speed sensors so today I went and got the senors and while installing them I found that the sensor wires were burnt and bare, wrapped around each other, seperated them and it runs great, now to find the harness for this car. So check the wires before you go buy senors i'd say.
Check,change starter and alternator, crankshaft sensor if not first. the cam sensor will also do it. I also have 93 Dodge Grand Caravan SE, did the same thing. Had to change MAP sensor and TPS.
Change them belts or just tighten up.
Check,change starter and alternator.Had to change crankshaft sensor, the cam sens. will do it too.I also have a 93 Dodge Grand Caravan SE that did the same thing to me. Change the TPS and MAP sens. The BELTS should be checked, changed and or tighten. The PCV valves should not be forgotten! MAJOR TUNE UP, doesn\'t need to be done all at once.
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1995 intrepid car shuts off after 5 to 10 minutes of driving tach goes to zero oil lite & cruise lite come on will not start up unless your cycle the key to off in town, going down the highway it bucks 1 time and continues on its way obd scanner says crank and cam sensor are ok there are no codes fuel pressure test confirms ok. this started after the trans was rebuilt and the fuel pump was replaced
I have a 1995 Intrepid 3.3L, having similar problem. I just purchased the car for $300, it ran fine for one day, then when i got up the next day, it ran for about 5 minutes, died, started and died a few more times (it got me back home) then died and now it won't start. I have replaced the ignition coil, cam sensor, crank sensor, plugs, plug wires. it is flashing the codes 1277 and 5455 now. I don't know what that means, but i need my car fixed.
when i drive it for maybe over 20 minutes it just shuts off and won't start for a while about from 15 minutes to 2 hours. Have a check engine lite on. So I bought a code reader and all it tells me is code P1391 which is Intermittent Loss of CMP or CKP what is CMP and CKP.
I have exact same problem with 1995 Intrepid with 290,000 km. The car just lost the power with few jerks and thuds. No power, no dashboard lights, all gauges to zero. Replaced the battery, cables etc. Alternator is fine. It ran great for a month but again died on Hwy in the same manner. The dealer can's find the problem. Engine cranks well even in -21C. I am afraid to drive anymore.
I have a 1996 Dodge Intrepid ES 3.5
I have changed the ignition coil, crankshaft sensor, and camshaft sensor. I am having all the same problems as described but now the car just turns over but will not start. What do I replace next without playing the trial and error games. I hate that game. My engine light has not came on. I will check the wires tomorrow . But at this point I need help
95 dodge caravan that shuts down after a mile of driving new motor in it and it will start up in about 1 min.
prob. is fuel pump.something in tank sloshed around when serviced. seriously, n change filter while at it, its probably part of the pump and may include fuel level
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